8v Turbo Head Modifications.
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
8v Turbo Head Modifications.
Hi,
This is a summary of cylinder head development work I've been doing and posting on another forum.
I thought these pics of development work I've been doing may be of use to those who have turbocharged 2L 8v engines.
One of the key ways to get high power out these engines is with a good flowing cylinder head. The standard head is not too bad for it's class with reasonable valve sizes as standard and a good downdraft intake port. It's negative points are the dog leg exhaust port and it's emissions friendly open 'D' shaped chamber. The basic chamber is based on the 'bathtub' design which in terms of efficiency is worse than a 'wedge' chamber, which is worse than a 'hemi' head!
Starting with the chamber shape, we can't change the basic 'bathtub' arrangement. So we are limited on how much bigger the valves can go (not much - more on that later). However we can improve the chamber shape by making it a closed chamber. This gives us more squish which improves flame speed and knock resistance. In the US the factory GM turbo version of this engine used a different head casting that had a closed chamber as seen below.
Obviously this is going to be hard to get hold of in the UK. However we can modify the standard chamber and perhaps improve on the closed chamber design that GM used. To do this I looked at modern 2v per cylinder chamber designs. The best of these are to be found on Nascar/Pro-stock engines where considerable time is spent on their design. Most of these engines use 'wedge' chambers forming a figure 8. Some of these though are inclined at quite a shallow angle which then could be copied onto our head. One such design is shown below - a Yates Ford head.
To do this we need to add weld metal to the area above the spark plug and a little opposite. I've marked in pink where the main welding needs to be done above the plug on a stock head.
I have a few heads laying around for development so the above head was used to experiment with. I used MIG (4043 wire, 100% Argon) for the welding process so I could lay down a large amount of weld quickly so the head didn't get too hot. MIG welding aluminium can lead to porous welds though as can be seen from the pics. This is not a problem for just playing with chamber shapes. The final shape would be welded using TIG.
Below is two chambers done with the standard one on the far right.
It needs a little more work particularly opposite the plug - the wall could be brought closer to the valve on the intake side to incourage swirl more.
Once I'm happy with the chamber shapes I'll reproduce them on another head with TIG welding and post more pics. Then it's on to the valves/valve seats and ports!
This is a summary of cylinder head development work I've been doing and posting on another forum.
I thought these pics of development work I've been doing may be of use to those who have turbocharged 2L 8v engines.
One of the key ways to get high power out these engines is with a good flowing cylinder head. The standard head is not too bad for it's class with reasonable valve sizes as standard and a good downdraft intake port. It's negative points are the dog leg exhaust port and it's emissions friendly open 'D' shaped chamber. The basic chamber is based on the 'bathtub' design which in terms of efficiency is worse than a 'wedge' chamber, which is worse than a 'hemi' head!
Starting with the chamber shape, we can't change the basic 'bathtub' arrangement. So we are limited on how much bigger the valves can go (not much - more on that later). However we can improve the chamber shape by making it a closed chamber. This gives us more squish which improves flame speed and knock resistance. In the US the factory GM turbo version of this engine used a different head casting that had a closed chamber as seen below.
Obviously this is going to be hard to get hold of in the UK. However we can modify the standard chamber and perhaps improve on the closed chamber design that GM used. To do this I looked at modern 2v per cylinder chamber designs. The best of these are to be found on Nascar/Pro-stock engines where considerable time is spent on their design. Most of these engines use 'wedge' chambers forming a figure 8. Some of these though are inclined at quite a shallow angle which then could be copied onto our head. One such design is shown below - a Yates Ford head.
To do this we need to add weld metal to the area above the spark plug and a little opposite. I've marked in pink where the main welding needs to be done above the plug on a stock head.
I have a few heads laying around for development so the above head was used to experiment with. I used MIG (4043 wire, 100% Argon) for the welding process so I could lay down a large amount of weld quickly so the head didn't get too hot. MIG welding aluminium can lead to porous welds though as can be seen from the pics. This is not a problem for just playing with chamber shapes. The final shape would be welded using TIG.
Below is two chambers done with the standard one on the far right.
It needs a little more work particularly opposite the plug - the wall could be brought closer to the valve on the intake side to incourage swirl more.
Once I'm happy with the chamber shapes I'll reproduce them on another head with TIG welding and post more pics. Then it's on to the valves/valve seats and ports!
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
I managed to find time recently to do a bit more work on the heads. I've got a welding procedure ready for TIG welding which I'll get done on a head later this week. I also found that when using MIG to weld you can reduce porosity to almost zero by using a 60% Argon/40% Helium mix sheilding gas.
The chambers I have finalised in terms of shape, what I want to try in the next few days is moving the spark plug position. I feel it can be moved 3mm closer to the centre of the cylinder and twisted more towards the exhaust valve. We'll see, there's not much room there!
I've also been working on the exhaust port trying to remove the resrictions there without increasing the port area too much. I've been doing a lot of research into the design of turbo engines and one of the things that I discovered was that a bad exhaust port design can rob up to 20% of the exhaust gas energy available to the turbo. I feel that by getting the exhaust port to flow as much as possible without dropping velocity enough energy would be available at the turbine inlet to maybe go up an A/R size. The reduction in back pressure from a larger turbine housing/wheel would increase VE across the rpm range resulting in more power. A better flowing exhaust port would also decrease pumping losses during the exhaust stroke. Below is a picture of the standard exhaust port;
Here's the modified version with a slightly revised bowl area and a more streamlined valve guide boss. You have to be careful here, there's a water passage between both seats so not much material can be removed from there.
Here's a cross-section through the exhaust port;
Ideally I'd like to raise the port to get a larger short turn radius but there's a water jacket above the port as you can see. Port wall thickness seems to be around 5mm. I don't think there's much I can do here without the aid of a flowbench to take some velocity/pressure measurements so I can shape the port properly.
There's obviously some gains to be made with the seat angles and the profile of the back of the valve. I'll look at these areas later this week. I also feel that for a turbo engine there would be benefits in lengthening the exhaust valve guide. It's quite short as stock and with the higher exhaust temps associated with a turbo engine a longer guide would allow more heat to be removed from the valve helping it's durability. There would be a small penalty in flow but this could be minimised with a good taper profile on the guide.
That's all for now
The chambers I have finalised in terms of shape, what I want to try in the next few days is moving the spark plug position. I feel it can be moved 3mm closer to the centre of the cylinder and twisted more towards the exhaust valve. We'll see, there's not much room there!
I've also been working on the exhaust port trying to remove the resrictions there without increasing the port area too much. I've been doing a lot of research into the design of turbo engines and one of the things that I discovered was that a bad exhaust port design can rob up to 20% of the exhaust gas energy available to the turbo. I feel that by getting the exhaust port to flow as much as possible without dropping velocity enough energy would be available at the turbine inlet to maybe go up an A/R size. The reduction in back pressure from a larger turbine housing/wheel would increase VE across the rpm range resulting in more power. A better flowing exhaust port would also decrease pumping losses during the exhaust stroke. Below is a picture of the standard exhaust port;
Here's the modified version with a slightly revised bowl area and a more streamlined valve guide boss. You have to be careful here, there's a water passage between both seats so not much material can be removed from there.
Here's a cross-section through the exhaust port;
Ideally I'd like to raise the port to get a larger short turn radius but there's a water jacket above the port as you can see. Port wall thickness seems to be around 5mm. I don't think there's much I can do here without the aid of a flowbench to take some velocity/pressure measurements so I can shape the port properly.
There's obviously some gains to be made with the seat angles and the profile of the back of the valve. I'll look at these areas later this week. I also feel that for a turbo engine there would be benefits in lengthening the exhaust valve guide. It's quite short as stock and with the higher exhaust temps associated with a turbo engine a longer guide would allow more heat to be removed from the valve helping it's durability. There would be a small penalty in flow but this could be minimised with a good taper profile on the guide.
That's all for now
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
Small update...
Spark plug location.
Can be moved slightly towards towards the centre, but to twist it towards the exhaust means cutting into the head bolt boss significantly to get access with a socket. I don't know the structural effects of this on the head (it'll need to be done to four of the head bolt bosses) as yet so I won't pursue this further for now with standard plugs. I have yet however to try this using a motocycle type plug. It's smaller size may reduce the need to grind the head bolt boss so much. The next step I think is to get a motocycle plug and try it.
IIRC I think this was also tried out on the Pinto engine... Can anyone remember?
As a side note, you can twist the standard plug round to the exhaust if you move the plug further from the centre of the chamber. As it is the plug is only ~15mm away from the centre which actually is pretty good for a 2 valve head (except a hemi of course).
Exhaust Port.
This can definately be raised 4-5mm by adding metal to the bottom of the port and also to the top of the outside of the port to keep the same size mounting flange area. I'll post pics of this once I get time to hog it to shape with the burr.
Spark plug location.
Can be moved slightly towards towards the centre, but to twist it towards the exhaust means cutting into the head bolt boss significantly to get access with a socket. I don't know the structural effects of this on the head (it'll need to be done to four of the head bolt bosses) as yet so I won't pursue this further for now with standard plugs. I have yet however to try this using a motocycle type plug. It's smaller size may reduce the need to grind the head bolt boss so much. The next step I think is to get a motocycle plug and try it.
IIRC I think this was also tried out on the Pinto engine... Can anyone remember?
As a side note, you can twist the standard plug round to the exhaust if you move the plug further from the centre of the chamber. As it is the plug is only ~15mm away from the centre which actually is pretty good for a 2 valve head (except a hemi of course).
Exhaust Port.
This can definately be raised 4-5mm by adding metal to the bottom of the port and also to the top of the outside of the port to keep the same size mounting flange area. I'll post pics of this once I get time to hog it to shape with the burr.
Last edited by Stefan on Wed Sep 20, 2006 8:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
More updates;
Spark plug location.
Tried to fiddle around with the position using a smaller plug. Unfortunately there's just not enough meat in the casting to rotate the plug and keep it near the centre.
However, in disscussions with some V8 builders it seems an increase in knock resistance can be acheived by properly indexing the plugs towards the exhaust valve as shown below. To do this, washers need to be used to properly position the plugs when fully tightened.
Exhaust port.
Not much to report here, haven't done any porting of the welded port. Got this Thursday off so I should have pics then
Intake manifold.
The original intake I restored to the condition below...
The stock 43mm throttle body size being good for ~250hp. But, I wanted more
Flow testing of the manifold carried out in the USA shows that although the intake is generally a good design, with straight runners, decent plenum volume, etc. the position of the TB means that a lot of the flow goes straight down No.4 runner! I thought it was best to modify the position of the TB whilst increasing it's size. I also wanted to route the intercooler pipework around the engine, not over it. So I've modified it to take an Ecotec 57mm TB. Don't worry about the bright red paint, it'll get a fresh coat
The Ecotec throttle cable bracket is a horrid affair that will get binned as soon as I've made a nicer bracket.
That's all... Possibly more on Thursday...
Spark plug location.
Tried to fiddle around with the position using a smaller plug. Unfortunately there's just not enough meat in the casting to rotate the plug and keep it near the centre.
However, in disscussions with some V8 builders it seems an increase in knock resistance can be acheived by properly indexing the plugs towards the exhaust valve as shown below. To do this, washers need to be used to properly position the plugs when fully tightened.
Exhaust port.
Not much to report here, haven't done any porting of the welded port. Got this Thursday off so I should have pics then
Intake manifold.
The original intake I restored to the condition below...
The stock 43mm throttle body size being good for ~250hp. But, I wanted more
Flow testing of the manifold carried out in the USA shows that although the intake is generally a good design, with straight runners, decent plenum volume, etc. the position of the TB means that a lot of the flow goes straight down No.4 runner! I thought it was best to modify the position of the TB whilst increasing it's size. I also wanted to route the intercooler pipework around the engine, not over it. So I've modified it to take an Ecotec 57mm TB. Don't worry about the bright red paint, it'll get a fresh coat
The Ecotec throttle cable bracket is a horrid affair that will get binned as soon as I've made a nicer bracket.
That's all... Possibly more on Thursday...
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
Righto, pics of the exhaust port now
I've welded the floor so the port could be raised 1/8" or more to form a D-shaped port. I've done some work around the valve guide area. So here you go...
D-shape port on left, square stock height port in middle (not finished yet) and stock port on right.
More next week
I've welded the floor so the port could be raised 1/8" or more to form a D-shaped port. I've done some work around the valve guide area. So here you go...
D-shape port on left, square stock height port in middle (not finished yet) and stock port on right.
More next week
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
Another update...
I've started work on a new head which will be used on this engine build. The head was welded then lightly skimmed to provide a flat surface for marking out. The chambers are all currently roughed out. It's to go back for welding again to have the exhaust ports done. Then they'll be roughed out to form the raise d-ports. I've found where I can get bronze valve guides for it and new valves. The inlets will be replaced by those from the US turbo head seen in the first post. These have a 43mm head diameter vs 41.8mm stock. Exhaust valve will remain standard size as they are large to start off with. Once the valve seats have been recut and the new guides fitted the chambers and ports will be finished off.
There's four hours of grinding work there...
More to follow once exhaust ports are welded
I've started work on a new head which will be used on this engine build. The head was welded then lightly skimmed to provide a flat surface for marking out. The chambers are all currently roughed out. It's to go back for welding again to have the exhaust ports done. Then they'll be roughed out to form the raise d-ports. I've found where I can get bronze valve guides for it and new valves. The inlets will be replaced by those from the US turbo head seen in the first post. These have a 43mm head diameter vs 41.8mm stock. Exhaust valve will remain standard size as they are large to start off with. Once the valve seats have been recut and the new guides fitted the chambers and ports will be finished off.
There's four hours of grinding work there...
More to follow once exhaust ports are welded
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
- Brian5475E
- Expert
- Posts: 753
- Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 2:49 am
- Location: Cincinnati, Ohio USA
- Contact:
very very nice work man... got few questions though:
Spark plugs:
how does indexing the spark plug towards the exhaust valve increase knocking resistance? i don't know how does this concept works?
what kind of washers to use in this case? i mean to avoid gas leakage and all?
does this mena every time you reolace the spark plugs you need to play with your washers to get the spark plugs correctly positioned?
Ekhaust ports:
what are the benefits of D shaped ports over O shaped ports?
whay do you want to rais the ports? or is it just to serve the above mentioned mod?
Intake:
if cyl. #4 is getting alot of flow because the OEM TB position then you still got the new TB near the #4 cyl., wouldn't that cause the same problem? or is it related to flow direction into the intake mani. rather than proximity to a particular cyl.??
combustion chamber shape:
i still see lots of areas that can be filled to achive the figure 8 shape chamber , why didn't you fill it? is it a welding limitation? what are the factors affecting how much you can fill on a given head?
sorry the questions might seem noob but my turbo knowledge is not that deep to start with and accordingly my head modding knowledge is right next to ZERO.
MMamdouh
Spark plugs:
how does indexing the spark plug towards the exhaust valve increase knocking resistance? i don't know how does this concept works?
what kind of washers to use in this case? i mean to avoid gas leakage and all?
does this mena every time you reolace the spark plugs you need to play with your washers to get the spark plugs correctly positioned?
Ekhaust ports:
what are the benefits of D shaped ports over O shaped ports?
whay do you want to rais the ports? or is it just to serve the above mentioned mod?
Intake:
if cyl. #4 is getting alot of flow because the OEM TB position then you still got the new TB near the #4 cyl., wouldn't that cause the same problem? or is it related to flow direction into the intake mani. rather than proximity to a particular cyl.??
combustion chamber shape:
i still see lots of areas that can be filled to achive the figure 8 shape chamber , why didn't you fill it? is it a welding limitation? what are the factors affecting how much you can fill on a given head?
sorry the questions might seem noob but my turbo knowledge is not that deep to start with and accordingly my head modding knowledge is right next to ZERO.
MMamdouh
Driving is the utmost fun you can have with your pants on!
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Check out my ride: http://www.cardomain.com/ride/567267
Spark plugs:
how does indexing the spark plug towards the exhaust valve increase knocking resistance? i don't know how does this concept works?
what kind of washers to use in this case? i mean to avoid gas leakage and all?
does this mena every time you reolace the spark plugs you need to play with your washers to get the spark plugs correctly positioned?
Indexing plugs is an old racers trick. The 'gap' part of the plug is angled towards the exhaust side of the chamber because thats the hottest part of the chamber. The air/fuel trapped there during compression will absorb the heat from the exhaust valve. We want to burn the hottest air/fuel mix first because if we don't the pressure rise during combustion will add more heat to it until it auto-ignites before the flame front gets to it. We then get a big spike of pressure in the chamber otherwise known as knock. The washers can be hard copper or brass and are in various thicknesses. Indexing washers are available from Moroso, Summit Racing, etc. You may need to play with washers if you change plugs, but usually, no.
Ekhaust ports:
what are the benefits of D shaped ports over O shaped ports?
whay do you want to rais the ports? or is it just to serve the above mentioned mod?
The standard exhaust ports have a small short turn radius. Air/exhaust gasses won't flow very well around sharp corners. This creates a turbulent (series of eddies) area behind the turn and combined with the fact that most of the exhaust gas flows at the top of the port means that even though the port is quite big it flows like a small port. By raising the port floor and creating a more 'down-draft' port we can create a larger radius on the short turn which will encourage air to flow around it. The floor is flattened and widened to slow down and increase airflow around the short turn. What you get is a port, that although it appears to have the same area as the stock one, flows much more. These type of exhaust ports are seen on many aftermarket V8 cylinder heads.
Intake:
if cyl. #4 is getting alot of flow because the OEM TB position then you still got the new TB near the #4 cyl., wouldn't that cause the same problem? or is it related to flow direction into the intake mani. rather than proximity to a particular cyl.??
It's related to the direction of airflow. The stock TB position means that airflow has to make a sharp 90 degree turn before it can get to the other cylinders, it'll rather take the path of least resistance and go down no. 4 cylinder instead of making that turn. By placing the TB on the side the airflow has a straight shot at all of the cylinders. In fact at high boost levels it may favour no. 1 cylinder instead. A deflector inside the plenum would cure that though (or a new plenum shape).
combustion chamber shape:
i still see lots of areas that can be filled to achive the figure 8 shape chamber , why didn't you fill it? is it a welding limitation? what are the factors affecting how much you can fill on a given head?
I wanted to add only enough weld for reshaping. The more weld you add, and the heat it generates, the softer the rest of the base metal becomes. For really radical reshaping you'd have to stress-relieve the head after welding, then solution heat treat it followed by an age hardening process to bring it back up to the original temper and hardness (normally T6 condition). The welding needs to be done with a filler wire that can be hardened or the same material as the head. For aluminium heads this is normally A356 aluminium filler wire. After the heat treating etc. the head will of warped so it will need all faces/cam/lifter bores etc. remachined.
So, only add the minimum weld required for the job.
how does indexing the spark plug towards the exhaust valve increase knocking resistance? i don't know how does this concept works?
what kind of washers to use in this case? i mean to avoid gas leakage and all?
does this mena every time you reolace the spark plugs you need to play with your washers to get the spark plugs correctly positioned?
Indexing plugs is an old racers trick. The 'gap' part of the plug is angled towards the exhaust side of the chamber because thats the hottest part of the chamber. The air/fuel trapped there during compression will absorb the heat from the exhaust valve. We want to burn the hottest air/fuel mix first because if we don't the pressure rise during combustion will add more heat to it until it auto-ignites before the flame front gets to it. We then get a big spike of pressure in the chamber otherwise known as knock. The washers can be hard copper or brass and are in various thicknesses. Indexing washers are available from Moroso, Summit Racing, etc. You may need to play with washers if you change plugs, but usually, no.
Ekhaust ports:
what are the benefits of D shaped ports over O shaped ports?
whay do you want to rais the ports? or is it just to serve the above mentioned mod?
The standard exhaust ports have a small short turn radius. Air/exhaust gasses won't flow very well around sharp corners. This creates a turbulent (series of eddies) area behind the turn and combined with the fact that most of the exhaust gas flows at the top of the port means that even though the port is quite big it flows like a small port. By raising the port floor and creating a more 'down-draft' port we can create a larger radius on the short turn which will encourage air to flow around it. The floor is flattened and widened to slow down and increase airflow around the short turn. What you get is a port, that although it appears to have the same area as the stock one, flows much more. These type of exhaust ports are seen on many aftermarket V8 cylinder heads.
Intake:
if cyl. #4 is getting alot of flow because the OEM TB position then you still got the new TB near the #4 cyl., wouldn't that cause the same problem? or is it related to flow direction into the intake mani. rather than proximity to a particular cyl.??
It's related to the direction of airflow. The stock TB position means that airflow has to make a sharp 90 degree turn before it can get to the other cylinders, it'll rather take the path of least resistance and go down no. 4 cylinder instead of making that turn. By placing the TB on the side the airflow has a straight shot at all of the cylinders. In fact at high boost levels it may favour no. 1 cylinder instead. A deflector inside the plenum would cure that though (or a new plenum shape).
combustion chamber shape:
i still see lots of areas that can be filled to achive the figure 8 shape chamber , why didn't you fill it? is it a welding limitation? what are the factors affecting how much you can fill on a given head?
I wanted to add only enough weld for reshaping. The more weld you add, and the heat it generates, the softer the rest of the base metal becomes. For really radical reshaping you'd have to stress-relieve the head after welding, then solution heat treat it followed by an age hardening process to bring it back up to the original temper and hardness (normally T6 condition). The welding needs to be done with a filler wire that can be hardened or the same material as the head. For aluminium heads this is normally A356 aluminium filler wire. After the heat treating etc. the head will of warped so it will need all faces/cam/lifter bores etc. remachined.
So, only add the minimum weld required for the job.
Vauxhall Astra.
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
T3 60trim, Intercooler, Mopar Super 60 Injectors, SDS Stand Alone EFI, Cast T3 Manifold With External Wastegate + More...
- PrecisionBoost
- Super Moderator
- Posts: 4437
- Joined: Thu Jun 19, 2003 5:59 am
- Location: Edmonton, Alberta, Canada
Nice work Stefan, thanks for sharing that bit of technical information with us..... it seems Daewootech has turned into a "help me my blinker fluid is low" kind of site as opposed to a technical site with people's hard work on making the best of their GM / Daewoo vehicles.
I must say.... you have too much time on your hands
I can't begin to imagine how much time you've spent on this head work..... keep it up.
I must say.... you have too much time on your hands
I can't begin to imagine how much time you've spent on this head work..... keep it up.
2010 BMW 335D
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos
1994 Opel Calibra 4X4 turbo ( C20LET 2.0L Turbo )
2002 Daewoo lanos