guys, do you think the nubi block can handle 14-20psi of boost without knocking a hole in the block? also, what do you think about resleeving the block(cost-a-arm to do). if anyone knows where to if it cheaper let me know. expencive: $1000-up , cheap: free-$600 :P . hit me up soon.
what can a nubi's crank shaft handle? (hp wise?).
food for tought:
i read that the new ponitac gto and chevy malabu uses an opel engine. which one?, i dont know. i have not done my research on it.
I've been thinking about AEBS sleeves.... they have been proven to 55psi.
I'm sure 20psi on the stock block shouldn't be a problem... there are a few guys out there in this range on the C20GET block
For the kind of HP I'm looking for I'm thinking I may need as much as 45psi on race gas.
I was also considering filling up the water jacket with something hard such as an epoxy or cement.
I haven't decided what to do yet..... this engine is only for racing so I'm thinking it shouldn't be a problem to fill up the water jacket.
Then again if I bore out the cylinder walls 1/8" and drop in sleeves then I won't have to worry about the block splitting as the cylinder sleeves will take all the force.
The AEBS sleeves are expensive but probably worth the money.
I was also thinking about stroking the 2.2L to 2.4L or 2.6L but it all depends on how much clearance there is in the bottom area of the cylinders.
As far as the crank.... nobody knows because nobody has broken one.
It has a GM part number so it's possible that it might cross over to a something like a C20XE.... which should have some kind of horsepower figure based upon modified engines in the UK/Europe
For starters get the block sonic checked for core shift. Most good engine machine shops should have this equipment. They check to see if the cylinder walls are thick enough for the application. You can do some rough calculations to determine what thickness you need the cylinder walls to be if you have a rough idea of what the cylinder pressures vs crank angle are (I use the Pro-Racing engine simulators for this, not as good as the Ricardo stuff or MANDYs but very useful). If you take the block as having 35,000 psi UTS (common figure for automotive cast iron) and use the classical formulea for a cylinder under pressure (with the boundry conditions set for minimal deflection to ensure ring sealing) you should be able to come up with a minimum wall thickness.
You can fill the bottom of the water passages with a US product called Hard Blok. The blocks on the LET's get filled level with the water pump hole in the block. Works very well at 500-600hp.
One thing to consider about the XE/LET crank vs the Daewoo/Euro Ecotec item is that the XE/LET crank has eight flywheel bolts rather than six. This means more power can be transmitted. ARP flywheel bolts are available too.
Stef
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
I'm most likely getting a custom crankshaft made anyways.... I doubt the stock one will withstand 500hp.... I was thinking of going to smaller journals... many of the race engines are using the Honda journal size now.
I was thinking about X-Raying the block as I am a supplier for the industrial radiography industry and it would be easy for me to do.
I'm sure ultrasonic testing would work but you can't see the thickness like you can with an X-Ray
Do you know where I could get my hands on a simulator like the one you are talking about ???
I pulled out my engineering thermodynamics text to see if I could do some cylinder pressure calculations but that was one course I really really sucked at.
I was thinking of extending the block to get a better rod angle (longer rods) and I was also considering stroking it to 2.3L or 2.4L (if there is enough clearance on the bottom end )
I'm sure this will be a pain but I really do want to see if I can beat 625hp.
I still don't know if it's possible but I'd be happy with anything over 300hp.
debo890 wrote:
food for tought:
i read that the new ponitac gto and chevy malabu uses an opel engine. which one?, i dont know. i have not done my research on it.
the pontiac GTO is a rebadged holden monaro, with a ls1 and over here you used to be able to get it with a buick 3.8l V6
330w carbon kevlar
you'd better believe thats a paddlin
"a woman is like a refridgerator, bout 6ft tall, 300 pounds........."
guys, do you think the nubi block can handle 14-20psi of boost without knocking a hole in the block? also, what do you think about resleeving the block(cost-a-arm to do). if anyone knows where to if it cheaper let me know. expencive: $1000-up 
, cheap: free-$600 :P . hit me up soon.
