HELP PLEASE!!!

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 9:32 pm

sprayed starter fluid into the intake manifold and car still wouldnt start. any other suggestions? this is just like what happened to me the other day with the corvette. driving down the road and it shut off, got under neath it and one of the ignition wires melted and broke in half, replaced wire and all was good. hmmm

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Sat Dec 13, 2008 10:40 pm

i know you said that it has spark, but do you have an extra coil pack? it might have spark but it could be weak.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 12:31 am

i have no compression in the two middle cylinders. what could cause this?? and would that explain why its not running? the two outer ones read a little over 30 on the gauge i rented.

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 1:45 am

sounds like your timing belt slipped, if so thats a total bummer.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 1:55 am

shoot, any way to check that??? i think i will be taking the top half of the engine off tomorrow to take a look. just think it is weird it was driving fine until i stopped at the light

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:36 am

0 plus 30 on two sounds really bad.... I'd have to agree on the timing belt..... how long and how many miles since the belt was last changed?

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 7:48 am

i have no clue, never done it since i had the car, and not sure when they did it last when the people before me had the car, the timing belt is still tight and all. i think it might have been at 130 not 30. not sure though, taking the top half off tomorrow. all i need to do for that is remove the 11 nuts on top of the engine right??

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:03 am

Uhhhhh hold on man...... it's not that simple.... removing the head must be done in a very specific sequence..... see the tech section or do some searching to find the cylinder head bolt removal instructions.

Just so we are clear.... once you remove the head it will take quite a bit of work and money to get the engine back together.

So if it turns out that the cylinder head and pistons are fine..... then you will have wasted quite a bit of money.

You will have to remove the timing belt during the head removal..... so that means realigning it which can be tricky if you don't know what your doing.... and you also risk the requirement for a new cylinder head gasket.... and cylinder head bolts.

if you simply reuse the old bolts and don't install a new cylinder head gasket (following the cylinder head bolt installation instructions) you may find that you get leaks ( oil in coolant, coolant in oil, cylinder to cylinder leakage )

So..... don't take the act of removing the head lightly... it will take you quite a bit of time..... and money

Don't forget that also means draining all the oil and coolant from the engine.... or it will go everywhere when you remove the head.... and mix together... and get into the cylinders and possibly screw up the engine.

There is a huge difference between 130 and 30..... if you got 130 then perhaps things are not as bad as they seem.

Perhaps you should do the compression test again just to be absolutely sure.

Make sure you remove the electrical plug going to the coil pack to disable the ignition...... make sure you crank the engine for 3 to 5 seconds.

If you do get zero.... then the engine is screwed big time.

If you get a low number then you should squirt a bit of oil into the cylinder and then redo the compression test.

Oil will make the piston rings seal.... so if you get low compression dry and higher compression wet ...... then that means it's not your cylinder head.... it' most likely related to pressure leaking past the piston rings.

If you did get 130 on two cylinders..... then the car should still run.... just very poorly.

Oh..... I just wanted to let you know there is another way to inspect the cylinder head / pistons / engine block....... you can purchase/borrow/rent a boroscope.

It's a fiberoptic cable that can go through your spark plug holes so that you can see inside without spending hours upon hours removing the cylinder head.

Here is a cheap example:
http://cgi.ebay.ca/BORESCOPE-BOROSCOPE- ... 240%3A1318

If you bought one you could always use it and then sell it again..... there might even be someone on this forum that might be interested in paying you $150 or more.... or if you put it back on EBAY you can always try and get your money back

Just a suggestion..... the cost of parts may not be too far off the boroscope..... especially if you resell it to someone

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:12 am

What kind of mileage did the car have when you bought it?

What is the mileage now?

buddha102 · Post by **buddha102** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 3:06 pm

side note:PrecisionBoost

the more i read ur comments the smarter i get lol

thx for the info

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:15 pm

the car was at 117000 and now it is at 129000. i know it should be done every 70000 miles correct? i have been thinking about doing it lately, just havnt had time.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:20 pm

and i'm a high school student, buying one of those bore things is a little spendy right now.

sheepdizildawg · Post by **sheepdizildawg** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 5:44 pm

and i wasnt going to remove the whole head, just the top portion, like the part the oil filler cap is on, i dont know anything about engines so idk what anything is called.

lol

nubira88 · Post by **nubira88** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:13 pm

hi dude. as in timing belt tight your not talking about the accessories belt the one that runs your powersteering are you? if you take your valve cover off the easiest way to tell i would think would be sunken valve cups the round things ontop of the valves. this seems to be part and parcel of owning a daewoo this bent valves thing pitty they are really nice cheap cars i pulled my head off because i knew that i had no chance in hell that my valves were in good order as my tbelt was sheard to the shit house on the inner side.. if you install your own valves and have a machine shop redo your guides amd possible seats rectify why your tbelt died in the 1st place it shouldnt be too exspensive to fix mab 400 dollars or cheaper as a full set of valves for you guys is like 80 dollars or sumphin? where as im paying nearly $250 damb wish i was a yank sumtimes haha

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Dec 14, 2008 10:41 pm

sheepdizildawg wrote:and i wasnt going to remove the whole head, just the top portion, like the part the oil filler cap is on, i dont know anything about engines so idk what anything is called. lol

Ok..... that should be fine..... you shouldn't have a problem if your just removing the valve cover..... the seal on that is usually pretty good..... worst case scenario you go out and buy some RTV silicone for a couple of bucks

Nubira88 brought up a good point about the belt..... the timing belt is located under a plastic cover.... you will need to remove a couple of 10mm bolts to get the cover off and inspect the timing belt.

I sort of assumed that you knew what to do with respect to inspecting the timing belt......and that certainly sucks if your a student.... as this does not sound like a cheap fix.