There I need your mechanical lights. Towards 60.000km I had inspected the rear drum brakes of my Nubira and it was dead easy: raise and remove the wheel, remove the detend screw, to leave the drum which had come without pain. No cotter pin nor castle nut here.
Today towards 95.000km I try the same method and nada, no chance. The drum does not come, retained by the jaws which undoubtedly (more) dug the drum a little. How to collapse these jaws? I saw well a rubber stopper (part 12 of the pic) which would perhaps give access to the wear correction system. Is it this method or do I need to extract the drum in force?
Oh yeah BTW the parking brake was released
Wrenches
Jack
Jack stands
Brake spring pliers
Brake retainer tool
Screwdriver or pry bar
Pliers or vise grips
Hammer
Large chisel
White Lithium Grease
Latex Gloves
Dust mask
New brake shoes
Before You Start:
Follow these instructions carefully. Read and be sure you understand them before you begin.
Gather together all of your tools and supplies before you begin.
Allow plenty of time to do the job so you don't have to hurry.
Remember that these are general instructions. For more detailed instructions pertaining to your specific vehicle, consult an appropriate repair manual.
Safety is important whenever you're working around machinery. Beware of hot objects, sharp instruments and hazardous materials.
Don't substitute tools unless you're sure you won't compromise either your safety or the performance of your vehicle.
Never work on a vehicle that is only supported by a jack. Use jack stands to support the vehicle while you work. Work on a solid, level surface. Never jack a car up on dirt or grass.
Do one wheel at a time so you can use the other wheel as a reference in case you get confused.
Check for any fluid leaks or cracked brake lines. Replace them as necessary.
CAUTION!!!
Brake linings contain asbestos. Do not use compressed air or dry brush to clean brake parts. Many brake parts contain asbestos fibers that, if inhaled, can cause serious injury. To clean brake parts, use water soaked rags or a suitable vacuum cleaner to minimize airborne dust.
Removal:
Remove about half the brake fluid from the master cylinder and put it into a sealed container. Dispose of it properly. Do not reuse old brake fluid; always use fresh brake fluid from a sealed container. Brake fluid will eat paint so do not get it on your vehicles finish. If you do, wash it off (brake fluid is water soluble) with plenty of water.
Using a lug wrench, crack the wheel lugs loose one or two turns. Do not remove them completely.
Jack one side of the vehicle up and support it with a jack stand. Do the same for the opposite side.
Remove the lugs and take the wheels off.
To remove the brake drums:
Rear Wheel Drive:
Remove brake drum. Look at the wheel studs for a round clip. If they are there, use a wire cutters or other suitable tool to remove them. You don't have to worry about breaking or losing them. They are there to keep the brake drum from falling off while on the assembly line. They serve no purpose now. If brake lining is dragging on brake drum, back off brake adjustment by rotating adjustment screw. If brake drum is rusted or corroded to axle flange and cannot be removed readily, apply some rust penetrent and lightly tap axle flange to drum mounting surface with a suitable hammer.
Any time the brake drums are removed for brake service, the braking surface diameter should be checked with a suitable brake drum micrometer at several points to determine if they are within the safe oversize limit stamped on the brake drum outer surface. If the braking surface diameter exceeds specifications, the drum must be replaced. If the braking surface diameter is within specifications, drums should be cleaned and inspected for cracks, scores, deep grooves, taper, out of round and heat spotting. If drums are cracked or heat spotted, they must be replaced.
Minor scores should be removed with sandpaper. Grooves and large scores can only be removed by machining with special equipment, as long as the braking surface is within specifications stamped on brake drum outer surface. Any brake drum sufficiently out of round to cause vehicle vibration or noise while braking or showing taper should also be machined, removing only enough stock to true up the brake drum.
After a brake drum is machined, wipe the braking surface diameter with a denatured alcohol soaked cloth. If one brake drum is machined, the other should also be machined to the same diameter to maintain equal braking forces. I would recommend that the drums be resurfaced whenever you replace the shoes. If you do not plan on resurfacing the drums, mark a wheel stud and put a matching mark on the drum so you can reinstall it in the same position it came off. Also mark them left and right.
DIY: Drum Brakes
Type 1:
Using brake spring pliers or equivalent, remove primary and secondary shoe return springs.
Remove automatic adjuster cable from anchor plate and unhook from adjuster lever.
Remove adjuster cable, overload spring, cable guide and anchor plate.
Unhook adjuster lever spring from lever and remove spring and lever.
Remove shoe-to-shoe spring from secondary shoe web, then the primary shoe.
Spread shoes apart and remove parking brake strut and spring.
Using suitable tool, remove shoe retainers, then the springs and nails.
Disconnect parking brake cable from lever and remove brake shoes.
Remove parking brake lever from secondary shoe.
Clean dirt from brake drum, backing plate and all other components.
NOTE: In many cases the primary shoe material is longer than the secondary shoe material. The longer shoe always goes towards the rear of the car and the short shoe towards the front.
Type 2:
Disconnect parking brake cable from parking brake lever.
Using suitable pliers, remove brake shoe to anchor springs and hold-down springs.
Fully seat adjuster nut, then spread shoes apart and remove adjuster screw assembly.
Raise parking brake lever, then pull trailing shoe away from support to ease return spring tension and disengage spring end from support. Remove trailing shoe.
Pull leading shoe away from support to ease return spring tension and disengage spring end from support. Remove leading shoe.
Remove parking brake lever from trailing shoe.
Clean dirt from brake drum, support plate and all other components.
Type 3:
Using suitable pliers, remove adjuster lever spring.
Remove adjuster lever.
Turn automatic adjuster screw out to expand shoes past wheel cylinder boot.
Using suitable tool, remove hold-down springs.
Pull brake shoe assembly down and away from anchor plate.
Remove C-clip retaining parking brake lever to trailing brake shoe webbing.
Disassemble shoe assembly.
Clean dirt from brake drum, anchor plate and all other components.
Installation:
Type 1:
Lubricate parking brake lever fulcrum with suitable brake lube, then attach lever to secondary brake shoe. Ensure that the lever operates smoothly.
Lightly lubricate backing plate shoe contact surfaces with suitable brake lube.
Connect parking brake lever to cable and slide secondary brake shoe into position.
Connect wheel cylinder link to brake shoe (if equipped).
Slide parking brake lever strut behind axle flange and into parking brake lever slot, then place parking brake anti-rattle spring over strut.
Position primary brake shoe on backing plate and connect wheel cylinder link (if equipped) and parking brake strut.
Install anchor plate and position adjuster cable eye over anchor pin.
Install primary shoe return spring using brake spring pliers or equivalent.
Place protruding hole rim of cable guide in secondary shoe web hole, then holding guide in position, install secondary shoe return spring through cable guide and secondary shoe. Install spring on anchor pin using brake spring pliers or equivalent.
NOTE: Ensure cable guide remains flat against secondary shoe web during and after return spring installation. Also ensure secondary spring end overlaps primary spring end on anchor pin.
Using suitable pliers, squeeze spring ends around anchor pin until parallel.
Install adjuster screw assembly between primary and secondary brake shoes with star wheel on secondary shoe side.
NOTE: The left side adjuster assembly stud is stamped "L" and the right side is stamped "R". Be sure you don't mix them up or your brakes will not self-adjust.
Install shoe-to-shoe spring, then position adjusting lever spring over pivot pin on shoe web.
Install adjusting lever under spring and over pivot pin, then slide lever slightly rearward.
Install nails, springs and retainers.
Thread adjuster cable over guide and hook end of overload spring in lever. Ensure eye of cable is pulled tight against anchor and in a straight line with guide.
Install brake drum, tire and wheel assembly.
Adjust brakes.
If any hydraulic connections have been opened, bleed brake system.
Check master cylinder fluid level, and replenish as necessary.
Check brake pedal for proper feel and return.
Lower vehicle and road test. Do not severely apply brakes immediately after installation of new brake linings or permanent damage may occur to linings, and/or brake drums may become scored. Brakes must be used moderately during first few hundred miles of operation to ensure proper burnishing of linings
DIY: Drum Brakes
Type 2:
Lightly lubricate support plate shoe contact surfaces with suitable brake lube.
Position leading shoe return spring on shoe, then while holding shoe away from support, engage return spring in support plate and swing shoe end into position under anchor.
Install parking brake lever on trailing shoe.
Install trailing shoe return spring on shoe, then while holding shoe away from support, engage return spring in support plate and swing shoe end into position under anchor.
Spread shoes apart and install adjuster screw assembly. Ensure forked end enters the leading shoe with curved tines facing down.
Using a suitable pair of pliers, install hold-down springs and shoe to anchor springs.
Pull back parking brake cable return spring slightly to expose cable, then slide parking brake cable into parking brake lever and release spring.
Install brake drum and bearings. Refer to individual car chapter for wheel bearing adjustment procedure.
Adjust brakes.
Install tire and wheel assembly.
If any hydraulic connections have been opened, bleed brake system.
Check master cylinder level, replenish as necessary.
Check brake pedal for proper feel and return.
Lower vehicle and road test. Do not severely apply brakes immediately after installation of new brake linings or permanent damage may occur to linings and/or brake drums may become scored. Brakes must be used moderately during first several hundred miles of operation to ensure proper burnishing of linings.
Type 3:
Lightly lubricate anchor plate shoe contact surfaces with suitable brake lube.
Assemble automatic adjuster screw assembly, return spring and shoe-to-shoe spring to brake shoe assembly.
Position lining assembly near anchor plate, then assemble parking brake lever to trailing shoe webbing. Secure with C-clip.
Install lining assembly onto anchor plate. When positioned, back off adjuster nut to seat brake shoe ends in wheel cylinder.
Install hold-down springs.
Position adjuster lever, then using suitable pliers, install adjuster lever spring.
Install brake drum and bearings.
Adjust brakes.
Install tire and wheel assembly.
If any hydraulic connections have been opened, bleed brake system.
Check master cylinder level, and replenish as necessary.
Check brake pedal for proper feel and return.
Lower vehicle and road test. Do not severely apply brakes immediately after installation of new brake linings or permanent damage may occur to linings and/or brake drums may become scored. Brakes must be used moderately during first several hundred miles of operation to ensure proper burnishing.
Brake Adjustment:
Remove rubber adjusting hole covers from brake supports.
NOTE: Some adjustment holes are in the backing plate and some are in the drum. Some are pre-cut and others need to be opened. You will see a partially stamped cutout in either the drum or backing plate. To open the hole, use a hammer and chisel to pop out the cutout. When you are done, be sure to install rubber covers to keep water and dirt from entering.
Release parking brake and back off cable adjustment to slacken cable.
Step on the brake five or six times to seat the shoes.
Insert a narrow screwdriver into adjusting nut hole. Move screwdriver handle downward on left side or upward on right side until wheels are locked.
Back off nut 10 clicks.
Adjust parking brake
This job will require a moderate skill level. If you do not feel comfortable doing this job yourself, then I would recommend taking it to a qualified mechanic and have it done. It is not difficult to do, but getting springs and shoes into position can be tricky. Sometimes you'll wish you had three hands while you do this. Be patient and take your time and it will come together.
Start to finish, to do both sides, you can figure on about three hours to do the job. If you take the drums to the parts store to be resurfaced before you start, they will probably be ready by the time you are done
