carbon/kevlar clutch kits...
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carbon/kevlar clutch kits...
Well we finally have most of the clutch kits sorted out...
Right now we have 8.0" 1000lb pressure plates for the "flat" (.080" step) and 8.5" 1200lb pressure plates for the "pot " (.787" step).
The disks are avialable in 8.0" and 8.5" carbon/kevlar for both the 1"-14 and the 13/16(3/4")-24 input shafts.
Right now we have 8.0" 1000lb pressure plates for the "flat" (.080" step) and 8.5" 1200lb pressure plates for the "pot " (.787" step).
The disks are avialable in 8.0" and 8.5" carbon/kevlar for both the 1"-14 and the 13/16(3/4")-24 input shafts.
hehe I'm already on board for this behind the scenes....... but those are the first pics I've seen. Looks pretty nice.
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- greenbluewoo
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I'm with mocpac here. I've a general understanding why these are better, but, could you go into it in a bit more detail?
Their frictional force is greater right? Do they munch up the flywheel though? Would i be best going for a better flywheel too? And do they last longer than a normal clutch, driven in the same way day in day out?
Cheers man, Paul.
Their frictional force is greater right? Do they munch up the flywheel though? Would i be best going for a better flywheel too? And do they last longer than a normal clutch, driven in the same way day in day out?
Cheers man, Paul.
SAZ
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These are really good questions, I'll try and answer to the best of my ability but it you have about 10 minutes check out this video from Fidanza, they really didi a good job explaining the system.
This can also be found in the transmission section under Re: the "NEED TO KNOW" from Fidanza... Clutch Kits
This can also be found in the transmission section under Re: the "NEED TO KNOW" from Fidanza... Clutch Kits
Pir0 wrote: •Their frictional force is greater right? YES, because of the way this material reacts to pressure and heat the clamping ablilty is much greater than the OE organic disk.
•Do they munch up the flywheel though? NO, the C/K disk is very friendly to both the flywheel and driver. You'll never see the danamge that a ceramic disk causes with this kit.
•Would I be best going for a better flywheel too? NO, I always recommend a better flywheel but for engine performance reasons not because it's required
•Do they last longer than a normal clutch, driven in the same way day in day out? YES, The materials are very durable and would far out last the OE organic.
NOTE: Even thought the materials are far more durable than the EO type the disc can still "burn up" or glassed it just takes more abuse before it happens.
Cheers man, Paul.
Garrettgreenbluewoo wrote: •how much power would these handle? This disk is good for around 275-300hp without a problem it's the pressure plate that will limit the power more than the disk.
- Nubaroo
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Just a bumb question - in the video they refer to the "4puck" clutchplate as a kevlar type - from the colour on it, it looks like a copper clutch??? Can anyone explain the difference in behaviour between a copper and kevlar type??
Also what is the cost on one of these kevlar kits????
Also what is the cost on one of these kevlar kits????
Nothing is impossible....it just costs more!!!!\
No matter how much money you spent on ur car.....there will always be sombode FASTER!!!!
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No matter how much money you spent on ur car.....there will always be sombode FASTER!!!!
368KW/611Nm on wheels @ 2.4bar
- PrecisionBoost
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Kevlar is yellow in color....which is what these pucks look like... copper is usually darker.
Don't quote me on this but I belive Kevlar has a better "slippage" than copper/ceramic.
That is to say a Kevlar clutch is streetable because it has a small amount of slippage before grabbing where as most of the copper/ceramic clutches just grab and stick.... making it hard to start off in 1st gear... and you tend to get chatter.
I'm pretty sure the copper content is there not so much for a friction coefficent as it is to help distribute heat (get rid of hot spots) and increase the overall temperature handling characteristics of the clutch.
Don't quote me on this but I belive Kevlar has a better "slippage" than copper/ceramic.
That is to say a Kevlar clutch is streetable because it has a small amount of slippage before grabbing where as most of the copper/ceramic clutches just grab and stick.... making it hard to start off in 1st gear... and you tend to get chatter.
I'm pretty sure the copper content is there not so much for a friction coefficent as it is to help distribute heat (get rid of hot spots) and increase the overall temperature handling characteristics of the clutch.
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I think it would be around $50 or so but I would have to double check that.Nubaroo wrote:any idea what the shipping costs would be to SA???
I'll double check to see what sizes hubs are available but I think the 7/8 24 might be a long shot.xiaogary wrote:how abt 7.5 inch with 7/8 X 24 spline?
Garrett
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the advantages in the carbon/kevlar disk is that the carbon and kevlar both have great bite but the biggest advantage is that the kevlar has fantastic cooling properties which is where most of it's long life comes from.
this disk is perfect for the type of driving you described, it's what the disk is made for. the description you gave provides a good rule of thumb and here is how it would break down.
0% race/100% daily driver/commuter car = full "fibertough" or OE organic type disk
70% street/30% drag or road racing under 350hp = full carbon/kevlar, marcel, sprung hub
50% street/50% drag or road racing under 600hp = 4 puck kevlar, no marcel, sprung hub
25% street/75% drag or road racing under 700hp = 6 or 9 puck kevlar, no marcel, sprung hub
25% street/75% drag racing under 700hp = ceramic 4 puck, no marcel, sprung hub
0% street/100% drag racing under 800hp = ceramic 6 or 9 puck, no macel, sprung hub
0% street/100% drag racing over 800hp = ceramic "button" type, no marcel, no sprung hub
these figures are approximations and the complete system (flywheel and pressure plate) will have an effect on how a disk will apply to the chart.
Garrett
this disk is perfect for the type of driving you described, it's what the disk is made for. the description you gave provides a good rule of thumb and here is how it would break down.
0% race/100% daily driver/commuter car = full "fibertough" or OE organic type disk
70% street/30% drag or road racing under 350hp = full carbon/kevlar, marcel, sprung hub
50% street/50% drag or road racing under 600hp = 4 puck kevlar, no marcel, sprung hub
25% street/75% drag or road racing under 700hp = 6 or 9 puck kevlar, no marcel, sprung hub
25% street/75% drag racing under 700hp = ceramic 4 puck, no marcel, sprung hub
0% street/100% drag racing under 800hp = ceramic 6 or 9 puck, no macel, sprung hub
0% street/100% drag racing over 800hp = ceramic "button" type, no marcel, no sprung hub
these figures are approximations and the complete system (flywheel and pressure plate) will have an effect on how a disk will apply to the chart.
Garrett