CRAZY Sound from my car...

drjdup · Post by **drjdup** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 2:57 pm

I don't know if one type of spindle is stronger than the other but I don't understand that we can loose a wheel like it happened to you.
You were lucky.

Daniel

It looks like with the one piece drum it's actually the washer behind the castle nut that holds the drum in place... not the castle nut directly... with the washer removed (on the good side) I could pull the drum right over the castle nut... so if we look back at the side shot of the damaged wheel/spindle notice that there is no washer behind the castle nut... that silver piece behind the castle nut is the inner piece of the outer bearing which shattered (apparently) allowing the wheel & drum to come off...

make sense?

Jarmar......................

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 5:06 pm

with the washer removed (on the good side) I could pull the drum right over the castle nut...

I didn't know that! Thanks.

If there were no washer behind the castle nut I don't understand why the wheel didn't come off immediatly. This washer must have a inner tooth that engages in the slit of the axle, preventing rotation and wearing against castle nut. Is it the case on the "good" side?

Daniel

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 9:58 pm

yeah the washer has a key that fits into the key way in the rear axle.

Big Jeff · Post by **Big Jeff** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:00 pm

daewoomofo wrote:yeah the washer has a key that fits into the key way in the rear axle.

that don't make much sence

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:05 pm

the "tooth" as it was called is actually a key. the slit in the axle is a key way.
kinda like this

Big Jeff · Post by **Big Jeff** » Mon Sep 22, 2008 10:06 pm

ok thats better i understand now

drjdup · Post by **drjdup** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 3:29 am

If there were no washer behind the castle nut I don't understand why the wheel didn't come off immediatly.

Also let me be clear... I could pull the drum over the castle nut with out the outer bearing in place... it won't come off if the bearing is in place and is in good shape... but in my case when the outer bearing shatters and there is no washer in place... the wheel comes off...

Now I'm having another problem... I need to find this "keyed washer" and for some reason I can't get the drum back on over the brake shoes... anyone ever had that issue?

Jarmar..............

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Tue Sep 23, 2008 9:47 am

you will need to take in the self adjuster on the brakes.

drjdup · Post by **drjdup** » Wed Sep 24, 2008 10:36 pm

Is there a trick to working these springs or is it all muscle...

Jarmar...........

*Update*

Got everything back on... doesn't feel as smooth as the driver side... I have a new problem though... My brake pedal is hitting the floor and almost not stopping... parking brake not effective either...???

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 2:02 am

now that its al together again, it needs to be readjusted. ive never been good at adjusting drums so i have no input on how to do it correctly, sorry.

Isaac · Post by **Isaac** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 3:38 am

when my friend and i changed my breaks. we kept pulling the hand break and resetting the lever. that could be a way to adjust the breaks

have hand break down, and pull up, reset and Repeat
Hope this helps

Daniel · Post by **Daniel** » Thu Sep 25, 2008 7:42 am

drjdup wrote: >
Jarmar...........

*Update*

Got everything back on... doesn't feel as smooth as the driver side... I have a new problem though... My brake pedal is hitting the floor and almost not stopping... parking brake not effective either...???

You have lost some brake fluid from brake cylinder and possibly air was entering system. Did you bleed your brakes?
When bleeding don't let brake pedal go to floor or you can damage seals in master cylinder. Limit pedal travel to half way. Watch fluid level!

After bleeding you should hear a clicking sound from self adjuster system when you press brake pedal untill brake shoes are adjusted. After that you must have recovered full brake power.

Daniel

lanowoo · Post by **lanowoo** » Fri Sep 26, 2008 5:15 pm

I really haven't done much rear brakework, but most of your problem with the hard /no good breaking part is that you need to bleed all the brake lines, and on previous cars i've had breakwork done on, is to drive in reverse and stop a while and maybe using the e-brake in reverse may help some with the ebrake problem, like move back in reverse and use only the ebrake to stop, some cars have a self- adjusting ebrake mechanism in the rear of the drum, the more you use the ebrake in reverse, the tighter the mechanism adjusts, i'm not sure if this is the case. Also, you can adjust the ebrake cable from either tightening the slack in the cable. I think you can adjust the cable from the console (can't remember if the adjusting brackets are in the middle of the console, at the end of the ebrake handle, or is on the bottom of the car). Try them both and let me know if this helps any.

Sorry if i couldn't be of any real help.

drjdup · Post by **drjdup** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 6:10 pm

Thanks guys for all you help... I was able to tighten the adjuster by hand and it felt a lot better... I haven't had time to bleed the brakes so I took it up to a lil shop to have em do it for me while I'm at work here...

I should have went with my right mind and just waited until I could get to it... So now I feel taken because I get a call and he tells me the master cylinder & brake booster is shot all of a sudden... From what I uderstand they vary rarely go out unless you have some sort of leak and you've been driving with air in the system for a while... I have had no leak and haven't been driving this thing at all since all this happened... so how can a master cylinder get shot like that?

I don't want jump to any conclusions about fraud here but this to me seems rediuclous...

Jarmar..................

update:
I picked the car up and it feels exactly the same as before I left it there...

lanowoo · Post by **lanowoo** » Wed Oct 01, 2008 11:28 pm

Master Cylinders in my experience go bad if their the cause of air getting into the system. Brake booster.. i haven't fooled much with. I've had to keep filling my Master Cylinder with 2-3 bottles of brake fluid while bleeding the brakes. I don't know about the Lanos brake system since i haven't had to fool with it besides making sure the fluid is topped off. Some break boosters have a bleed screw for them and again not sure about on the lanos. Do you see any brake fluid on the ground where you park your car? There could be a crack, or a loose connection somewhere between the master cylinder and / or brake booster. Maybe a test to try is to put wax paper or white poster board underneath the car in like a garage or something and let the car idle while depressing on the brakes for a while and then turn the car off and go do something else while you wait an hour or so. Then when you get done, you can see if there's any leaks or cracks in something that can be dripping break fluid if there is brown/wet spots on the poster board.

Also,the brake booster is operated by vacuum, make sure that the vacuum hose from the front of the brake booster is connected to the throttle body, without that, the brakes petal would be like pressing down on air.

I'd also check the wheel cylinder for the wheel that had the wheel problem. Now, if you had the brake fluid reservoir empty, you would need to bleed all the brakes. It took me 32 oz of brake fluid to bleed 2 brake lines. Now, if your having problems bleeding the brakes, another way that you can bleed breaks, is take a bottle of brake fluid, dissconnect both sides of a brake line and stick the wheel's brake line in the bottle of brake fluid and use a vacuum pump to pump and pull the air out of the line while sucking up new fluid and then reconnect and make sure the reservoir stays filled up and pump the pedal to push any remaining air out. To me it honestly seems like one of 2 things:

1) The wheel wasn't bled completely and air is in the line still.

2) There is air in more than one wheel.