kinkyllama wrote:I'd look into getting a qualife lsd from Chip. It's a bit pricing but makes it sooo much easyier to drive. Even if I wasnt on the track I'd get one if I could spare the money. It's much more safe to drive because the cars easy to control under accel.
So when Is this going to be done anyways? Or at least when are we gonna see the baseline dyno?
Well I took it in tonight and they said they will start work on it on Monday. So I'd expect the dyno to happen mon-tues next week. They will be taking lots of pictures in my absence so it should be well documented. I wish I could be there every day to see every step, but unfortunately I have to work to pay for this whole thing
EDIT: it will be interesting to compare our stock dyno numbers.
Sorry no dyno numbers or anything to report yet, the shop has been very busy and hasn't really had time to do much with my car. On a side note, does anyone have service manual (or at least wiring digagrams / sensor voltages etc) for the 2.0L DOHC ? This would help out alot so they would not have to find everything out by experiment. It would also allow this whole project to go faster.
exist3nce wrote:Sorry no dyno numbers or anything to report yet, the shop has been very busy and hasn't really had time to do much with my car. On a side note, does anyone have service manual (or at least wiring digagrams / sensor voltages etc) for the 2.0L DOHC ? This would help out alot so they would not have to find everything out by experiment. It would also allow this whole project to go faster.
I think someoen on suzuki-forums has one. Try searching first though
Finally some updates, they've been really backlogged. This past weekend they did all of the designs for piping and IC and have ordered the parts. The manifold will be stainless with a mild steel flange. The IC will support up to 350hp and the turbo (t3/t4) is good for over 24psi. They say they will dyno it soon, I'll post the numbers when they do.
On a side note, the guy says he will also likely design a 4-2-1 style header (stainless) for this engine while hes working on it. Anyone here staying NA and interested in a header for the 2.0 DOHC? Also after this whole project is done on my car, he is interested in selling the works (or pieces if it eg. manifold) as a bolt on turbo kit if people are interested.
Efrain A. wrote:because its been proved that they can let go under stress of high revs and under high boost engines.
but hey its safety too. you dont want to break an engine for not speding some 150 usd on some ARPs
i do not agree with the fact that ''There is also the suspicion that some stock rod bolts were not properly tightened at the factory''
From what I understand the stress on the bolts should increase substantially the higher you rev. I don't plan to change my redline of 6500 rpm and only plan for 8psi. I'm not saying I won't get them, but this is the first thing I've seen saying otherwise.
Efrain A. wrote:because its been proved that they can let go under stress of high revs and under high boost engines.
but hey its safety too. you dont want to break an engine for not speding some 150 usd on some ARPs
i do not agree with the fact that ''There is also the suspicion that some stock rod bolts were not properly tightened at the factory''
From what I understand the stress on the bolts should increase substantially the higher you rev. I don't plan to change my redline of 6500 rpm and only plan for 8psi. I'm not saying I won't get them, but this is the first thing I've seen saying otherwise.
The reason everyone thinks its so important is someone on this bored snapped there bolts (Maybe more than one person) on low psi.
What are you doing about the clutch anyways? I dont think it has a chance in hell. My 2nd clutch in 50k miles (it had around 15k on it) was starting to slip with the few mods I had in 2nd and sometimes 3rd.
Efrain A. wrote:because its been proved that they can let go under stress of high revs and under high boost engines.
but hey its safety too. you dont want to break an engine for not speding some 150 usd on some ARPs
i do not agree with the fact that ''There is also the suspicion that some stock rod bolts were not properly tightened at the factory''
From what I understand the stress on the bolts should increase substantially the higher you rev. I don't plan to change my redline of 6500 rpm and only plan for 8psi. I'm not saying I won't get them, but this is the first thing I've seen saying otherwise.
The reason everyone thinks its so important is someone on this bored snapped there bolts (Maybe more than one person) on low psi.
What are you doing about the clutch anyways? I dont think it has a chance in hell. My 2nd clutch in 50k miles (it had around 15k on it) was starting to slip with the few mods I had in 2nd and sometimes 3rd.
Who had them snap?
Clutch I'm leaving stock for now, I haven't had any problems with it after 40,000 KMs. If it gets bad I'll change it for something better. I'm generally not that hard on it.
Yes, but you do not have the LET motor, but U20SED. LET uses different rod bolts out of the factory when compared with U20SED. They are same in shape, size etc, but they are different part number.
