Interior lighting HELP!!!!
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- Junior
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The lighted switch thing isn't a bad thing....it tells you that there is power going to the circuit.
The correct diagram is the one Oz put up.... although it should have lit up according to your other diagram. (although the neons would be on all the time and wouldn't shut off via the switch)
The Cigarette lighter is usually a high power device so the wiring should be able to handle your neon power requirements..... you sure do have something strange going on if one neon will work but two won't.
The whole run a wire from the battery thing sounds like a good idea just as long as you can remember to turn off the neons all the time (since it's not a switched power like the cigarette lighter)
The alternative is to use a relay (should be able to get one from your local autoparts store or Radioshack)
You would run a wire from the battery to the power connection of the relay and then the positive wire from the cigarette lighter to the "switch on" connection of the relay. You would then connect the power connection of your switch to the accessory line from the relay. Then ground the relay and the neons and run the power from the neons to the accessory connection on the switch.
Needless to say you would get power directly from the battery via a relay which switches the power on and off with the cigarette lighter.
It probably sounds complex but it's actually very easy.... if you got a relay I could draw you a diagram of how to hook it up.
The great thing about an inline relay is that you don't have to worry about accidentally leaving your neons on and killing your battery.... when you shut off the car the power to the neons automaticly shuts off (because the power to the relay from the cigarette lighter is shut off when the car is off)
The correct diagram is the one Oz put up.... although it should have lit up according to your other diagram. (although the neons would be on all the time and wouldn't shut off via the switch)
The Cigarette lighter is usually a high power device so the wiring should be able to handle your neon power requirements..... you sure do have something strange going on if one neon will work but two won't.
The whole run a wire from the battery thing sounds like a good idea just as long as you can remember to turn off the neons all the time (since it's not a switched power like the cigarette lighter)
The alternative is to use a relay (should be able to get one from your local autoparts store or Radioshack)
You would run a wire from the battery to the power connection of the relay and then the positive wire from the cigarette lighter to the "switch on" connection of the relay. You would then connect the power connection of your switch to the accessory line from the relay. Then ground the relay and the neons and run the power from the neons to the accessory connection on the switch.
Needless to say you would get power directly from the battery via a relay which switches the power on and off with the cigarette lighter.
It probably sounds complex but it's actually very easy.... if you got a relay I could draw you a diagram of how to hook it up.
The great thing about an inline relay is that you don't have to worry about accidentally leaving your neons on and killing your battery.... when you shut off the car the power to the neons automaticly shuts off (because the power to the relay from the cigarette lighter is shut off when the car is off)
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- All Powerful
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An relay is exactly what I want to do with my headlights.
Since the Lanos headlights will remain of even after you turn the car off and take out the key, I want to put a relay in the main power line of the lights so they go out when you turn off the car.
I don't remember if my Leganza leaves the lights on when the car is off or not, but I think it does.
If it does, I'll put in a relay in that car, too.
Since the Lanos headlights will remain of even after you turn the car off and take out the key, I want to put a relay in the main power line of the lights so they go out when you turn off the car.
I don't remember if my Leganza leaves the lights on when the car is off or not, but I think it does.
If it does, I'll put in a relay in that car, too.
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Ok ... a relay is a device that is used as a switching unit to transfer more power than a circuit or switch can handle.
Here is a diagram of your circuit with a relay and a couple pics of relays that you can find in your local auto parts stores.
![Image](http://www.ctg.net/redstone/neonrelay.jpg)
The 2 neons in the car I did both run on the cigarette lighter power with no problems, so I am not sure why the neons you have are not working when you connect them both to it.
Here is a diagram of your circuit with a relay and a couple pics of relays that you can find in your local auto parts stores.
![Image](http://www.ctg.net/redstone/neonrelay.jpg)
The 2 neons in the car I did both run on the cigarette lighter power with no problems, so I am not sure why the neons you have are not working when you connect them both to it.
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My neons were made for a computer and had computer hard drive type computer power supply power plugs on them so there were no instructions for connecting them to a car. I just did what they needed and connected the red to power & the black to ground with a switch in between the power line that got it's power from the cigarette lighter.
I really do not know why both of your neons will not work at the same time because they should.
I really do not know why both of your neons will not work at the same time because they should.
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Do they each work individually when connected one at a time?
If they do, pop your hood and try connecting one neon at a time and the both with the positive wires to the battery + and both the negative wires to the battery -
If they do not work together, which they should, you should try a different brand of neon.
If they do, pop your hood and try connecting one neon at a time and the both with the positive wires to the battery + and both the negative wires to the battery -
If they do not work together, which they should, you should try a different brand of neon.
- PrecisionBoost
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It's snowing here
If you buy me a ticket to Vegas I'd love to come down and fix your wiring
Sorry to say your problems are really strange... could be something simple or something really complex like the following......
The first high voltage inverter that runs the neon could be creating high frequency "switchmode" power supply noise that is feeding back along the 12V line into the second neon power conection which makes the second inverter "screw up" and not oscilate properly which creates even more feedback noise which then goes back to the first inverter and stops it from oscilating properly......and then neither neon tube inverter would be working..... this is better known as "circuit feedback"
I have some experience with this very thing when I was designing my high voltage supplies to run my radiation detectors (geiger tubes)... I found that putting my hand near to the power board resulted in wacko results where by which the entire power supply would shut down and draw about 1000 time more current than it was supposed to. ( the high voltage was inducing a current through the air into my hand and back down to another area of the circuit board which was very susceptible to feedback.)
This would easily be fixable with a couple of cheap diodes...but I have no idea how much power your neons require. ( diodes have power ratings)
I'm not saying that this is infact your problem but it's quite possible depending on how cheap the manufacturer was. (does it say made in China???)
They may have designed it to be a "single" neon and didn't take into account the fact there there could be two neon power supplies drawing power from the exact same power source.
Ideally they would have made a single supply to run both tubes instead of two separate power supplies.
If you had the right sized rectifer diodes ( 5W ?????) you would simply put them inline just like a fuse.....diodes only let power flow in one direction which would be into the neon tubes..... any feedback signal from the power supply going backwards into the 12V power connection would be blocked by the diode.
You could think of a diode as a one way valve.
You would hook your neon tube to the end that has a line drawn on it and your 12V power to the other end.
Sorry if this is too technical for you....it's hard to describe the process of feedback to someone who has no idea about electronics.
Try this...... hook one Neon to the battery ( should light up ) then turn on the neon hooked up to the switch (cigarette lighter)
If they both turn on you may have an evil feedback problem....and the only way to fix it would be to take the power from two different areas of the car (the feedback signal will be diluted enough that it doesn't screw up the second neon)
I'm probably not being all that helpfull....but there is no real way for me to tell what is going on with your neons without being there with some test equipment to check it out.
![Shock :shock:](./images/smilies/shock.gif)
If you buy me a ticket to Vegas I'd love to come down and fix your wiring
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/lol.gif)
![Laughing :lol:](./images/smilies/lol.gif)
Sorry to say your problems are really strange... could be something simple or something really complex like the following......
The first high voltage inverter that runs the neon could be creating high frequency "switchmode" power supply noise that is feeding back along the 12V line into the second neon power conection which makes the second inverter "screw up" and not oscilate properly which creates even more feedback noise which then goes back to the first inverter and stops it from oscilating properly......and then neither neon tube inverter would be working..... this is better known as "circuit feedback"
I have some experience with this very thing when I was designing my high voltage supplies to run my radiation detectors (geiger tubes)... I found that putting my hand near to the power board resulted in wacko results where by which the entire power supply would shut down and draw about 1000 time more current than it was supposed to. ( the high voltage was inducing a current through the air into my hand and back down to another area of the circuit board which was very susceptible to feedback.)
This would easily be fixable with a couple of cheap diodes...but I have no idea how much power your neons require. ( diodes have power ratings)
I'm not saying that this is infact your problem but it's quite possible depending on how cheap the manufacturer was. (does it say made in China???)
They may have designed it to be a "single" neon and didn't take into account the fact there there could be two neon power supplies drawing power from the exact same power source.
Ideally they would have made a single supply to run both tubes instead of two separate power supplies.
If you had the right sized rectifer diodes ( 5W ?????) you would simply put them inline just like a fuse.....diodes only let power flow in one direction which would be into the neon tubes..... any feedback signal from the power supply going backwards into the 12V power connection would be blocked by the diode.
You could think of a diode as a one way valve.
You would hook your neon tube to the end that has a line drawn on it and your 12V power to the other end.
Sorry if this is too technical for you....it's hard to describe the process of feedback to someone who has no idea about electronics.
Try this...... hook one Neon to the battery ( should light up ) then turn on the neon hooked up to the switch (cigarette lighter)
If they both turn on you may have an evil feedback problem....and the only way to fix it would be to take the power from two different areas of the car (the feedback signal will be diluted enough that it doesn't screw up the second neon)
I'm probably not being all that helpfull....but there is no real way for me to tell what is going on with your neons without being there with some test equipment to check it out.
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- All Powerful
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Yes, fly one or both of us out.
We have electronics and troubleshooting experioence and will get all the neon you want to work properly.
In fact, either of us could make the neon work by a switch or even the key fob remote accessory button on your car alarm remote.
Its really dificult to try to troubleshoot via web forum.
We have electronics and troubleshooting experioence and will get all the neon you want to work properly.
In fact, either of us could make the neon work by a switch or even the key fob remote accessory button on your car alarm remote.
Its really dificult to try to troubleshoot via web forum.
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- All Powerful
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I'm a telecommunications engineer with several years experience with troubleshooting audio, video, electronics, video teleconferencing and electrical problems.
Heh ... satellite shot uplink communication path troubleshooting and maintaince, too!
I also used to work in a auto repair shop in my free time because my friend owned the shop. In exchange for the work, I got full use of all the shop tools and free car parts, too!
FLY ME OUT!!! LOL
:P
J/K
Heh ... satellite shot uplink communication path troubleshooting and maintaince, too!
I also used to work in a auto repair shop in my free time because my friend owned the shop. In exchange for the work, I got full use of all the shop tools and free car parts, too!
FLY ME OUT!!! LOL
:P
J/K