Currently I'm running a 35 shot in my car...and as you can imagine, that simply isn't enough. I know I can comfortably and safely upgrade to the 50 shot, and it's about time I do so. NOS says no change needs to be done for the stock motor to run a 35 shot, but if I want to run a 50 shot, that I need anywhere from 0-2 degrees of timing retard or colder plugs. Since I don't race the car much, and 98% of my time is spent off nitrous, I don't want to invest in adjustable cam gears. However, the plugs are something that I can do. What does the whole "one heat range colder" mean. Does it mean a smaller gap? A different plug altogether? Can someone throw a part number at me?
Do you guys recommend any plugs? I've always used the NGK V-Power in both of my Daewoos, and I have no complaints, but if I'm going to be running Nitrous, I figure I can upgrade to something a little better. What are your guys views of Platinum or Iridium plugs? NGK, Bosch, E3? I know NGK has G-Power and the Iridium plugs, and NGK can't go wrong in my book. I ran the single-stem platinum Bosch plugs in my Lanos Sport for a while. I thought they were the cause of some hesitation, but it turned out to be a faulty ECU. Are the ones with triple and quadruple stems any better? What about those new E3 Diamondfires? Do they make a difference?
Thanks for your help guys!
New Spark Plugs for Nitrous.
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- BosnianLanos
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- PrecisionBoost
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Adjustable cam gears change the timing of the valvetrain events, I belive that the ignition timing still comes off the crankshaft ring ( as do the injector pulses )
So the only way to get ignition retard is to upgrade to an MSD system with that option and a driver to convert the signal output from your ECU
I would forget about platinum and iridium plugs and stick with the V-Power NGK as they are ultra reliable.
Your standard NGK V-Power plug for the lanos is a BKR6E-11 so you will want a BKR7E-11 for nitrous applications.
So the only way to get ignition retard is to upgrade to an MSD system with that option and a driver to convert the signal output from your ECU
I would forget about platinum and iridium plugs and stick with the V-Power NGK as they are ultra reliable.
Your standard NGK V-Power plug for the lanos is a BKR6E-11 so you will want a BKR7E-11 for nitrous applications.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
I've always had good results with NGK plugs. For the first little while I used the regular copper ones with heat range 7. At the reccomendation of my shop I upgraded to NGK Iridiums heat range 8 (BKR8EIX). Ran great for a full year and 30,000km with LOTS of boosting lol. As for what the heat ranges mean, I suggest you start off reading this tech article from NGK (they explain the heat rating on page2).
The plugs are an easier option than trying to retard the timing IMO.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... p?mode=nml
The plugs are an easier option than trying to retard the timing IMO.
http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/tech_suppo ... p?mode=nml
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
- BosnianLanos
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@PrecisionBoost: You're right. I got my ideas confused, I would need an ignition retard, but I'm not looking to fiddle around with the MSD system, especially with something as simple as NOS. V-Power it is, and thanks for the part number. If I ever decide to go for a higher shot or if I'm ever left with enough free time to do a turbo system, I'll be on you for the blueprints as to how to adapt the MSD system.
@exist3nce: Thanks for the article, it answers my questions regarding what heat ranges are, but it rose a few more questions...
Heat ranges are different depending on the length of the ceramic insulator in the spark plug. The ceramic needs to be a certain temperature in order for the spark plug to be able to burn off the carbon and deposits. If the tip isn't hot enough, the grit could lead to premature death of the spark plug. I assume they want a better heat range because the nitrous raises the temperature of the cylinder and would damage the weaker plug quicker. Since I won't be running nitrous 24/7, will my plugs foul quicker because they aren't getting hot enough? Will I have to replace them more readily? Will the new plugs have any affect on my N/A engine output?
I assume my answers are Yes, yes, and no, but it's good to check!
@exist3nce: Thanks for the article, it answers my questions regarding what heat ranges are, but it rose a few more questions...
Heat ranges are different depending on the length of the ceramic insulator in the spark plug. The ceramic needs to be a certain temperature in order for the spark plug to be able to burn off the carbon and deposits. If the tip isn't hot enough, the grit could lead to premature death of the spark plug. I assume they want a better heat range because the nitrous raises the temperature of the cylinder and would damage the weaker plug quicker. Since I won't be running nitrous 24/7, will my plugs foul quicker because they aren't getting hot enough? Will I have to replace them more readily? Will the new plugs have any affect on my N/A engine output?
I assume my answers are Yes, yes, and no, but it's good to check!