HELP PLEASE!!!
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ok guys took longer then thought, but finally got the car into the garage today, ok so now for what i have done so far.
pulled it into the garage
took the passenger front tire off
took splash shield off
Removed bolts to timing belt cover, felt tension on timing belt, a little loose, is that common? or should it be tight?
I can not get the cover off, do i need to remove the accessory belt and pulleys before i can get to the timing belt?
pulled it into the garage
took the passenger front tire off
took splash shield off
Removed bolts to timing belt cover, felt tension on timing belt, a little loose, is that common? or should it be tight?
I can not get the cover off, do i need to remove the accessory belt and pulleys before i can get to the timing belt?
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sheepdizildawg,
Now that the upper cover is removed you can check the t-belt tension by looking at the pointer of the tensioner. If this pointer is on the left of the backplate pointer t-belt is under tensioned.
Altought if the position is correct, you "may" have had slipped t-belt.
This post from the "how-to" section helped me alot: http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... t=camshaft . Specialy about the "starter method" . Just be certain to disconnect ignition.
Daniel
Now that the upper cover is removed you can check the t-belt tension by looking at the pointer of the tensioner. If this pointer is on the left of the backplate pointer t-belt is under tensioned.
Altought if the position is correct, you "may" have had slipped t-belt.
This post from the "how-to" section helped me alot: http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... t=camshaft . Specialy about the "starter method" . Just be certain to disconnect ignition.
Daniel
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hey i was at work tonight and i got to thinking, when i got my car home, i noticed there wasnt much left in the coolant tank, and i looked down and thought it was the radiator, the next day i filled the radiator and the coolant stayed in there, no leaks, ok, so no coolant and no compression in 2 cylinders right next to eachother, is it me or does it sound like a head gasket?
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If you have no compression then that's a huge hole in the cylinder head gasket..... I suppose that makes sense as to why it's going nowhere fast... you probably have coolant in your cylinders and in the oil...... then again it could also be a big crack or hole in cylinder head between chambers..... either way the head has to come off.
As far as how to on the cylinder head gasket..... remove the head making sure to follow the bolt pattern.... lift off the old gasket.... clean up any debris making sure it doesn't get into any of the channels or the cylinders ( use a shop vac while removing material.... keep it close so it sucks it up )...... replace the gasket.... drop the head down.... tighten in sequence (see specs or how to ) with new head bolts.
Once you have the head off you will know if it's the gasket or head..... there will be residue where it's leaking.
Personally..... I think it's likely to be a damaged cylinder head because you have two things
If you had low compression but not oil or coolant I'd say the cylinder head gasket is blown right where the two cylinders almost touch ( very close... just a few mm )
If you just had oil/coolant mixing and loss then I'd say the cylinder head gasket is leaking near the coolant and oil channels.
But in your case you have both..... and since those two spots are about 2.5" to 3" away from each other it doesn't make sense that the gasket failed in multiple places.
To me.... it means a crack in the cylinder head.... oil and coolant mix in the head where the crack is and compression is lost from one cylinder to the other through the crack.
Don't get me wrong.... it could be just the gasket..... but it's definitly sounding like a fairly major failure in multiple areas of the cylinder head.
As far as how to on the cylinder head gasket..... remove the head making sure to follow the bolt pattern.... lift off the old gasket.... clean up any debris making sure it doesn't get into any of the channels or the cylinders ( use a shop vac while removing material.... keep it close so it sucks it up )...... replace the gasket.... drop the head down.... tighten in sequence (see specs or how to ) with new head bolts.
Once you have the head off you will know if it's the gasket or head..... there will be residue where it's leaking.
Personally..... I think it's likely to be a damaged cylinder head because you have two things
If you had low compression but not oil or coolant I'd say the cylinder head gasket is blown right where the two cylinders almost touch ( very close... just a few mm )
If you just had oil/coolant mixing and loss then I'd say the cylinder head gasket is leaking near the coolant and oil channels.
But in your case you have both..... and since those two spots are about 2.5" to 3" away from each other it doesn't make sense that the gasket failed in multiple places.
To me.... it means a crack in the cylinder head.... oil and coolant mix in the head where the crack is and compression is lost from one cylinder to the other through the crack.
Don't get me wrong.... it could be just the gasket..... but it's definitly sounding like a fairly major failure in multiple areas of the cylinder head.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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Yes..... and no...... you may be jumping the gun by buying a new cylinder head..... you won't know what the damage is until you get the cylinder head off.
The price isn't bad.... but on the other hand you might be able to find an entire engine for that price.
Believe it or not replacing the whole engine is quicker than screwing around with removing the head and reassembling it.
Plus there are no "core" charges if you buy an engine like there is with this cylinder head.
Odds are they will want some amount of extra money ( say $125 ) they will charge this when you buy it.... so you will have to give them $500
Then if you send your old cylinder head back to them ( at your cost ) they will refund the $125
The problem is that a cylinder head is not exactly light..... so it can cost you a bit to get the new one shipped to you and then even more to ship your old one back.
Honestly..... I bet you can find yourself a complete engine for $500 and then sell this one for $150
The price isn't bad.... but on the other hand you might be able to find an entire engine for that price.
Believe it or not replacing the whole engine is quicker than screwing around with removing the head and reassembling it.
Plus there are no "core" charges if you buy an engine like there is with this cylinder head.
Odds are they will want some amount of extra money ( say $125 ) they will charge this when you buy it.... so you will have to give them $500
Then if you send your old cylinder head back to them ( at your cost ) they will refund the $125
The problem is that a cylinder head is not exactly light..... so it can cost you a bit to get the new one shipped to you and then even more to ship your old one back.
Honestly..... I bet you can find yourself a complete engine for $500 and then sell this one for $150
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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yeah thats what i was thinking, my problem is no one around here has a daewoo, i go to any junk yard and they have the stuff shipped from a different state to here, i found someone on craigslist, a junkyard, saying they have daewoo stuff, maybe i will give them a call tomorrow. any other engine that would fit into the woo without modification?
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just got the valve cover off just a sec ago and the oil does not look mirky, i think i just happen to loose the coolant when there was pressure to the system, no pressure the coolant just went past the hole not seeing it, my moms boyfriend told me that may not be the case.
He said it could have been pumping the coolant out of the exhaust pipe, is this true?? i will be removing the head tonight hopefully.
He said it could have been pumping the coolant out of the exhaust pipe, is this true?? i will be removing the head tonight hopefully.
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sorry i had been outside in the 30 degree weather and tired as no other, not distributer, the coil pack. hah. ok i will take the intake manifold off too
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-02-DA ... 4213wt_947
is that a good deal for the bolts and gaskets?? its 12.51 for shipping to my house.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/99-02-DA ... 4213wt_947
is that a good deal for the bolts and gaskets?? its 12.51 for shipping to my house.
You can't make a good job in a hurry. Take your time. First, try to get this head off to see what's wrong before ordering anything. So you will know for sure what you need to order. And it will maybe be cheaper to buy a complete second hand engine than changing all needed parts.
BTW 60USD looks pretty good to me for this gaskets & bolts kit.
I've read in the Lanos service manual that you don't have to remove exhaust/intake manifold in order to remove head. If you don't have the manual yet you can download it from the FAQ section, http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5085 . Look then under DOHC Engine Mechanical section.
Daniel,
BTW 60USD looks pretty good to me for this gaskets & bolts kit.
I've read in the Lanos service manual that you don't have to remove exhaust/intake manifold in order to remove head. If you don't have the manual yet you can download it from the FAQ section, http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=5085 . Look then under DOHC Engine Mechanical section.
Daniel,