HELP PLEASE!!!

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:32 pm

ok that was my next question, are the piston heads, are the pretty much flat? on all 4 of them, they have notches on them where it looks like the valves are, here is a pic. i really hope i dont need to replace those too.

http://s33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/t ... 9_0001.jpg

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:34 pm

nevermind, found a picture

http://www244.pair.com/oldguys/P309b.jpg

those have the same things on them.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 7:47 pm

do i need a spring compressor to remove the valves?

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:03 pm

hey does anyone know how to remove the valves from the engine? i searched google and the only thing that came up was removing the valve cover.

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Sun Dec 28, 2008 8:29 pm

Google huh!
Better way is reading from service manual. Section 1C for DOHC. Here is a place where you can download it: http://rapidshare.com/files/107187870/L ... g.zip.html .
Some kind of valve spring compressor is helpful. Maybe you can make one.

nubira88 · Post by **nubira88** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 2:28 am

hey yeah you need a valve spring compressor with an attachment if you dont buy an exspensive one,,,, not worth it really attachments are cheap or a socket as i used with the sqaure drive ontop of the spring verry easy job dont loose your collets lap your seats and lube your shafts renew stem seals inspect guides... running low on oil wouldnt have caused this problem its been going on for a while i gues your auto tensioner is prolly shit itself and let the belt go tooth buy tooth and you would have had a few codes mab tps was out because of this? judging by the pics your valves have been running close to the pistopns fior ages .... lol told you so engines are stronger than what you think particuarly bottem ends good luck wit everything thanx daniel for the water pump help cheers

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 3:29 am

nubira88 wrote:running low on oil wouldnt have caused this problem its been going on for a while i gues your auto tensioner is prolly shit itself and let the belt go tooth buy tooth

With a timing belt slip most people end up bending most of the valves.... not just two exhaust valves on one cylinder.

That's the reason I'm not sold on this timing belt as the main cause.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 6:55 pm

is there marks on the cam shaft that tell me where to line up the gears? or does anyone know what they are to look like when lined up?

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Dec 29, 2008 10:16 pm

Sure that there are marks on intake and exhaust gears! And even on the crankshaft gear like on all well designed engines

.

Happy new year,

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 1:24 am

hey removed those valves today

they are bent, are they saposed to be? or are they saposed to be straight?

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/t ... 081721.jpg

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:12 am

Oh ya.... those are definitly screwed.... it's weird... they didn't seem that bent on the video.

Well.... I guess I was wrong.... must have been an issue with your timing belt after all.

Odds are if these look like this..... there are others that are bent as well... perhaps not as much.

If I were you........ I would replace all 16 of the valves just to be safe.

Now you have to figure out why the timing belt slipped..... could be the tensioner as one of the other guys said.... you'd be best off replacing the tensioner and waterpump all in one shot.

You also need new cylinder head bolts..... old ones have stretched so they shouldn't be used again.

Don't get me wrong... you can get away with using them but then you risk breaking bolts and having the gasket leak ( mixing oil and coolant making you do this all over again )

ARP makes bolt and stud kits.... I'm not 100% sure if they make them for the 1.6L..... I thought they did.... perhaps check with GSE_Turbo.... it's possible they might be nearly the same price as a set of factory bolts... hard to say.

buddha102 · Post by **buddha102** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 4:47 am

I remember my friends car, eagle taylon, had a broken timing belt and bend all the valves. He got lucky that he dint had to rework the head. He replaced all the parts: pistons, valves everything. Now its running like new. Took him like 2-3 months to finish it. (school, work, etc.)

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 8:17 am

Yeah, i think i got lucky that it didnt break, my pistons look fine. I will still be spending quite a bit of money to get this fixed

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-02-DA ... 4213wt_947

$73.27

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Tru ... 2284wt_974

$127.74

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Tru ... 3236wt_942

$113.27

total

$314.28

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:45 am

you should get your head checke for warpage too, just to be safe. if you have a straight edge and a set of feeler guages you can check it your self but if its warped you need to get it resurfaced

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Wed Dec 31, 2008 10:53 am

Does the ARP bolts have something special compared to OEM? Can you reuse them?

Happy new year,

The original daewootech forum

HELP PLEASE!!!

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