aveo tuning??
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aveo tuning??
im trying to do some more research on turboing my aveo.
But im stumped on how to tune it correctly....theres a place here that does custom fabing so thats no problem to get a turbo kit on there.
There are a few possibilities ive thought of.
i know someone who knows how to hack into GM ecus and re tune them...could that work for tuning my aveo?
or is this a daewoo ecu and would that not work.
another is piggy backing which people say should work.
and another was finding a cobalt ecu and sending it in with an aveo ecu and having them retune that to work for the aveo and then tune it from there.
HELP! haha.
i wanna turbo this and wanna get the ball rolling
But im stumped on how to tune it correctly....theres a place here that does custom fabing so thats no problem to get a turbo kit on there.
There are a few possibilities ive thought of.
i know someone who knows how to hack into GM ecus and re tune them...could that work for tuning my aveo?
or is this a daewoo ecu and would that not work.
another is piggy backing which people say should work.
and another was finding a cobalt ecu and sending it in with an aveo ecu and having them retune that to work for the aveo and then tune it from there.
HELP! haha.
i wanna turbo this and wanna get the ball rolling
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- Location: Auburn, Washington
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- Posts: 51
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- Location: Auburn, Washington
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- PrecisionBoost
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With the Aveo's non-return fuel system it will be harder to make a "rough" tune.
I don't think there is much of a chance that someone will spend the time to crack and rewriting the newer Delphi ECU for use with a turbo..... there is virtually no market.... so why would anyone waist their time on modifying a very unique component such as this?
In my opinion the only way to go is with a piggyback unit such as the Greddy Emanage or Perfect Power SMT7
The SAFCII is ok for fine tuning but it won't help you manage the fuel map enough for a decent turbo system.
A standalone system such as the Megasquirt is a good way to go if you want total control over everything but it will cost a pile to have someone set it up and tune it.
So...... this is what you need....
1) Wideband O2 monitoring system
2) Pyrometer
3) Fuel and Ignition management ( ideally piggyback to reduce the amount of time to tune the system )
4) Possible upgrades of injectors and or fuel pump/fuel delivery system
5) Some type of system to allow for management of MAP sensor ( missing link or some other type of mechanical bleed valve to keep the stock MAP sensor from being damaged )
6) Digital Boost controller ( Greddy, HKS.... )
With this installed you should be able to tune the car yourself if you feel comfortable.
It's not that hard once you have a pyrometer and wideband..... you simply need a stretch of abandoned road to test your tuning.
It's pretty simply.... you just get a nice rolling start in 2nd gear.... allow the car to hit 1700 to 2000 RPM and then floor it.
You make sure you have a passenger..... and have them tell you if the car is running rich ( 10:1 ) or lean ( 15:1 or higher )
If you hit a lean spot you instruct the passenger to alert you and you back off throttle immediatly.
Then you simply log onto the system with your laptop and use the software to add fuel at the RPM point where you ran lean.
Then you try it again..... and you try and set up the entire run so the Air Fuel ratio is about 12.0:1 which should be a nice safe tune.
Some people try to push the Air Fuel up into the 13:1 range or higher....and there is definitly power to be had there...... but you risk your engine.
The other thing to watch is the Pyrometer..... because it will let you know if your engine is running "too hot"
basicly it's up to the passenger to watch it as your making your run..... for that matter you could have a second passenger who's job it is to keep an eye on the pyrometer.
I'd imagine that 1000 deg F would be nice and safe..... turbos will melt up into the 1800 deg F range (if your engine doesn't die first )
I wouldn't allow it to push past 1200 deg F ..... but you shouldn't see that unless your running 20+ PSI of boost.... which would require a pile of engine mods.
As far as ignition..... you should retard the timing slightly (via piggyback) to ensure that you don't have problems.
I'm not sure how much you'd need to retard the ignition..... it really depends on how well your engine is set up.
Anyways....... that's a rough guess at what you will need.
Main considerations........
What Octane level are you planning to run?
How much power are you looking to make?
Do you have money for engine modifications? ( such as low compression pistons )
Do you know a shop that has a good reputation for turbo installs?
I don't think there is much of a chance that someone will spend the time to crack and rewriting the newer Delphi ECU for use with a turbo..... there is virtually no market.... so why would anyone waist their time on modifying a very unique component such as this?
In my opinion the only way to go is with a piggyback unit such as the Greddy Emanage or Perfect Power SMT7
The SAFCII is ok for fine tuning but it won't help you manage the fuel map enough for a decent turbo system.
A standalone system such as the Megasquirt is a good way to go if you want total control over everything but it will cost a pile to have someone set it up and tune it.
So...... this is what you need....
1) Wideband O2 monitoring system
2) Pyrometer
3) Fuel and Ignition management ( ideally piggyback to reduce the amount of time to tune the system )
4) Possible upgrades of injectors and or fuel pump/fuel delivery system
5) Some type of system to allow for management of MAP sensor ( missing link or some other type of mechanical bleed valve to keep the stock MAP sensor from being damaged )
6) Digital Boost controller ( Greddy, HKS.... )
With this installed you should be able to tune the car yourself if you feel comfortable.
It's not that hard once you have a pyrometer and wideband..... you simply need a stretch of abandoned road to test your tuning.
It's pretty simply.... you just get a nice rolling start in 2nd gear.... allow the car to hit 1700 to 2000 RPM and then floor it.
You make sure you have a passenger..... and have them tell you if the car is running rich ( 10:1 ) or lean ( 15:1 or higher )
If you hit a lean spot you instruct the passenger to alert you and you back off throttle immediatly.
Then you simply log onto the system with your laptop and use the software to add fuel at the RPM point where you ran lean.
Then you try it again..... and you try and set up the entire run so the Air Fuel ratio is about 12.0:1 which should be a nice safe tune.
Some people try to push the Air Fuel up into the 13:1 range or higher....and there is definitly power to be had there...... but you risk your engine.
The other thing to watch is the Pyrometer..... because it will let you know if your engine is running "too hot"
basicly it's up to the passenger to watch it as your making your run..... for that matter you could have a second passenger who's job it is to keep an eye on the pyrometer.
I'd imagine that 1000 deg F would be nice and safe..... turbos will melt up into the 1800 deg F range (if your engine doesn't die first )
I wouldn't allow it to push past 1200 deg F ..... but you shouldn't see that unless your running 20+ PSI of boost.... which would require a pile of engine mods.
As far as ignition..... you should retard the timing slightly (via piggyback) to ensure that you don't have problems.
I'm not sure how much you'd need to retard the ignition..... it really depends on how well your engine is set up.
Anyways....... that's a rough guess at what you will need.
Main considerations........
What Octane level are you planning to run?
How much power are you looking to make?
Do you have money for engine modifications? ( such as low compression pistons )
Do you know a shop that has a good reputation for turbo installs?
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
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you rock! lolPrecisionBoost wrote:With the Aveo's non-return fuel system it will be harder to make a "rough" tune.
I don't think there is much of a chance that someone will spend the time to crack and rewriting the newer Delphi ECU for use with a turbo..... there is virtually no market.... so why would anyone waist their time on modifying a very unique component such as this?
In my opinion the only way to go is with a piggyback unit such as the Greddy Emanage or Perfect Power SMT7
The SAFCII is ok for fine tuning but it won't help you manage the fuel map enough for a decent turbo system.
A standalone system such as the Megasquirt is a good way to go if you want total control over everything but it will cost a pile to have someone set it up and tune it.
So...... this is what you need....
1) Wideband O2 monitoring system
2) Pyrometer
3) Fuel and Ignition management ( ideally piggyback to reduce the amount of time to tune the system )
4) Possible upgrades of injectors and or fuel pump/fuel delivery system
5) Some type of system to allow for management of MAP sensor ( missing link or some other type of mechanical bleed valve to keep the stock MAP sensor from being damaged )
6) Digital Boost controller ( Greddy, HKS.... )
With this installed you should be able to tune the car yourself if you feel comfortable.
It's not that hard once you have a pyrometer and wideband..... you simply need a stretch of abandoned road to test your tuning.
It's pretty simply.... you just get a nice rolling start in 2nd gear.... allow the car to hit 1700 to 2000 RPM and then floor it.
You make sure you have a passenger..... and have them tell you if the car is running rich ( 10:1 ) or lean ( 15:1 or higher )
If you hit a lean spot you instruct the passenger to alert you and you back off throttle immediatly.
Then you simply log onto the system with your laptop and use the software to add fuel at the RPM point where you ran lean.
Then you try it again..... and you try and set up the entire run so the Air Fuel ratio is about 12.0:1 which should be a nice safe tune.
Some people try to push the Air Fuel up into the 13:1 range or higher....and there is definitly power to be had there...... but you risk your engine.
The other thing to watch is the Pyrometer..... because it will let you know if your engine is running "too hot"
basicly it's up to the passenger to watch it as your making your run..... for that matter you could have a second passenger who's job it is to keep an eye on the pyrometer.
I'd imagine that 1000 deg F would be nice and safe..... turbos will melt up into the 1800 deg F range (if your engine doesn't die first )
I wouldn't allow it to push past 1200 deg F ..... but you shouldn't see that unless your running 20+ PSI of boost.... which would require a pile of engine mods.
As far as ignition..... you should retard the timing slightly (via piggyback) to ensure that you don't have problems.
I'm not sure how much you'd need to retard the ignition..... it really depends on how well your engine is set up.
Anyways....... that's a rough guess at what you will need.
Main considerations........
What Octane level are you planning to run?
How much power are you looking to make?
Do you have money for engine modifications? ( such as low compression pistons )
Do you know a shop that has a good reputation for turbo installs?
and the highest around here is 92 and thats what i would run with a turbo
im looking for 200-220hp when all said and done
i dont have money yet for engine mods like the pistons but ill be making more money here....can i have those made at a shop??
And i think there is a shop that should be good with turbos theyve done plenty on other chevys like impalas and what not...from my understanding there very reliable.
At the wheels or the crank ?AveoSSTurbo wrote:
im looking for 200-220hp when all said and done
2004 Optra/Forenza/Lacetti - 225whp - Haltech Sprint500 - CT12B - Getrag F28 6spd - KW V3 Coilovers - FX35 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
2002 IS300 5MT - 615whp - AEM EMS - GT4088R - Built 9.5CR - R154 - TRD LSD - SupraTT T/B - Varex - LS430 Retrofit
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your gonna need tranny upgrades too. The auto tranny is only good to about 200 hp at the crank...so maybe 180 at the wheels. and 200 torque at the crank as well...at least that's the gm rating for it. I don't know about the manual but I assume it's about the same maybe a little more if you are very easy on it.
Jimmy
Jimmy
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D20 should work with that power depending on what your doing and what tires your running
www.KinkyMotorsports.com
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama
04' Dropped Foreno
-Coil-overs, sway bars, 13" brakes, LSD, 235mm tires, the works
-Turbo in the works
01' Lanos Sport
-Undergoing 2.0 swap w/ lots of performance bits
http://www.cardomain.com/id/kinkyllama