switching an LSD between transmissions

[PrecisionBoost]

There are more steps to disassemble the differencial..... and I will go into more detail if there is anyone wishing to replace components such as the final drive gear.

So.... reassembly is simply the reverse of disassembly.... nothing too serious.

Fastners.......

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Torque right side bearing retainer bolts to 18 lb ft


Install notched bearing retainer ring and tighten until there is no end play on differencial

Adjust the preload of the differencial bearings by rotating the retainer ring.

For used bearings, 1 N·m (9 lb in) is required to rotate the differential 1 revolution per second

For new bearings, 2 N·m (18 lb in) is required to rotate the differential 1 revolution per second

Tighten or loosen the bearing ring adjuster to get the required preload on the bearings

Torque notched bearing retainer plate bolt to 44 lb in (keep note this is lb in not lb ft.......44 lb in is 3.67 lbft..... it's a small bolt )

Torque Differencial cover bolts to 30 lb ft

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I'm not entirely sure how to adjust the preload on the bearings.... it doesn't show any sort of special tool to measure the force required to rotate the differencial.

Basicly I would simply try and tighten it up until there is no play in the differencial when you try to wiggle the outside gear up and down.

I would then look to see where the small punch was made on the ring and try to line it up like it was when it was disassembled. ( see the step in the disassembly where I used a center punch to mark the notch on the ring that was dead center in the retainer plate )

If you had a used axle you could cut it off and weld a socket onto the end of it.

Then you could insert it into the differencial and use a torque wrench to rotate the chunk of axle.

You would probably need one of those cheap torque wrenches where it just simply moves a needle on a scale (as opposed to the click type )

It's called a "beam type" http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Torque_wrench

Then you would rotate the axle watching the gauge to see what the reading was.

If it was less than 9 lb in of torque you would have to tighten the notched ring one notch and try it again.

If it was more than 9 lb in of torque you would have to loosen the notched ring one notch and try it again.

If it's very close but not far enough for a whole notch movement there is a slight adjustment with the retainer plate which will allow you to move a half notch.


My opinion is that you simply put it back the way it was during disassembly if you don't have the beam type wrench.

Once it's back to this position wiggle the differencial to make sure it's not loose and also rotate it by hand to make sure it moves smoothly.


Another good idea is to count the number of rotations the notched ring makes so that you can reproduce the number of turns upon reassembly.

[PrecisionBoost]

One last note..... I am worried that the marks wont line up unless the same bearings and retainers are used together.

It's possible that one set of retainers might be slightly more worn than the other

So.... I suggest that you swap notched retainer ring #1 , right side retainer #1 and differencial #1 into gearbox #2 as a complete set

Then install retainer ring #2 , right side retainer #2 and differencial #2 into gearbox #1