Abs Light on constantly! BUT NO ERROR CODES!
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Thanks mezo
Yea my abs is BOSCH so im guessing thats why i couldent find my EBCM lol as its intigrated to the pump lol..
Looking at the wiring diags i noticed that there is some mention of high resistance and the red and black wires (both repaired by me) i used the crimps and wondered if there might be a bad connection and they seem fine so i decided to do a check of the resistanceand here is what i got
Right Rear = Fine = 1 Ohm resistance (same on both wires)
Left Rear = Faulty = 3 Ohm Resistance (same on both wires)
Could this be throwing it off???..... i know its only 2 ohms but is it worth soldering the wires instead of crimping them?
as the rear sensor has been replaced im guessing the only other thing i can do is replace the pump ect ?
Thanks
Wappy
Yea my abs is BOSCH so im guessing thats why i couldent find my EBCM lol as its intigrated to the pump lol..
Looking at the wiring diags i noticed that there is some mention of high resistance and the red and black wires (both repaired by me) i used the crimps and wondered if there might be a bad connection and they seem fine so i decided to do a check of the resistanceand here is what i got
Right Rear = Fine = 1 Ohm resistance (same on both wires)
Left Rear = Faulty = 3 Ohm Resistance (same on both wires)
Could this be throwing it off???..... i know its only 2 ohms but is it worth soldering the wires instead of crimping them?
as the rear sensor has been replaced im guessing the only other thing i can do is replace the pump ect ?
Thanks
Wappy
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first, u cant determine where is the faulty unless u check the whole harness of the ABS..
When anybody has the ABS indicator lamp on he usually check his car with a scanner to know where is the fault, but when there is no fault in the sensors, then u still got two principles which are the pump and the harness, althought i doubt that if the pump was bad the scanner would have told u...
so before u change anything, i suggest u get the ABS wiring of the car and chack all the wires starting frim each socket (the beginning) to the final socket which its going to (the final socket)...keep in mind that each wire starts from a socket and ends to another socket, i know this wouls take forever to do, but i would suggest that u start with the main sockets first, like the pump socket it self and as long as u get a faulty left rear sensor error in the scanner, the check the main sockets of the floor harness, which are the tank socket and ECU sockets and the power sockets which are located under the dashboard on the very left side (next to the hood release handle)...
but standing on that the scanner is showing a certain error (the sensor) then i suspect the tank socket and the wires from the tank socket to the rear sensors (the easy solution)...
the hard solution is the wires in the floor harness which are connected to the tank socket, u can see which wires colour are connected to the 4-pin ABS socket in the tank socket and check the four wires with a voltmeter or an indicator lamp from that socket to the other socket they come from (in the same harness)
OF COURSE if u have another working pump or u can borrow it from someone to test and give him the pump back, then just simply attach the pump to the socket of the other pump and turn the key to the ON position and see if the indicator lamp goes off..and so sorry for writing this solution in the last as this should be the first thing to try to save time and hard effort with wires.
When anybody has the ABS indicator lamp on he usually check his car with a scanner to know where is the fault, but when there is no fault in the sensors, then u still got two principles which are the pump and the harness, althought i doubt that if the pump was bad the scanner would have told u...
so before u change anything, i suggest u get the ABS wiring of the car and chack all the wires starting frim each socket (the beginning) to the final socket which its going to (the final socket)...keep in mind that each wire starts from a socket and ends to another socket, i know this wouls take forever to do, but i would suggest that u start with the main sockets first, like the pump socket it self and as long as u get a faulty left rear sensor error in the scanner, the check the main sockets of the floor harness, which are the tank socket and ECU sockets and the power sockets which are located under the dashboard on the very left side (next to the hood release handle)...
but standing on that the scanner is showing a certain error (the sensor) then i suspect the tank socket and the wires from the tank socket to the rear sensors (the easy solution)...
the hard solution is the wires in the floor harness which are connected to the tank socket, u can see which wires colour are connected to the 4-pin ABS socket in the tank socket and check the four wires with a voltmeter or an indicator lamp from that socket to the other socket they come from (in the same harness)
OF COURSE if u have another working pump or u can borrow it from someone to test and give him the pump back, then just simply attach the pump to the socket of the other pump and turn the key to the ON position and see if the indicator lamp goes off..and so sorry for writing this solution in the last as this should be the first thing to try to save time and hard effort with wires.
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
Thanks Mezo
Right i disconnected the harness under the drivers seat and then tested the voltage on the red Wire there and i get noting but the resistence is only 1 Ohm same as other side but Nothing on the voltage side and from what i can see this is the fist harness in the chain from the bosch pump unit?
As for borrowing a pump theres not much chance unfortunatly, but i think i wasnt clear when i said the pump before i'm sure the pump is fine im just saying pump but i mean the control unit on the side of it. sory if i caused confusion.
Basicly i have no idea lol, sorry ...
Well i made a quick scetch of where i tested...
Mind the quality lol
Point a is where i meaured the voltages and get nothing... but there is a resistance of 1 Ohm and i disconnected the harness from the rest of the sensor.
Thanks Wappy
P.s this is the pump/Modulator i mean its the same as mine
Right i disconnected the harness under the drivers seat and then tested the voltage on the red Wire there and i get noting but the resistence is only 1 Ohm same as other side but Nothing on the voltage side and from what i can see this is the fist harness in the chain from the bosch pump unit?
As for borrowing a pump theres not much chance unfortunatly, but i think i wasnt clear when i said the pump before i'm sure the pump is fine im just saying pump but i mean the control unit on the side of it. sory if i caused confusion.
Basicly i have no idea lol, sorry ...
Well i made a quick scetch of where i tested...
Mind the quality lol
Point a is where i meaured the voltages and get nothing... but there is a resistance of 1 Ohm and i disconnected the harness from the rest of the sensor.
Thanks Wappy
P.s this is the pump/Modulator i mean its the same as mine
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wappy, this way u will take forever to fix the problem, so i guess u should first try this:
1. check every socket pins and use a pin or any tiny device to tighten the female pins alittle as daewoo sockets sometimes lose connection cause of no connection in the socket pins.
2. locate the tank socket, u will find two or three sockets connected to it (connected to the black tank socket it self) locate the socket which comes from the rear ABS sensors, identify the coloures of each wire goes to this socket.
3. use a avometer or an indicator lamp to test the wires like this: one terminal of the avo or the ind. lamp on the beginning of the wire (the tank socket side) and the other terminal in any other socket pic all over the harness which is connected to the same wire colour, they are supposed to be only four wires and u will have to do this operation for four times and i hope this shows u the brocken wire so u can fix it...one wire failure is enough to stop the whole ABS and turn the ABS indicator lamp on
1. check every socket pins and use a pin or any tiny device to tighten the female pins alittle as daewoo sockets sometimes lose connection cause of no connection in the socket pins.
2. locate the tank socket, u will find two or three sockets connected to it (connected to the black tank socket it self) locate the socket which comes from the rear ABS sensors, identify the coloures of each wire goes to this socket.
3. use a avometer or an indicator lamp to test the wires like this: one terminal of the avo or the ind. lamp on the beginning of the wire (the tank socket side) and the other terminal in any other socket pic all over the harness which is connected to the same wire colour, they are supposed to be only four wires and u will have to do this operation for four times and i hope this shows u the brocken wire so u can fix it...one wire failure is enough to stop the whole ABS and turn the ABS indicator lamp on
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
Thanks
Its been a long day been and my multimeter has had a good going over .. i've checked the wire from ster to finish and no damages the voltage on the red wire is about 4.74v and black is 0v all i can guess is the modulator attatced to the pump is actually faylty? or im i missing something as from what i can read on the 7F-46 Fault section 19 it then says check step 20 witch we can see i dont have a ebcm. i carnt check A3 on J1...
Wappy
P.s How easy is it to replace the EBCM/pump on this daewoo? (the one in the pic above)
Its been a long day been and my multimeter has had a good going over .. i've checked the wire from ster to finish and no damages the voltage on the red wire is about 4.74v and black is 0v all i can guess is the modulator attatced to the pump is actually faylty? or im i missing something as from what i can read on the 7F-46 Fault section 19 it then says check step 20 witch we can see i dont have a ebcm. i carnt check A3 on J1...
Wappy
P.s How easy is it to replace the EBCM/pump on this daewoo? (the one in the pic above)
- mezomaster
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ok wappy, then after checking the wiring i guess u have a faulty control unit then, and its attached to the pump so u will have to replace the whole pump unit with its control unit, just make sure about the part number as the new unit should also be the same model BOCSH to work with your car's harness...
its very easy to change the pump, just by loosening the four brakes lines which are going to the pump and the two 12mm or 13mm nuts on the two sides of the pump then it will be free...
NOTE: u should take care cuz u will have to bleed the brake system again, bleed from the pump first and then bleed from each tire link...
i would suggest that when u finish bleeding and go for a test make the abs work couple of times then do the bleeding process again, cuz sometimes u get some more air out when u bleed again (they come after making the pump work)
GOOD LUCK
its very easy to change the pump, just by loosening the four brakes lines which are going to the pump and the two 12mm or 13mm nuts on the two sides of the pump then it will be free...
NOTE: u should take care cuz u will have to bleed the brake system again, bleed from the pump first and then bleed from each tire link...
i would suggest that when u finish bleeding and go for a test make the abs work couple of times then do the bleeding process again, cuz sometimes u get some more air out when u bleed again (they come after making the pump work)
GOOD LUCK
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
Thanks Mezo You have been a great help
Finding a part is proving quiet hard if even tried the scrappers and no one has this type was it only used on a few models? and the only few numbers i can find are these two
96 283 843
&
TD 08208010059
But there not coming up anywhere! could the model number be located somewhere else on the pump and modulator (these were on the top of the pump)
Finding a part is proving quiet hard if even tried the scrappers and no one has this type was it only used on a few models? and the only few numbers i can find are these two
96 283 843
&
TD 08208010059
But there not coming up anywhere! could the model number be located somewhere else on the pump and modulator (these were on the top of the pump)
- mezomaster
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- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:51 pm
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u r welcome anytime bro, i would love to help.
as far as i remember the only part number or serial number of the pump is located on the upper side of the pump only, i think there is no more number anywhere else.
u should get the same model BOSCH pump to work with your harness, another solution is to get another pump which has the same socket and the same signals and same wires locations in the socket and replace ur pump with it (i guess its hard thing to do as u should have the other pump wiring diagram to compare it with your current pump)
if you are attemping to get the other pump (older version of daewoo ABS pump which has the external ECU) then u will have to replace your whole dashboard harness cuz that pump has its external ECU and its located behind the dashboard) its the only harness u will have to change though, cuz the rest of the car harness are the same. that would be easy only if u can find a complete car or complete front end car in a junk yard or something and start taking out the part which u will need to use in your car..
hope this can help u, and hope u can find another BOSCH pump similar to yours cuz thats much more easier
as far as i remember the only part number or serial number of the pump is located on the upper side of the pump only, i think there is no more number anywhere else.
u should get the same model BOSCH pump to work with your harness, another solution is to get another pump which has the same socket and the same signals and same wires locations in the socket and replace ur pump with it (i guess its hard thing to do as u should have the other pump wiring diagram to compare it with your current pump)
if you are attemping to get the other pump (older version of daewoo ABS pump which has the external ECU) then u will have to replace your whole dashboard harness cuz that pump has its external ECU and its located behind the dashboard) its the only harness u will have to change though, cuz the rest of the car harness are the same. that would be easy only if u can find a complete car or complete front end car in a junk yard or something and start taking out the part which u will need to use in your car..
hope this can help u, and hope u can find another BOSCH pump similar to yours cuz thats much more easier
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
Thanks mezo I've done quiet a bit of digging and found this lot of info for you all..
Bosch Part numbers all start with the number 0265 and is 10 digits the number is always found on the top of the pump (where the pipes go in) and probably be covered in dirt so a good clean will result in part number underneath (you were right mezo).. Mine is a 0265216718
Getting it repaired... i've found two places in the uk that will repair it for £100 plus vat. and it carries warranty if its not faulty its only £25 for testing. NOT BAD and then i found out the gem..
ALL Bosch Units you can remove the External unit on the pump (6 Torx Screws and 2 Cable Sets) and send it in to repair no need to take all the brakes system apart and even better i can still use the car!..
it's taken me a total of 10 mins to take off its that easy!!
So off it goes for repair and its set me back the cost of getting one from a scrappers.. (i did find a scrappers on ebay but they wanter £150 and would only sell with the pump unit)
Thanks
Wappy
Bosch Part numbers all start with the number 0265 and is 10 digits the number is always found on the top of the pump (where the pipes go in) and probably be covered in dirt so a good clean will result in part number underneath (you were right mezo).. Mine is a 0265216718
Getting it repaired... i've found two places in the uk that will repair it for £100 plus vat. and it carries warranty if its not faulty its only £25 for testing. NOT BAD and then i found out the gem..
ALL Bosch Units you can remove the External unit on the pump (6 Torx Screws and 2 Cable Sets) and send it in to repair no need to take all the brakes system apart and even better i can still use the car!..
it's taken me a total of 10 mins to take off its that easy!!
So off it goes for repair and its set me back the cost of getting one from a scrappers.. (i did find a scrappers on ebay but they wanter £150 and would only sell with the pump unit)
Thanks
Wappy
- mezomaster
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- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:51 pm
- Location: Egypt-Giza
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its a good news to know these units can be fixed, actually i didnt try to do this before, so of course fixing it would be much more cheaper and helpful...good luck and let me know when its fixed and works well again
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
Hallelujah
WHOOOTT!!!!!!!!!!
Im happy, guess what it worked lol lol lol it was faulty they repaired and got it back today and all is fine now im gonna book in its MOT and see how many times it fails lol lol lol
But seriously Thanks every one in this thread and i hope some one with a similar problem reads this post and gets a fix..
Btw it was here that repaired it http://ecu-testing.com/ecu_testing.html
i wouldent mind the main dealers missed it
With hinesight here is what should have happend
1 Take to dealer to get error code (DON'T LET THEM DIAGNOSE)
2 Test the Sensor with a Multimeter (If sensor fine)
3 Check the voltages in the harness starting at the sensot input and work back if all the same back to the pump module
If Voltage is below 2.5 (i think) its a wire problem and if its above 2.5 its a high resistance in the wires or faulty pump module
4. check the wires for high resistance if non try and get the Pump module tested thats probably your fault...
This is not a officioal diagnosing system its just the one that would have solved my problem so as i say i hope some one gets some use out of this post
Wappy
WHOOOTT!!!!!!!!!!
Im happy, guess what it worked lol lol lol it was faulty they repaired and got it back today and all is fine now im gonna book in its MOT and see how many times it fails lol lol lol
But seriously Thanks every one in this thread and i hope some one with a similar problem reads this post and gets a fix..
Btw it was here that repaired it http://ecu-testing.com/ecu_testing.html
i wouldent mind the main dealers missed it
With hinesight here is what should have happend
1 Take to dealer to get error code (DON'T LET THEM DIAGNOSE)
2 Test the Sensor with a Multimeter (If sensor fine)
3 Check the voltages in the harness starting at the sensot input and work back if all the same back to the pump module
If Voltage is below 2.5 (i think) its a wire problem and if its above 2.5 its a high resistance in the wires or faulty pump module
4. check the wires for high resistance if non try and get the Pump module tested thats probably your fault...
This is not a officioal diagnosing system its just the one that would have solved my problem so as i say i hope some one gets some use out of this post
Wappy
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congratulations man, its great that ur ABS is working again, enjoy and be carefull, ABS still not the perfect way to stop sometimes..
have a safe ABS driving
have a safe ABS driving
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)