lanos 1.6 dohc turbo fuel/tuning help!!!!
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
lanos 1.6 dohc turbo fuel/tuning help!!!!
hi guys, im having problems with my tuning have any of you guys been able to bypass the map sensor from throwing codes from boost , with my safc2 piggy back, nubira injectors, walbro 255 pump, stock fuel regulator and rail, is there anything im missing please any advise or any changes i need i have a vortech rrfpr available and im @4psi only; my car cant seem to run smooth on boost, help?! thanks
- PrecisionBoost
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You absolutely need to use a check valve.... or it will throw codes at you all day long.
Check valves can be a funny thing..... sometimes they give delays that can cause the engine to run poorly when you let off boost.
Personally..... If I were you I would put out the cash to buy a "Missing Link universal MAP sensor check valve"
The missing link is a great unit.... they designed it specificly for this use and it's ultra quick in restoring vacuum when you let off boost.
Trust me on this one..... you won't regret it.
With what you have I'm sure you will be able to push some decent numbers..... you might want to consider water/meth injection if you plan to push it past 7psi.
You may also want to pick up a pyrometer just to make sure your not getting too hot.... but you seem to have lots of fuel.... so you could probably just run it nice and rich 10:1 to 11:1
You won't make as much power at 10:1 and it will spit out black smoke at full throttle.... but it will save your engine and keep it cool
If you don't get greedy and push the RPM into redline you might be able to get 12psi on stock internals.... just be carefull of the RPM.
Check valves can be a funny thing..... sometimes they give delays that can cause the engine to run poorly when you let off boost.
Personally..... If I were you I would put out the cash to buy a "Missing Link universal MAP sensor check valve"
The missing link is a great unit.... they designed it specificly for this use and it's ultra quick in restoring vacuum when you let off boost.
Trust me on this one..... you won't regret it.
With what you have I'm sure you will be able to push some decent numbers..... you might want to consider water/meth injection if you plan to push it past 7psi.
You may also want to pick up a pyrometer just to make sure your not getting too hot.... but you seem to have lots of fuel.... so you could probably just run it nice and rich 10:1 to 11:1
You won't make as much power at 10:1 and it will spit out black smoke at full throttle.... but it will save your engine and keep it cool
If you don't get greedy and push the RPM into redline you might be able to get 12psi on stock internals.... just be carefull of the RPM.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
- PrecisionBoost
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Here is a write up on the missing link so you can understand more about what it does...
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Tru ... 0234071430&
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/_Car-Tru ... 0234071430&
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
i have 6 check valves and for some reason it still reads it, i will check the missing link sensor will this help keep the map sensor from reading +pressure? also any of you guys have safc2 with your setup? any suggestion on the check valves are you guys using any specific? any help or advice appreciated.
oh should i run my fmu along with safc2 piggy if yes then the 10:1 disc for fmu ok?
oh should i run my fmu along with safc2 piggy if yes then the 10:1 disc for fmu ok?
- PrecisionBoost
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Regular check valves don't work half the time.... We pissed around with various valves and couldn't get the car to run right...... as soon as the missing link was put in everything became happy and the car ran very nicely.... I'm running it on one of my project cars ( Nubira ECU ) and the MAP sensor is happy at all times.
I have run a SAFC..... like many of the others... it has a limited ability to correct fuel via the MAP sensor ( especially if you have the MAP sensor blocked off from seeing boost )
One option you might want to consider is running a 2Bar GM Map sensor.... it will throw things off with respect to mid throttle but under full throttle you can compensate and you would no longer need a check valve.
I have the Voltage vs pressure curve somewhere on one of my computers...... basicly at 14.7psi absolute ( atmospheric ) it's only going to throw out 2.5V instead of 5V so it's going to move the engine lean.
In Closed loop that shouldn't be a problem.... the ECU should be able to compensate... plus you could allways increase your baseline fuel pressure.
Then at 14.7psi of boost (29.4psi absolute ) your 2 bar is going to read 5V which is what the stock sensor would at 14.7psi absolute.
I never got a chance to fool around with the idea of dropping a 2 Bar sensor..... one of these days I will throw it in one of my cars and see how it responds.
As far as the diaphram.... I'm using a variable 10:1 and it worked out great on my 2.0L engine with 10psi of boost.
I guess it depends on where you set your baseline fuel pressure..... mine is really low because I'm running 500CC injectors and it's stinking rich at idle ( rarely gets over 11:1 at idle )
Really it's just a matter of getting it on the dyno and seeing where your A/F is at.... and then adjust from there.
I have run a SAFC..... like many of the others... it has a limited ability to correct fuel via the MAP sensor ( especially if you have the MAP sensor blocked off from seeing boost )
One option you might want to consider is running a 2Bar GM Map sensor.... it will throw things off with respect to mid throttle but under full throttle you can compensate and you would no longer need a check valve.
I have the Voltage vs pressure curve somewhere on one of my computers...... basicly at 14.7psi absolute ( atmospheric ) it's only going to throw out 2.5V instead of 5V so it's going to move the engine lean.
In Closed loop that shouldn't be a problem.... the ECU should be able to compensate... plus you could allways increase your baseline fuel pressure.
Then at 14.7psi of boost (29.4psi absolute ) your 2 bar is going to read 5V which is what the stock sensor would at 14.7psi absolute.
I never got a chance to fool around with the idea of dropping a 2 Bar sensor..... one of these days I will throw it in one of my cars and see how it responds.
As far as the diaphram.... I'm using a variable 10:1 and it worked out great on my 2.0L engine with 10psi of boost.
I guess it depends on where you set your baseline fuel pressure..... mine is really low because I'm running 500CC injectors and it's stinking rich at idle ( rarely gets over 11:1 at idle )
Really it's just a matter of getting it on the dyno and seeing where your A/F is at.... and then adjust from there.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
i found one on ebay, just wondering are they universal or do we need a part# is this a decent valve from nippon?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D15-D16- ... enameZWDVW
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/D15-D16- ... enameZWDVW
- PrecisionBoost
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+smt7 is better for turbo, it doesn't have many advantages over the SMt6 if you aren't running boost.Big Jeff wrote:i think you find the SMT7 better as i think SMT6 is really for NA Cars
this is only base what i have heard and seen posted about
I sell both. The SMT6 is a group buy but I dont have 5 people that claim to be highly interested.
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
with a piggyback u dont need a check valve
just dont let it see 5v
if u had bigger injectors like 450cc
ur corrections on the safc would be like -50 and @ wot like -42 @ 4psi
thats how i tuned my car when it was @ 4 psi
2bar MAP would be the best
it will rise fuel as boost goes up
just dont let it see 5v
if u had bigger injectors like 450cc
ur corrections on the safc would be like -50 and @ wot like -42 @ 4psi
thats how i tuned my car when it was @ 4 psi
2bar MAP would be the best
it will rise fuel as boost goes up
Mitsubishi Eclipse GST 304whp 319tq @22psi w EVO 3 16G Daily Driven
DAEWOO Nubira 2.2L Turbo 217whp 204tq @13psi SOLD
i had the 2bar map sensor and had to take it out, car was runing very rough, what about the voltage signal to the ecu from the map sensor aren't different from the 1bar to 2 bar, wont that trigger check codes? i have with current setup walbro 255, and 2.0 nubira injectors, would replacing the injectors work? if so where or which 450cc injectors are available for the 1.6 lanos? thanks