Lanos 2.0L engine mount

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sat Dec 23, 2006 12:23 am

For anyone who is interested in dropping a C20GET 2.0L turbo engine into their Lanos, you will need a different engine mount.

The application is a Pontiac Lemans 2.0 and the GM part number is 90289930

Currently the price of this engine mount is $33.00 USD from GMPARTSCHEAP.COM

Chris

whiteraven · Post by **whiteraven** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:27 am

Would this swap work for the Aveo/Kalos as well? Don't they share the same 1.6L engine?

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:35 am

The Aveo mount is central..... the lanos is in the front of the engine..... totally different mount system.

Unfortunatly this part has been discontinued... so it might be harder to find than I first thought.

I am planning on making some mounts.... but that might take a while considering how busy I am these days.

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Tue Jan 09, 2007 5:40 am

It's possible to use the center mount system with the C20GET but I'm not sure if it will work.

I guess we will see when our friend drops his C20GET into his Aveo ( which is at a race engine shop being rebuilt as we speak )

Hopefully the engine will be done by spring..... the race engine/machine shop is really busy.... Tom had quite a bit of work done there (balancing, some precision assembly work, boring, reaming, face machining and lots more) .... they do absolutely top of the line work.

Not the cheapest place in town by any stretch.... but you get what you pay for.

Our friend is a machinist himself..... so I'm sure he will be fabricating a new mount system for his C20GET.

mcewanslager2k2 · Post by **mcewanslager2k2** » Thu Jan 11, 2007 9:38 pm

hello

To swap a 2.0ltr 16v vauxhall redtop engine into a lanos, which engine/gearbox mount do i need?
I know its from a Kadett E, Astra GTE.

Please help

Andy

Post by **Efratech** » Fri Jan 12, 2007 3:05 am

easy as pie mate,

just use Astra GTE engine mounts

mcewanslager2k2 · Post by **mcewanslager2k2** » Sat Jan 13, 2007 5:24 pm

Cool
Cheers mate im on it!

Andy

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:17 am

Ok.... did some work today.... the prototype mount took me about 4 hours to fabricate.... but that includes a number of positioning jigs I made as I went along.

Unfortunatly the hole positions are not symetrical in any way.... so I had to build jigs that fit the factory mount to locate exact positions of where to drill holes on my stainless mount.

Made from 1/2" thick stainless steel..... not finished yet..... just have to add some extra support between the two pieces to ensure long term strength.

Kenny..... any comments??? You build mounts all the time..... I was going to weld in a triangular piece into the center.... roughly speaking I was going to use a 30 degree angle so that it goes fairly far down the main plate.

Next to my stainless mount is the factory mount.... it has quite a bit of ribbing.... but it's not that thick..... I pentrated about 1/4" on the back side ( cut a nice sized groove and filled with new material ) and I penetrated just about as far on the front side as well.

Audacity Racing · Post by **Audacity Racing** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:19 am

Looks pretty good. Definitely need a center span there. Want to FEA it for fun?

Send me a blueprint if you can and we'll see

Audacity Racing · Post by **Audacity Racing** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:23 am

After staring at this for a good 60 seconds... I have to wonder about the bolt mouting surface. I'm sure a lot of the strength comes form the fact that the bolts aren't in the same plane as the stress riser (rib). I'm curious to know how much flex you'd get out of that. I know using washers would help, but I have to wonder if the stress distribution by washers is enough to offset the non-linear stress run.

Definitely worth doing some FEA on

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:30 am

I was originally going to get a plasma cutter to cut this mount but things didn't work out..... so I went out and bought this....

http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/ ... rod=281173

It's crazy... I cut through 1/2" stainless plate just like I would with a nice hard piece of Fir 2 X 4

It took about 30 seconds to go 6"

The replacement blades are in around $60 USD.... they use CERMET tips just like you would find in milling machine inserts.... very tough stuff.

I managed to crack two teeth on the first cut ( 1/2" metal chunk fell onto the lower part of the blade as I finished cutting it) but it still cut just fine afterwards.

I bought it for $420 CDN which is around $350 USD..... great tool.

The place I bought it from has a 3 month no questions asked return policy.... the guy I talked to said I can bring it back any time and get my money back.... even if I've used it for 2.9 months.

Needless to say...... I'm going to take it back and get a new blade.... and if I chip it again... I will take back the whole unit and buy another one a few days later.

I would say it's the fastest metal cutting tool I've ever seen.... faster than plasma.... faster than bandsaw.... faster than waterjet.... and the cuts are pretty decent.... just have to be carefull at the very end of cutting.

I found that it's better to stop with 1/8" of material left and break the metal off.... especially with 1/2" because the plate is so heavy it falls into the blade right at the end.

I would definitly suggest this as a good investment for someone who does quite a bit of metal fabrication.... I bet it would make very short work of a car.... you can slice through nearly 3" of material.... just as good as a reciprocating saw but significantly faster.

I bet I could have a Lanos into 50 pieces within 20 minutes..... hmmm.... I might have to try that on my Lemans before I take the blade back..... convertable here I come

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:40 am

Ya.... I have some slight concerns about it.... it's the main engine mount and the way it's mounted most of the force is a torsional twisting.

I was thinking that adding another 1/2" X 1" tall piece on the inside where the two plates meet might help strengthen it a little where the mounting plate moves away from the block towards the frame mount.

I did not make a blueprint drawing for it.... right now everything is on wood patterns to ensure alignment of all holes.

One thing I was thinking about is the fact that the factory Lanos mount (on the frame) is a very squishy rubber.... I would imagine that would take most of the stress.

I didn't check to see if you were online.... but I was going to PM you to get your opinion... since your the most qualified to critique the mount.

I can place the rib anywhere on the surface.... or I could even add on two ribs one close to the top bolt and one close to the bottom bolt.

Audacity Racing · Post by **Audacity Racing** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:41 am

Nice. I hate plasma cutters and flames personally. If I have to make a part from plate it's milled, routed, or done with a waterjet.

I've never used that specific model, but cutting things like floor pans out is really easy with those, only thing you have to be carful of is that it is far more dangerous ins terms of flying debris and kickback than a plasma or sawzall. Never cut through thick plate though, haha... I figured you would have lost more teeth than that.

You are a prime candidate for the DIY CNC Router/Plasma machine

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:48 am

This is what I was thinking about with respect to the 1" thick piece of plate.... not to scale.... just a quick drawing.

I would think that it would stiffen up the mount significantly and I would imagine it would help to keep it from twisting.

I could also add a rib going toward the rear bolt that meets up with this 1" plate.

Or I could even mount the rib first and have two pieces of 1" plate at an angle on each side.... then I could support it on three axis.

Basicly.... I can do anything at this point.... I just wanted your opinion before I start any further welding.... as it stands all the holes and mounting surfaces are complete.... but I wasn't sure where to go with the support ribs.

Audacity Racing · Post by **Audacity Racing** » Sun Jan 14, 2007 5:51 am

I would extend your rib out firther onto the larger surface. I think it would be smarter to over-build the mount than to try and rely on the rubber as a support.

When you get a chance, draw me a close design, within reason, and I'll throw it in Ansys to see what loads you're looking at