N/A tunning 2.0L

[exist3nce]

Another thing I would suggest is good engine management. Kiny runs an SMT-6 which is a little hard to come by but is absolutely wonderful for our little cars. I personnally run an AEM standalone which is a great help for when the car is dynoed. Kinky I agree with you that slapping on a turbo isnt as much fun as building a strong N/A car.

hahah nothing against NA cars, but I find turbo much more fun, especially when the car was never meant for turbo

[logikal]

They are def. fun, but a turbo also makes a motor very unreliable, not all turbos, but most. Turboing a non turboed car adds more moving parts to it which makes it more complicated. The more complicated a motor is, the more that can go wrong. I mean look at a Jet engine, they are very very simple but can last and last for ages if maintaned. But it is true, nothing beats the sound of a BOV at redline. VVVRRRRROOOOOOMMMMMM PPPPSSSSHHHHH.

[exist3nce]

yes it may be less reliable and harder to tune, but its easier to make more power.......... NA performance gets really really expensive after the first basic stuff like intake, exhaust, header, cams, etc.

[logikal]

Agreed 100%. But I enjoy a challenge. Making 300 horsepower reliably is much harder then just making 300 horsepower FI. But props to your numbers with the turbo.

[exist3nce]

Agreed 100%. But I enjoy a challenge. Making 300 horsepower reliably is much harder then just making 300 horsepower FI. But props to your numbers with the turbo.

Thanks man. The setup is actually being revamped quite a bit right now........ I hope to see 200whp this summer. At the moment we're going for 180whp with a much better powerband and improved driveability compared to before (see my ongoing thread for all the details). This project has by no means been easy or cheap, but I don't regret it as I have learned alot.

[tallkid]

hey guys, i was told to go to this forum by suzuki-forums to query about this...

i'm also looking to go with an N/A tune. all i'm really looking for right now is some information on this topic...from what i understand, you need to take the crank and conrods from a smaller engine(and keep the same piston size) to increase your displacement.

all i really know is that i need different conrods and a different crankshaft. and since i'm going that deep into the engine, i might as well get high compression pistons. cams, electronics, and bigger injectors are on my list before i do the procedure...anyways, i'm wondering if i need to take the parts from the 1.8L or the 2.2L (bigger or smaller). i'd also like to know if anyone knows where to get a hold of the parts.

my car is a 2006 suzuki reno. i currently have a custom CAI that goes just behind the foglight cover(which i cut a nice sized hole in for more air), a 2.25" cat back exhaust to a Borla Boomer muffler, and one of them 360dynamic pulleys...

any help would be much appreciated.

[gse_turbo]

your crank is fine, there's no need for a new one.

you should go to importperformanceparts.net, look under the Opel make, and order Toga H-beam connecting rods for the 2.0 16v.

then i can get Wiseco race pistons at 12.0:1 with rings and floating pins for $500.

between the rods and pistons you'll likely spend $1000 for everything including bearings.

i am ordering a ton of MLS head gaskets from Spain, you'll likely need on of those also $85

garrett

[tallkid]

sweet deal. do the pistons come with the bearings? are the head gaskets thicker/thinner than stock, or just stronger?

thanks for the info. it'll be a while before i do any of this. i've got other plans and ideas first.

[gse_turbo]

you will have to get the bearings seperate but Clevite77 offers a set and Clevite bearings are really good.

the gasket is the same thickness just stronger. then again, you might like using the OE head gasket as a 'weak link' so to say. so that if there's a detination issue, the gasket gives out before other damage.

garrett