HELP PLEASE!!!
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
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- PrecisionBoost
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Yes....this might be your issue.... without a TPS signal the car has no idea how much fuel to inject.... in my opinion it's perhaps the second most important sensor ( first being the crank trigger )
If the TPS was giving faulty data then the car would run like crap.... but it would still run.....especially true at idle.
I have never run into a TPS circuit low before.... so I can't say for sure if that is your main problem.... perhaps others have run into this situation.
The TPS is basicly a large variable resistor...... 5V on one end.... ground on the other.... and when the throttle position is moved the center point of the potentiometer moves with it and changes the output voltage to the ECU.
So.... either the ECU is shot ( not supplyin the 5V reference or the input from the TPS is damaged ) or the TPS is no good and needs replacement.
TPS would be cheaper than an ECU.... perhaps someone is close to you and you can borrow one to see if it solves your problem.
If the TPS was giving faulty data then the car would run like crap.... but it would still run.....especially true at idle.
I have never run into a TPS circuit low before.... so I can't say for sure if that is your main problem.... perhaps others have run into this situation.
The TPS is basicly a large variable resistor...... 5V on one end.... ground on the other.... and when the throttle position is moved the center point of the potentiometer moves with it and changes the output voltage to the ECU.
So.... either the ECU is shot ( not supplyin the 5V reference or the input from the TPS is damaged ) or the TPS is no good and needs replacement.
TPS would be cheaper than an ECU.... perhaps someone is close to you and you can borrow one to see if it solves your problem.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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when my tps was messed up my car still ran...the ecu just diverted into close loop?...but the tranny didn't know when or how hard to shift...it would not shift till high in the rpm band and then it would shift extremely hard...it would sqeal the tires from first to second and from second to third it felt like it was gonna rip the axles out.
Jimmy
Jimmy
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You should still check the TPS if you can get one cheap enough..... if you still get a "low" after clearing the errors with the reader then it's either wiring from the ECU to the TPS or the ECU that is damaged.
You could buy a TPS.... connect it up and see what happens..... if it solves the problem great... if not you can allways return it ( just make sure you clean up the area your installing into beforehand so you don't get the new TPS dirty/oily )
TPS can screw up in multiple ways.... it can go low.... it can go high.... it can become non-linear..... so just because one jidasas's car started it may not be the same for you.
Tackle the problems one at a time...... there is no use in guessing at this point.
I did say that it "might" be your issue..... or perhaps it's just a contributing factor where there are multiple problems.
Your in Washington..... so it's probably getting cold there.... in most cases a car might start up in closed loop error mode if it is warm..... when it's cold.... well that can give you lots of problems.
I have a hell of a time starting my project cars once it gets below freezing.... the combination of components tend to be fine in summer.... but in the winter there is simply too much fuel and it floods the engine immediatly.... causing the car to simply churn away with no signs of starting.
One thing you could try ( although I suggest extreem caution ) is to open up the throttle body and squirt in some gasoline ( perhaps two bottle caps full to start )
Then try the ignition.... if it catches for a fraction of a second.... or starts then dies then that simply means that your not getting fuel out of the injectors.
One time I was having carburetor problems with my truck.... and I needed to move it from one side of the house to down behind my garage ( which is requires about 1/4 of a block worth of driving )
So.... I removed the hood.... put a tube into the top of the carb.... hooked the tube to an old gear oil jug I cleaned out and proceeded to drive the truck by squeezing the bottle.... which pushed fuel into the intake.... which allowed the truck to drive.
I had no power.... but it ran and drove from point A to B with nothing more than a bottle of gasoline and a long piece of tubing
Just be very carefull with the amount of gasoline you put in..... keep the hood open.... do it outside away from anything that can catch on fire.... and keep a fire extinguisher handy.
It is possible for the car to back fire and shoot unburned fuel out of the intake ... and sometimes that fuel can catch on fire as it's leaving and cause fires.
So I take no responsibility if your car burns down..... this is compeletely up to you.... if you don't feel comforable then you shouldn't do it.
You could buy a TPS.... connect it up and see what happens..... if it solves the problem great... if not you can allways return it ( just make sure you clean up the area your installing into beforehand so you don't get the new TPS dirty/oily )
TPS can screw up in multiple ways.... it can go low.... it can go high.... it can become non-linear..... so just because one jidasas's car started it may not be the same for you.
Tackle the problems one at a time...... there is no use in guessing at this point.
I did say that it "might" be your issue..... or perhaps it's just a contributing factor where there are multiple problems.
Your in Washington..... so it's probably getting cold there.... in most cases a car might start up in closed loop error mode if it is warm..... when it's cold.... well that can give you lots of problems.
I have a hell of a time starting my project cars once it gets below freezing.... the combination of components tend to be fine in summer.... but in the winter there is simply too much fuel and it floods the engine immediatly.... causing the car to simply churn away with no signs of starting.
One thing you could try ( although I suggest extreem caution ) is to open up the throttle body and squirt in some gasoline ( perhaps two bottle caps full to start )
Then try the ignition.... if it catches for a fraction of a second.... or starts then dies then that simply means that your not getting fuel out of the injectors.
One time I was having carburetor problems with my truck.... and I needed to move it from one side of the house to down behind my garage ( which is requires about 1/4 of a block worth of driving )
So.... I removed the hood.... put a tube into the top of the carb.... hooked the tube to an old gear oil jug I cleaned out and proceeded to drive the truck by squeezing the bottle.... which pushed fuel into the intake.... which allowed the truck to drive.
I had no power.... but it ran and drove from point A to B with nothing more than a bottle of gasoline and a long piece of tubing
Just be very carefull with the amount of gasoline you put in..... keep the hood open.... do it outside away from anything that can catch on fire.... and keep a fire extinguisher handy.
It is possible for the car to back fire and shoot unburned fuel out of the intake ... and sometimes that fuel can catch on fire as it's leaving and cause fires.
So I take no responsibility if your car burns down..... this is compeletely up to you.... if you don't feel comforable then you shouldn't do it.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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- Expert
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 4:42 am
- Location: Washington, USA
-
- Expert
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 4:42 am
- Location: Washington, USA
-
- Expert
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 4:42 am
- Location: Washington, USA
-
- Expert
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 4:42 am
- Location: Washington, USA
-
- Expert
- Posts: 342
- Joined: Wed May 07, 2008 4:42 am
- Location: Washington, USA