Arp bolts. waste of time?

debo890 · Post by **debo890** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:10 pm

how many of you think the arp bolts are a waste of time? be honest.
well if you do i have some thing to show you that will have most of you running to 360 dynamics and placing an order for them if you are running slightly over N/A. also if you are always exploring the redline you might want to know this.
i am first taking a poll. i will have your jaws dropping when i am done :twisted: . pics will be posted after poll or as soon as i get home.
TIP: i just opened my engine today and i spelt ARP

.

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Wed Apr 27, 2005 10:55 pm

I belive that ARP bolts are better than stock.

Also keep in mind that there are multiple grades of ARP bolts and they need to be tightened in a very specific manner (stretch gauge method as opposed to torque method )

debo890 · Post by **debo890** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:01 am

well here you are:

can you spell ARP?

"SMALL" chunks of my conrod and bearing. conrod shattered due to a conrod bolt comming loose. i never went past the redline but came real close. the little pice you see next to the stock bolts is a stock bolt broken in half.
this all happened below 4500rpm due to low oil pressure. now thik about a FI.

without Arp bolts, your engine would look just like mine.

number one cylinder journal.(burnt and nicked) culprit: low oil pressure.
reluctor wheel damaged.
block scraped at bottom of cylinder bore.

my bag of conrod chunk

if this dont persuade you, you reallt dont like your woo.
and no, i dont do publicity for 360 dynamics(just incase)
looking out for my woo bros.[/img]

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:10 am

Your pictures don't come up and even worse I get this stupid pop up asking for my Microsoft .NET passport.

I edited your post so that the pop up doesn't occur..... I must have clicked the X to make it go away about 20 times before I managed to get a chance to hit the edit post button.

Perhaps you should upload them onto Daewootech instead.

Post by **Efratech** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:30 am

In a UK forum i always read that stronger rod bolts is a MUST on these engines. specially if you're running over the standard rev limit (like i will) or running boost.

A friend EVO had a boy last sartuday night (a conrod snapped and came out making a huge hole in the block) also rod bolts are a must on EVO engines due to the same thing.

Tom, those ARP bolts for the 2.0 series are the same for the XE's?

Efrain.

debo890 · Post by **debo890** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:13 am

all better now. sorry. pic are loaded to daewootech.

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:29 am

If i knew how to install the bolts i would have done that already... damn you scared the shit outta me.. I hit 7k rpms every once in awhile when i down shift from a straight away (my mistake).

Wish i knew someone that would help me install them

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 4:47 am

They are pretty much straight forward to replace. The tools needed are:

- basic set of metric tools
- torque wrench
- container with compressed air to blow out debris from the threads.

STEPS:

- drain oil, place vehicle on jackstands
- remove oil pan
- remove factory connecting rod bolts and replace with ARP units
- torque to specs
- repeat on remaining 3 conrods
- reinstall the sump
- refill engine with oil

This should not take more than an hour, and every automotive shop should be able to to this for you.

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 1:15 pm

How much should it cost for a shop to do it?

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 1:32 pm

kinkyllama wrote:How much should it cost for a shop to do it?

You should not be charged more than an hour of shop labour.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:43 pm

i hit the rev limiter almost every day on my car... i got the 1.5 SOHC.

how vulnerable am i to what happend to you debo??? i am scared now

PS: my engine is 100% stock.

MMamdouh

debo890 · Post by **debo890** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 2:58 pm

you are most vulnerable with stock bolts, fi, and low iol pressure like i had.
i still have half a conrod in the engine that i have to remove.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:02 pm

thank you for scaring me even more

(j/k)

MMamdouh

debo890 · Post by **debo890** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 3:37 pm

mmamdouh wrote:thank you for scaring me even more (j/k)

MMamdouh

your well come. :twisted:

:twisted:
alot more pic to come so stand by. this is just part of it. by this sunday i should have the engine apart(i have to get some tools from pepboys

).
most likely, i am going to need a new engine.

oil pump - low oil pressure - relif valve? or gears - $$$$
crankshaft - burnt and nicked journals - machine shop repairable? - $$$$
reloctor wheel - GONE - buy new one -$$$$
block - dinged end of bore - repairable? (overbore maybe) - $$$$
valve damage? - new valves - $$$$

OR

new block- fresh start - $$$$

the only good thing out of this is that i have the lets conrods comming in the mail before i found out this mess.
pistons and rods - i am not so worried of
Block and other components - i am shaking right now
also my engine did not have a lower engine block support

why? i dont know. so most likely my crankshaft bolts would have to be changed due to stress.

Rob@RSC · Post by **Rob@RSC** » Thu Apr 28, 2005 4:17 pm

wow some cracking scare-mongering here

also, if you simply fit the ARP bolts you will have more stress points on the caps than stock bolts - you need to check clearance and radius the edge of the cap bolt hole if required so the head of the bolt is properly seated

also the standard rev limit is there to protect the engine, stop worrying about hitting it, your engine wont suddenly implode if you get to the limit

thats about it, if you install them correctly then they are stronger than standard bolts, but unless your spec warrants an increased rev limit you probably dont need them