HELP PLEASE!!!

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 10:18 pm

ok so i found one of the brackets so i put it on, injectors are staying put now. i just need a new radiator so i stop loosing fluid. running a bit rough, but i can now say i completely and successfully rebuilt a engine. problem now is it idels a little high so i tightened the inake manifold, it helped a lot. now when i step on the gas it has a late response and when i rev it up it stays at 4000 rpm. i dont have the TPS (throttle position sensor) on the engine, think that might screw something up?

jidasas · Post by **jidasas** » Sun Jan 18, 2009 11:50 pm

did it originally have a tps...if so it will definately mess up your idle and how your engine revs

Jimmy

nubira88 · Post by **nubira88** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 6:34 am

You should not have lost anything and have everything tight before putting the car back together.... if you are getting water in your oil i think you have issues did you sequence the bolts corectly when you tightened the head down if not that can cause lumps and uneven sqaushing down of the compression gasket. read earlier that you had ticking noises from the timing area this should have sent alarm bells straight away when your car stopped. verry kool the way you have done your trunk lid

get your tps back on the car you should not be driving around with bits and peices missing off your car its unethical.... our engines commonly are hessitant to return to idle i read on a reveiw ( mine is a little slow I think ) so this in combine with a constant cell i imagine you are getting would cause your eractic engine behaviour.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 9:32 pm

ok went out and got the TPS and now it idels at about 800 rmp.. sometimes. lol. when i drive it to the end of the street and back it goes down to 2000 rpm for a little bit then slowly goes down to 800. it has a late response to the throttle still. and it feels like there isnt much power, would the timing be a problem for this? i think it might be off a tooth or so. it was good when i put it on, but people say after you start it up to check it again, so idk

nubira88 · Post by **nubira88** » Mon Jan 19, 2009 10:00 pm

kool 800rms is perfect as slow you mean sits at about 1800 for a second before returning to idle this i think is ok and a efi system trait we have (or my tps is on its way aswell) i think your injectors not being secure could cause some problems. your Tbelt not being inline would cause a weird idle and other symtons others may be able to describe i was stressing highly on this so myne was perfect or i wasnt putting it back together period. have you changed your oil and replaced the filter to check if you have oil to water problems you must change this as it can cause rusting of the cams and scratch and shorten the life of your engine internals if you still have probs id back the headbolts off again and go over the bolts in corect sequence... 15n.m for all the your 60 degrees for all and so on and on... pain in the ass lol folowing the sequence of tightening.. nice car btw your mods look kewl

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 8:36 am

well i mean when it ran, it would just go straight down to 1000 now it sits at like 2000 or higher and just sits there for a few seconds or so then slowly goes down, not normal to me. the fuel injectors are good now, found the mounting brackets. it took me 3 hours on the timing belt to get it perfect. and for the head gasket. what the heck does the 60 degree thing mean it confused the hell out of me. i am a computer programmer not a mechanic. lol

jidasas · Post by **jidasas** » Tue Jan 20, 2009 5:27 pm

Idle air control valve could need cleaned...if it is moving slow then your engine will be slower to respond to you letting off the gas.

Jimmy

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:29 am

ok got it to idle smooth. now it squeals, think it is the alternator belt. needs to be a little looser? idk. the temp gauge on dash does not work, i remember a sensor on the engine under the intake, i think thats the temp one, the connector got broke, any way to make it work?

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 1:53 am

if the sensor is not broken you can just replace the connector in the wire with a female spade end
like one of these

the belt needs to be tighter if its squeeling

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:16 am

ok tightened up the belt, all is good now =] tomorrow or thursday i will put the car up on the ramps and see what i can do about the temp sensor.

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 10:43 am

your gonna need to take the alternator off to get to it, when i pout the engine in my car i missed the same sensor. trust me its easier if you get the alternator out of there.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 2:44 pm

and would this sensor cause the temp on the dash not to move?

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 3:59 pm

Yep. You'll find two coolant/engine temp sensors in the same area on the 1.6DOHC. The "m" is for dash indicator while the "n" is for ECU.

[img][img]http://img142.imageshack.us/img142/3377/sensorshh9.th.jpg[/img][/img]

drjdup · Post by **drjdup** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:41 pm

Was all this done (Replacing timing belt, pulling head) with the engine in car or was it pulled out...? I'm looking to replace my head gasket and timing belt and debating on whether or not I should do it myself or pay someone a boat load to do it... I have the 2000 Lanos 1.6 but it seems as like the timing belt jobs I've found have been done with the engine out of the car...

Big Jeff · Post by **Big Jeff** » Wed Jan 21, 2009 8:47 pm

the timing belt is normally done with the engine in the car