HELP PLEASE!!!
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
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well i know what belts they are. the accessories belt is down below, the timing belt is behind or inside if you will the cover on the engine, i have taken the plastic part off the valve cover so i can put my finger in the side and feel the timing belt. its still tight, its the first thing i checked, i am a full time high school student but i also work a full time job which is why i need to get this fixed, it has been snowing the last 2 days here in washington so i need something to drive, the corvette has been parked in the garage for the winter, not that great to drive in rain let alone snow. hah. if i take the valve cover off, can i tell if anything is wrong from there? or do i need to take it all apart? i really dont have a choice in this matter, either way, i need to get this fixed so i can sell it or drive it, either one.
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Taking off the valve cover probably won't do much to help diagnose things if indeed the timing belt is still funcitonal.
If the belt was broken... then yes... removing the valve cover might be something you could do to see what thing look like.
At this point I have to wonder if perhaps the compression test you did was correctly done ( malfunctioning gauge.... or perhaps slightly wrong procedure )
Did you do it with two people?
I ask this because if you did it yourself and the gauge is crappy it will leak out the pressure before you get to it.
The ideal thing to do is stand there and watch the gauge as someone else cranks the engine.
I still keep coming back to the one single error code you have..... the throttle position sensor......... if it's damaged then it still needs to be replaced.
My personal opinion.... find a cheap TPS and start there..... do another compression test if the TPS replacement doesn't work.
If the belt was broken... then yes... removing the valve cover might be something you could do to see what thing look like.
At this point I have to wonder if perhaps the compression test you did was correctly done ( malfunctioning gauge.... or perhaps slightly wrong procedure )
Did you do it with two people?
I ask this because if you did it yourself and the gauge is crappy it will leak out the pressure before you get to it.
The ideal thing to do is stand there and watch the gauge as someone else cranks the engine.
I still keep coming back to the one single error code you have..... the throttle position sensor......... if it's damaged then it still needs to be replaced.
My personal opinion.... find a cheap TPS and start there..... do another compression test if the TPS replacement doesn't work.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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i bought a TPS at autozone for $40 and it didn't change anything so i took it back because i don't have money to be wasting right now, i understand thats not wasting it, but it has been giving me a code for some time now. I guess i can try the compression test again with someone else to help me, will have to be a few days as i am home alone during the day so will have to wait till a day off work. hmmmm
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Ok good, glad to hear you tried the TPS.
Hmmm..... another thing that could be an issue is a blocked catalytic converter ( thought about this from another post going on right now )
You could unbolt the exhaust manifold and move it back 3/8" ..... just enough to give the engine a chance to breath while keeping the nuts on the studs
A blocked catalytic converter can create a non-starting issue at any time.... if your exhaust has nowhere to go it stays in the cylinder making it very hard for new air to get in.
This would be a major problem in the cold.
It's a simple thing to try.... should take like 5 minutes.
What do the spark plugs look like?
Are they dark black or are they a lighter brown?
Do they have any pitting on the electrodes ( you can take a picture if you want.... or look up "spark plug color" in Google and it should give you examples of good plugs and bad plugs )
Anyways...... give the exhaust thing a try just to be sure..... as well.....if you turn the engine by hand ( ratchet on the main crankshaft pulley bolt ) you should hear each cylinder make a PSSSST sound as the compressed air inside the cylinder exits.
Alternatively remove the plug to the ignition coil and have someone crank the engine for you while you listen.
Just make sure you unplug the ignition coil just in case it does catch.... as you could get a good sized fireball from one cylinder if unburned fuel gets a spark at just the right time.
Hmmm..... another thing that could be an issue is a blocked catalytic converter ( thought about this from another post going on right now )
You could unbolt the exhaust manifold and move it back 3/8" ..... just enough to give the engine a chance to breath while keeping the nuts on the studs
A blocked catalytic converter can create a non-starting issue at any time.... if your exhaust has nowhere to go it stays in the cylinder making it very hard for new air to get in.
This would be a major problem in the cold.
It's a simple thing to try.... should take like 5 minutes.
What do the spark plugs look like?
Are they dark black or are they a lighter brown?
Do they have any pitting on the electrodes ( you can take a picture if you want.... or look up "spark plug color" in Google and it should give you examples of good plugs and bad plugs )
Anyways...... give the exhaust thing a try just to be sure..... as well.....if you turn the engine by hand ( ratchet on the main crankshaft pulley bolt ) you should hear each cylinder make a PSSSST sound as the compressed air inside the cylinder exits.
Alternatively remove the plug to the ignition coil and have someone crank the engine for you while you listen.
Just make sure you unplug the ignition coil just in case it does catch.... as you could get a good sized fireball from one cylinder if unburned fuel gets a spark at just the right time.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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Which one did you remove?
The first one right under the manifold is a coarse grate.... more for creating quick heat up and consistent temperatures ..... the other under the driver's seat is the real catalytic converter.
The first one right under the manifold is a coarse grate.... more for creating quick heat up and consistent temperatures ..... the other under the driver's seat is the real catalytic converter.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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re
hey sheepzy, just checking earlier that you are looking at the right belt...i have been members of forums like this in the past with all different cars i have had and its hard to diagnose a problem without being there 1st hand... go to the how to section 1.6 tbelt replacement and check your timing marks your top two face each other (your cams) and the bottem the key way should point straight up to the sky as it be lol.. just check those then crank the donk and check every toothe on the tbelt well as best you can... if your marks are good its somthin else but a good point to startas you have no compresshhhh let us know how you go
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Re: re
thats a great idea!nubira88 wrote:hey sheepzy, just checking earlier that you are looking at the right belt...i have been members of forums like this in the past with all different cars i have had and its hard to diagnose a problem without being there 1st hand... go to the how to section 1.6 tbelt replacement and check your timing marks your top two face each other (your cams) and the bottem the key way should point straight up to the sky as it be lol.. just check those then crank the donk and check every toothe on the tbelt well as best you can... if your marks are good its somthin else but a good point to startas you have no compresshhhh let us know how you go
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re
hey yes daniel i meant the engines keyway i had a look at mine today it points straight up at but you wouldnt be able to see that without taking off the pulley so bad idea lol wat about the cut out on the sprocket type thing we have on the pully is that at TDC when its ontop of the engine position censor... if anyone else can explain this so that its a simple task to perform.. its deffinitley a verry good place to start.. i cant beleive your car isnt even firing at all its deffinitly a lack of either spark fuel or you engine has had a shitty when spraying fuel into your manifold was your airflow meter if you have one? open cuz i have had this stop a car not start it controls the fuel and did somthing with the computer aswell becuz we were putting fuel in the manifold and not even a pop worth a try holding it open while doin that becarfull of coarse... i think you will find its your cambelt if the compression test was correct though good luck man
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