What other work to the engine should I consider?

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:01 pm

Well I found an U20SED with 3,800miles on it for around $820 shipped to my door along with some other small bits I wanted that the seller threw in. So I'm going to start having them install my new internals and it'll be my turbo engine that I'll eventually put in. I figure while the engines in the shop and not in a car are there any other things I should consider having done? If you think if anything can you list the pros and cons and est. price? I'm looking to run 335crank hp tops at 7200rpm redline....Tom had them built for about 350crank in mind.

Also what should a shop charge to install these pistons and rods?

Here's the info for the pistons/rods I got from Tom:
"New Mahle C20LET, stock compression, std size. With rings, pins and clips. Tops are ceramic coated, while skirts are molybdenum coated. Pistons are balanced to 440 grams each.
New rods, debeamed and polished. Big end and small ends were resized. Rods come with ARP ProWave 2000 bolts and ARP Moly. Rods were balanced to 677 grams each.
These pistons were retaining proper 2-3 tho clearance on my block with 75000miles after honing and 86.35bores.

8.8:1 - 9.0:1 compression"

Ciao!
Danny

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:37 pm

i can't tell you what to do but i will tell you what i'm doing keeping in mind that i'm building a 2.2

• 2.2 block (not just for size but the 2.2 uses a main support) bored, honed and surfaced.
• ARP main studs 204-5402. (no spacers needed) http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8478 about $85
• 2.2 crank knife-edged, shot peened, polished and balanced. about $450
• 2.2 rods (for now) shot peened, polished, reconditioned, oil feed drilled and small end bored for floating pin and balanced. about $120
• wiseco pistons at 8.5:1 and 20 over, rings and floating pins. $420
• Z20LET MLS head gasket on order so i didn't have to mod a cometic. if you want to join in it's not too late. about $100
• lemans flywheel reconditioned and lightened 3LBS. about $100
• the head was rebuilt with big bore and multi-angle valves. not sure what i spent on that

that's about all i can think of for machine work. i also had the block checked for cracks and had the mains line checked.

for know i'm using the oe intake manifold so i had the EGR port in the manifold welded shut and the rest of the system caped off.

• tap the inlet end of the fuel rail and bypass the oe regulator

there was a lot more done but you're asking about machine work and this is what's off the top of my head.

hope you get some good ideas from this post.

garrett

kinkyllama · Post by **kinkyllama** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 8:57 pm

gse_turbo wrote:i can't tell you what to do but i will tell you what i'm doing keeping in mind that i'm building a 2.2

• 2.2 block (not just for size but the 2.2 uses a main support) bored, honed and surfaced.
• ARP main studs 204-5402. (no spacers needed) http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=8478 about $85
• 2.2 crank knife-edged, shot peened, polished and balanced. about $450
• 2.2 rods (for now) shot peened, polished, reconditioned, oil feed drilled and small end bored for floating pin and balanced. about $120
• wiseco pistons at 8.5:1 and 20 over, rings and floating pins. $420
• Z20LET MLS head gasket on order so i didn't have to mod a cometic. if you want to join in it's not too late. about $100
• lemans flywheel reconditioned and lightened 3LBS. about $100
• the head was rebuilt with big bore and multi-angle valves. not sure what i spent on that

that's about all i can think of for machine work. i also had the block checked for cracks and had the mains line checked.

for know i'm using the oe intake manifold so i had the EGR port in the manifold welded shut and the rest of the system caped off.

• tap the inlet end of the fuel rail and bypass the oe regulator

there was a lot more done but you're asking about machine work and this is what's off the top of my head.

hope you get some good ideas from this post.

garrett

I dont understand...You says your building a 2.2 but then you list things like "2.2 block", "2.2 rods", ect..which makes it sound like your putting 2.2 componets in another engine or using different 2.2 stuff. Can you clarify?

as for the z20let gasket I'm intrested. Ihaven't payed attention to that post...so the cometic one isn't a direct fit?

Why'd you do work to the crank? how much power are you looking at? Just from surfing the migweb forums it sounds like most our cranks can withstand 400bhp. Are there any advantages to the crank work you did besides just better stress handling and strength?

Whats the "oil feed drilled" purpose?

Also what about stiffer springs to handle the boost?

and what about the oil spray for cooling? Like Toms doing. Is it possible on my engine? I'm a huge fan of keeping things cool, and it's very important in AZ. I'd like to build this engine very very reliable for short and long term.

Thanks for your help!
Danny

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Tue Jun 05, 2007 9:25 pm

as far as listing all the 2.2 parts, i wanted to make it clear that i wasn't using a 2.2 block and 2.0 rotating assembly or after market parts.

the cometic gasket and the Z20 gasket are different cause the cometic piece is made for the early 16v heads not the ecotec heads.

the crank got work done for many reasons, for weight and faster spin up, for the ability to cut through the oil air in the block, to remove casting marks and imperfections.

i've see some high performance build R90 motors blow the crank cause they nitrite a cast iron crank which is a big no-no. nitriting is good for steel cranks but iron cranks need to be able to a bit 'softer' and a surface hardner makes an iron crank brittle.

the oil feeds on the con-rods are for the getting oil to the floating rist pin and extra oil to the rod bearing.

i'm building the motor a 'breakin' motor so i just had the valves cut and the springs shimmed for extra force, i'm also having solid lifters made.

as far as the oil sprayers, you and tom have the same block and the oil jets are a big upgrade with R90 blocks in the UK but i'm not using them at this point. if i find a kit that i like i might do it when i upgrade the rods and head.

the one oil sprayer that i ame using is a sprayer for the cams and lifters inside the valve cover.

hope this clears things up.

garrett

Post by **Efratech** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 1:46 am

theres a how to on how to put oil sprays on a "big block" on some site

as said the cosmetic is made for the LET/XE. get a z20let gasket.

if you can do the head. (port/polish).

if you're planning to just run about 325 at the fly (about 280 at the wheels).

with the right turbo you will be doing that with about 15~18psi.

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 9:53 am

not sure if you already had this in mind but i would get every thing mag particle inspected (magnafluxed) it will find small cracks in the metal so you can know if there is a rod or some thing that is more likely to fail.

gse_turbo · Post by **gse_turbo** » Wed Jun 06, 2007 4:46 pm

+1

i forget about the head, i did the same as tom and ported the exhaust in the shape of a triangle to remove the emitions restrictions. the header flange i sell is made with this in mind.

garrett