OK I am having a horrible time with the control arm replacement on our 2000 Nubria wagon. I had new arms installed at a shop. They did something weird lower the subframe? And destroyed the split sleeve bushings in the rear lower control arms!
I took it to another shop with new control arms and they said the slit sleeves need to be reused and because these were F''D
up they can't put the new arms on! The car is burning thur tires like crazy! I tried to order a bushing kit from Rock auto with the sleeves but they are out of stock! Where can I find the sleeves? Do I need to go to the JY and pull the A arms?
No need to lower the subframe. I haven't did it to remove/replace control arms.
And I've reused the old split sleeves after some hammer work on them. But when split sleeves are too rusted you can't.
You can look on google or consider making them from scrap.
Hi all,
I'm trying to remove the front control arms from a Nubira, but the control arms rear bushings wont come out of the cross-member because the split sleeve is somehow caught in the cross-member.
How do you 'detach' the split sleeve in the rear bush from the cross-member? Can it be done without damaging the split sleeve?
Quench wrote:Hi all,
I'm trying to remove the front control arms from a Nubira, but the control arms rear bushings wont come out of the cross-member because the split sleeve is somehow caught in the cross-member.
How do you 'detach' the split sleeve in the rear bush from the cross-member? Can it be done without damaging the split sleeve?
Many thanks in advance.
Depending how rusted are split sleeves it's maybe doable to extract them without causing their deterioration. Spray good amount of penetrating oil several hours before atempting. You have to make/use some kind of hook to catch the top sleeve.
Daniel wrote:
You have to make/use some kind of hook to catch the top sleeve.
Ah, a hook. Great idea!
These control arms I'm removing have near new bushings. So the split sleeves are shiny new
Hopefully the sleeves won't be too tight in the bushings to pull with the hook.
Will the lower split sleeve stop the upper split sleeve from coming down when I try to pull the upper sleeve down with the hook? The upper split sleeve is the one that's caught in the cross-member.
BTW, do you have the torque settings for the 3 control arm bolts (i.e. ball joint, front and rear bushing bolts)?
Never mind about the torque settings for the control arms, I found the procedure online.
1. Install the control arm.
2. Install the rear crossmember–to–body bolt. Do not tighten the bolt.
3. Install the front control arm bolt and nut into the crossmember. Bolt goes in from the top.
4. Tighten the control arm to crossmember nut to 110 Nm (81 lb–ft)
5. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
6. Install the ball joint pinch bolt and the nut.
7. Tighten the ball joint pinch bolt nut to 60 Nm (44 lbft).
8. Tighten the rear crossmember–to–body bolt to 196 Nm (145 lb–ft).
Slip sleeves are somehow elastic and a tad bigger in diameter than the 16mm inner diameter of silent bloc. So they should stay in place waiting for 14mm bolt.
Quench wrote:Never mind about the torque settings for the control arms, I found the procedure online.
1. Install the control arm.
2. Install the rear crossmember–to–body bolt. Do not tighten the bolt.
3. Install the front control arm bolt and nut into the crossmember. Bolt goes in from the top.
4. Tighten the control arm to crossmember nut to 110 Nm (81 lb–ft)
5. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
6. Install the ball joint pinch bolt and the nut.
7. Tighten the ball joint pinch bolt nut to 60 Nm (44 lbft).
8. Tighten the rear crossmember–to–body bolt to 196 Nm (145 lb–ft).
Hehe! I was one min too late.
But this procedure lack to mention split sleeves between 1 and 2
Hey thanks for the quick reply! I found the parts in country at Daewoousa.com so that part is solved. I spoke to the shop and the guy explained what he did and yes he used a hook to remove tthe upper split sleeve. So he does understand how the part works but... he still wants to drop the subframe to install the part and that makes me uncomrfortable!
I see more details got explained while I was gone.
I have a concern about the crossmember bolt that runs under the halfshaft. I'd had read that you have to cut that bolt off because the half shaft interfears with the bolt removeal? Is that the case? I don't want to have to screw around with the half shafts! Can this bolt be removed without screwing with the halfshaft
Tires Plus removed the half shaft while they were busy F'ing up the split sleeve.
"A"holes did not realine the car after half assing the A arm job! My Woo ate up 2 brand new two week old tires in two days! Took it to a new shop for alingment as is ,they found the toe in to be twice what it should be!
chip18sw wrote:
>
>
I have a concern about the crossmember bolt that runs under the halfshaft. I'd had read that you have to cut that bolt off because the half shaft interfears with the bolt removeal? Is that the case? I don't want to have to screw around with the half shafts! Can this bolt be removed without screwing with the halfshaft
>
>
Thanks for anyinput.
I have had no major problem removing this bolt after I pushed the strut assy forward.
One more pic?
frt bolt.JPG
I know some guy cut this bolt and place a new one upside down with nut on top. This is not a recommenbable practice (as per aviation standard) because loosing nut = loosing screw.
Wow outstanding! I think I will do this myself. It looks like this thread has pretty much gone over all the issues with this job. I usually do supenshion stuff myself but this car has been a PIA.
I have to get another car up and running before I take this one down though but I'm pretty sure I can get it done!
Quench wrote:Never mind about the torque settings for the control arms, I found the procedure online.
1. Install the control arm.
2. Install the rear crossmember–to–body bolt. Do not tighten the bolt.
3. Install the front control arm bolt and nut into the crossmember. Bolt goes in from the top.
4. Tighten the control arm to crossmember nut to 110 Nm (81 lb–ft)
5. Connect the ball joint to the steering knuckle.
6. Install the ball joint pinch bolt and the nut.
7. Tighten the ball joint pinch bolt nut to 60 Nm (44 lbft).
8. Tighten the rear crossmember–to–body bolt to 196 Nm (145 lb–ft).
Hehe! I was one min too late.
But this procedure lack to mention split sleeves between 1 and 2
Oh yeah good point, how do we get the split sleeve back in place?
Daniel wrote: But this procedure lack to mention split sleeves between 1 and 2
chip18sw wrote:
Oh yeah good point, how do we get the split sleeve back in place?
With your fingers!
Silent block rear suspension arms without split sleeves measure 49 mm high and slide into the crossmember leaving little axial play. The function of split sleeves is to center the inner tube of the silent block to avoid lateral play. The split sleeves are slipped behind one another once the arm is in place. The split sleeves should be inserted without having to hammer them because then they will probably bend through the centering hole. The second split sleeve must be level to the bottom of crossmember before atempting to fit the 14mm bolt.
