Can't remove Lanos rotors!

[Rod Corkum]

I have a 2001 Lanos S 1.5-L non-ABS and am replacing brake rotors, drums, etc. Everything going smoothly until I tried to remove the front rotors. I followed the manual and have removed the caliper and the detent screw and it says rotor should just pull off. That isn't happening. I'd expect some resistance with all the rust of 9 years but even blows from a heavy hammer won't budge it. I don't have a wheel puller but tried a homemade attempt with a short length of heavy steel angle across the hub and two heavy 5" C-clamps grabbing the rotor and all that accomplished was breaking one of my C-clamps! Tried heating the rotor unsuccessfully (all I have is a small propane torch). Surprisingly both rotors are equally seized. I've changed rotors on previous vehicles but never encountered anything like this before - I would have expected some heavy hammer blows should have knocked them loose.

Anyone have any further suggestions before I have to give up totally and take it to a garage?

Rod Corkum
Nova Scotia, Canada

[Daniel]

When engineers write service manuals they always think that the equipment stays in mint condition forever. Bahhhh!
Try penetrating oil for some hours. Rotors have to come off.

Edit: Just a thought. One could perhaps try an electro-pneumatic drill in percussion mode only and equipped with an old SDS tool cut flat at the end. That will give lots of small shocks at rear of rotor.
Be also prepared to tow your car to workshop if this fail .

[Rod Corkum]

SUCCESS!!!

The penetrating oil finally did it. I had used some penetrating oil but obviously not the good stuff. I did a bit more searching on the Internet and most suggestions were the penetrating oil and a lot of hammering but I saw some places that recommended PB Blaster for penetrating oil. I admit I never heard of that but our local hardware/auto supply store actually had it. I think I probably squirted almost half a can into those two rotors yesterday with no results after a few hours however I went back at it again today and obviously the PB Blaster worked after sitting for 24 hours. A couple of heavy hits with a short handled sledge hammer knocked both of them off. (Hereafter, my workshop will always contain a can of PB Blaster!!!)

That was my last hurdle. I still have the rear to finish as soon as the new drums arrive but I've already had those off so there are no surprises there. Car should be back on the road next week providing the weather holds to finish the work (I'm an "outside in the driveway" mechanic and it's starting to get cold out there!)

Rod

[Daniel]

Congrats!
Usually I use WD-40. But I'll try to get a can of PB-Blaster. Never heard this brand until now.

Daniel

[daewooluvr]

Congrats!
Usually I use WD-40. But I'll try to get a can of PB-Blaster. Never heard this brand until now.

Daniel

PB-Blaster is great stuff, I always use it.

[Rod Corkum]

Daniel,

WD-40 was what I originally tried ... didn't work. Obviously PB Blaster is better.

Rod

[Daniel]

Daniel,

WD-40 was what I originally tried ... didn't work. Obviously PB Blaster is better.

Rod

Looking at safety data sheets for both products showed the difference indeed.
Will try to get PB Blaster.
Thanks,

[Trey05Woo]

A little late to this topic but6 PB Blaster is pretty impressive, there is another brand as well liquid wrench which has worked wonders for me.

TC you probably already got the car together but for future reference, next time clean the hub area where the rotors and rims mount with sand paper or wire brush, and apply some anti-sieze compound. Permatex makes it, you will never encounter another stuck rim/rotor again...