well I had this idea and I know the idea's come up before and I wanted to see if anyone fallowed through.
I'm cutting a ton more weight out of the 2.2 crank that I had knife-edged a while back and I want to move the reluctor out of the crank case to the UD pulley.
my question is... has anyone else already done this?
I've been thinking about modifying the stock reluctor to mount to the back side of the underdrive pulleys that Kinky sells but I'm thinking I would have to make spacers shims for all the serp pullies.
another thing I've been thinking about is to use a modified 1.6 crank pully but I dont remember what they look like... any pics?
either way I would have to use the sensor from a lanos, any idea what the plug in is like or if it's just the same as the Nubira?
gse_turbo wrote:well I had this idea and I know the idea's come up before and I wanted to see if anyone fallowed through.
I'm cutting a ton more weight out of the 2.2 crank that I had knife-edged a while back and I want to move the reluctor out of the crank case to the UD pulley.
my question is... has anyone else already done this?
I've been thinking about modifying the stock reluctor to mount to the back side of the underdrive pulleys that Kinky sells but I'm thinking I would have to make spacers shims for all the serp pullies.
another thing I've been thinking about is to use a modified 1.6 crank pully but I dont remember what they look like... any pics?
either way I would have to use the sensor from a lanos, any idea what the plug in is like or if it's just the same as the Nubira?
I have both the crank pulley and crank pos sensor for sale in the classifieds.
I'm pretty sure the Lanos crank has a different number of teeth... I could be wrong but I'm thinking they aren't the same.
So.... you'd have to run it off a standalone EMS or go with a Lanos ECU to make it function.
There is a small sensor bracket that bolts onto the 1.5L and 1.6L engines right around the oil pump area.... if you did get a the reluctor wheel on there you would have to figure out how to set the timing since both the reluctor wheel's tooth gap and the sensor are mounted in a very specific place.
If your using a standalone it should be able to learn the position... but having said that it's possible that the factory ECU might be able to accomidate as well... hard to say.
Basicly the reluctor wheel position vs crank position are the key elements.
It might be a simple relationship such as the missing tooth occurs exactly as Cylinder 1 hits top dead center of the exhaust/intake stroke.... but I personally don't know.... I haven't fooled with it to see where it lines up.
Personally... I think your better off with the reluctor on the crank.... but that's up to you.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
thanks for the reply, I was looking forward to you responce. I'll talk to the shop that's taking the extra weight off the crank. if they think the bulkiness of the first crank lobe is no big deal than I'll stick with the in case setup. I think by moving the reluctor outside the case and cutting down the first lode I would loose at least another pound. anyone whos messed with a 2.2 crank knows it's a rediculusly heavy basterd.
I think what I could do is set the crank to TDC and see what the relationship is between the sensor and the flat spot. if it's dead on when at TDC than that will make it easier, I could mount the sensor wherever and just clock the reluctor on the UD pulley to match up.
we'll see what the crank shop says, if the weight reduction is worth it than I'm all for it.
