Parasitic draw in 2000 Nubira

[Kellie]

Hi all,

Not a Daewoo owner, but I'm trying to fix one for a friend. I'm a certified BMW tech, so I'm pretty familiar with diagnosing complex electrical issues, but I'm not at all familiar with the systems and common quirks of Daewoos, so I'm hoping you guys might be able to educate me.

This all started when her battery died. Her dad put a new battery in for her and damaged the terminals in the process. A day later, the battery was completely drained. When I tested it with my Fluke, it was reading 0.00 volts. I went with her to exchange the battery and buy new terminals. I installed them and went on my way, and the next day, the battery was totally dead. I had her bring it over to my house where I hooked it up to a charger and completely recharged it. I hooked up my meter and found that it has a draw of 4.5 amps. CRAZY HIGH. I pulled each fuse and relay in the fuse box under the hood and the draw remained. I pulled each fuse in the box in the drivers side kick panel, and the draw remained. Are there any other fuses or relays that I'm missing? The only aftermarket electronic device I see in the vehicle is an "Interlock" device which is a breathalyzer that won't start the car if the driver has been drinking. I kind of suspect that this is the problem, but I think tampering with it can get me and/or her into big trouble. She called the Interlock folks and they swear that it can't be the problem, but I have my doubts.

There are no interior lights staying on. I tested the alternator and it's putting about 13.5 volts at idle (not that it really matters since the battery dies when the car is sitting). Is there something I'm missing? I'm assuming this isn't common since searching the forum didn't yield any answers.

Your input is greatly appreciated.

[benzino]

do you have an inductive multimeter that can measure amps?

if so, try starting at the battery and follow the current back from there

if the only aftermarket accessory is the interlock, all evidence points to it being incorrectly installed or not functioning properly
the electrical system isn't CAN or anything so don't worry, it's not complicated at all... it's pretty basic GM Delco

these might help give you more ideas too:
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showt ... id/224613/
http://flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batt ... Drain.html

[Daniel]

13.5V seems a bit low to me. I have 14.6V. Re-check current drain after disconnecting alternator. Were battery terminals dammaged following a polarity inversion?

[Kellie]

I disconnected the positive lead to the alternator and the draw dropped to 20-25 milliamps. Now where's the happy dance emoticon when I need it?

BTW, any recommendations for alternators? Cheapo parts store alternator sufficient, or is there a certain brand you guys try to stick with? Does anyone know the labor time to replace the alternator? Trying to figure out what I should charge. Thanks for all your help so far.

[Daniel]

As a guideline the factory standardized labor time for replacing alternator on a 2004 Nubira DOHC is 0.7hour.
Cheapo parts can be expensive on the long term.

[Kellie]

As a guideline the factory standardized labor time for replacing alternator on a 2004 Nubira DOHC is 0.7hour.
Cheapo parts can be expensive on the long term.

Less than an hour for an alternator?! That's crazy. Must be easy. I agree with you about the cheapo parts, and I usually recommend buying electrical components from the dealer, but there are no Daewoo dealers...that's why I asked. AutoZone and Napa both quoted around $170 for it, so I had her go ahead and order it. Hopefully it gets the job done.

[Daniel]

Less than a hour providing you have the good tool to squeeze the tensionner .

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[Kellie]

Oh, wonderful, Daewoo loves their special tools just as much as BMW! Not sure I understand the purpose of the V-shaped 30 degree angle part. A long 14mm wrench won't work?

By the way, I have to say that this forum has been incredibly helpful. Much more helpful than the BMW forum usually is, even with significantly fewer members. Thanks, guys.

[Daniel]

With a straight long 14mm wrench its travel is limited by engine mount and airco hoses and will not be enough to slacken the serpentine belt. With the vee your strart on first branch then swap to the second one.
But you may always remove the front right wheel and plastic splash shield to reach the tensioner.

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Hope it helps,

[Kellie]

I am not used to working on FWD cars. The lower alternator bolt hits the frame. I tried removing the motor mount and dropping the motor down, but it won't go far enough. Tried jacking it up, but to no avail. Tried Googling, and all of the search results say, "sell the car". Sigh.

Beginning to have my doubts about the 0.7 hour labor time for this job.

[Kellie]

So, uh...there's a bracket below the alternator that has to come out with it. I won, but the car sure made me feel stupid.

[Daniel]

So, uh...there's a bracket below the alternator that has to come out with it. I won, but the car sure made me feel stupid.

Well, uh... the "factory standardized labor time" is the average time a factory trained mechanic is expected to spend on a specific work. Times 2 to 4 when I do it .

I would certainly feel stupid too if I had to work on BMW.

[Puddle31]

Kellie, trust me, if it has to do with a Daewoo these guys know what to do and how to do it. Quite frankly i think I would have gotten rid of my car a long time ago if not for the tips and pointers these guys have posted on here.