307whp 'Woo! (well, kind of...)
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
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Here I go again...
Engine spec sheet:
1988 GET block bored .020" over, 0-decked true to the mains, and align-honed with ARP main studs; stock, un-cut cast steel GET crank, 9# lighter than the NE/SED crank; .020-over forged GM GET pistons (8.5:1) with single intake valve "eyebrow" added for use with the Daewoo 4-valve head; factory GET rods that have had the beams polished, shot-peened and re-sized with ARP rod bolts; custom 80psi oil pump; stock oil pan and pick-up tube; GM MLS head gasket from a Z20LET (Euro-"Ecotec" turbo) with TWO Victor "head-saver" head shims, one on either side of the h.g., used to lower compression to 8.0:1; stock, unported T20SED cyl head (right off a wrecked nube with 62K miles on it); 'Woo timing belt drive; custom machined 'Woo cam gears with cam sensor lugs and counterweights removed for lightening and looks; custom remote mounted GET distributor driven off the front of the intake cam; T20SED intake manifold; 42.5# Delphi injectors; 1991 Quad4 HO 56mm throttle body, remote mounted so I could use factory Quad4 Grand Am throttle cable arrangement (and has the side benefit of an adding 60cid plenum volume, nearly double the stock plenum size!); custom 4-tube turbo header made from an Acura XS Power header and a custom T20SED exh flange; T3/T04E Super 60 (not 60-1, that's a bigger turbo), comp side .60 a/r "Super 60"-trim with std 3" inlet and 2" discharge, turbine side .84 a/r (yes, that's right .84 A/R) T3 turbine housing, custom machined GT35 turbine wheel (made by my secret turbo guy! ); TiAL 38mm external wastegate; 2-1/2" downpipe which merges with the 1-5/8" w.g. dump tube 6" form the turbo into a 3" exh with no cat and a Dodge Hemi Ram truck 3" resonator as a muffler.
Tuning: MSD 6AL with built-in Soft Touch rev control and two-step rev limiter used to launch the car; NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028"; MSD 8.5mm Supercondutor wires; Aeromotive adj. f.p.r. set to factory specs (stock fpr on fuel rail has been gutted); stock 8deg initial timing; custom ecm tuning on factory LT3 '7749 ecm using GMPCM and Tunercat software; 2-bar MAP sensor (for now, more boost will require 3-bar conversion).
Transmission: Muncie/Getrag 282 5-speed with stock 3.61 final drive (ratios 3.50:, 2.19:, 1.38:, .94:, .75:1) my Engineered Performance Limited-Slip Differential; SPEC Stage 3+ cerametallic clutch (which is NOT holding the power as they said it would, even after a long break-in); shortened shifter handle; stock GM HD C.V. axles.
Car: 1988 Grand Am SE turbo, 4-door sedan; 1994 Grand Am GT 16x6.5" 5-spoke "turbo" wheels with 205/55/16 Firestone GTA tires (8yr old tires!); 1991 Grand Am SE front- and rear-end conversion; 1990 honda accord rear spoiler.
Here a picture taken just as I started my bunrout this past weekend. It ran a best 13.52 @ 103 three weeks ago in Ohio. This Sunday is only ran a 14.16 due to street tires instead of slicks, slipping third and fourth gear and low 6500 rev-limit that I forgot to change after dyno tuning it last week.
Engine spec sheet:
1988 GET block bored .020" over, 0-decked true to the mains, and align-honed with ARP main studs; stock, un-cut cast steel GET crank, 9# lighter than the NE/SED crank; .020-over forged GM GET pistons (8.5:1) with single intake valve "eyebrow" added for use with the Daewoo 4-valve head; factory GET rods that have had the beams polished, shot-peened and re-sized with ARP rod bolts; custom 80psi oil pump; stock oil pan and pick-up tube; GM MLS head gasket from a Z20LET (Euro-"Ecotec" turbo) with TWO Victor "head-saver" head shims, one on either side of the h.g., used to lower compression to 8.0:1; stock, unported T20SED cyl head (right off a wrecked nube with 62K miles on it); 'Woo timing belt drive; custom machined 'Woo cam gears with cam sensor lugs and counterweights removed for lightening and looks; custom remote mounted GET distributor driven off the front of the intake cam; T20SED intake manifold; 42.5# Delphi injectors; 1991 Quad4 HO 56mm throttle body, remote mounted so I could use factory Quad4 Grand Am throttle cable arrangement (and has the side benefit of an adding 60cid plenum volume, nearly double the stock plenum size!); custom 4-tube turbo header made from an Acura XS Power header and a custom T20SED exh flange; T3/T04E Super 60 (not 60-1, that's a bigger turbo), comp side .60 a/r "Super 60"-trim with std 3" inlet and 2" discharge, turbine side .84 a/r (yes, that's right .84 A/R) T3 turbine housing, custom machined GT35 turbine wheel (made by my secret turbo guy! ); TiAL 38mm external wastegate; 2-1/2" downpipe which merges with the 1-5/8" w.g. dump tube 6" form the turbo into a 3" exh with no cat and a Dodge Hemi Ram truck 3" resonator as a muffler.
Tuning: MSD 6AL with built-in Soft Touch rev control and two-step rev limiter used to launch the car; NGK BKR7E plugs gapped at .028"; MSD 8.5mm Supercondutor wires; Aeromotive adj. f.p.r. set to factory specs (stock fpr on fuel rail has been gutted); stock 8deg initial timing; custom ecm tuning on factory LT3 '7749 ecm using GMPCM and Tunercat software; 2-bar MAP sensor (for now, more boost will require 3-bar conversion).
Transmission: Muncie/Getrag 282 5-speed with stock 3.61 final drive (ratios 3.50:, 2.19:, 1.38:, .94:, .75:1) my Engineered Performance Limited-Slip Differential; SPEC Stage 3+ cerametallic clutch (which is NOT holding the power as they said it would, even after a long break-in); shortened shifter handle; stock GM HD C.V. axles.
Car: 1988 Grand Am SE turbo, 4-door sedan; 1994 Grand Am GT 16x6.5" 5-spoke "turbo" wheels with 205/55/16 Firestone GTA tires (8yr old tires!); 1991 Grand Am SE front- and rear-end conversion; 1990 honda accord rear spoiler.
Here a picture taken just as I started my bunrout this past weekend. It ran a best 13.52 @ 103 three weeks ago in Ohio. This Sunday is only ran a 14.16 due to street tires instead of slicks, slipping third and fourth gear and low 6500 rev-limit that I forgot to change after dyno tuning it last week.
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
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pontiacjeff wrote:forged GM GET pistons (8.5:1) with single intake valve "eyebrow" added for use with the Daewoo 4-valve head;.........GM MLS head gasket from a Z20LET (Euro-"Ecotec" turbo) with TWO Victor "head-saver" head shims, one on either side of the h.g., used to lower compression to 8.0:1;
Do you think it's still nesseccary to add the eyebrow even tho you put in head shims?
Can someone like me with the older LT3 use the stock pistons without having valve clearance issues?
I've been hearing mixed reviews about SPEC clutches,.. I hear the bulley stage 2 is betterSPEC Stage 3+ cerametallic clutch (which is NOT holding the power as they said it would, even after a long break-in); shortened shifter handle
Crap! If I ever get down to your end of the continent,.. I'm humping your car!It ran a best 13.52 @ 103 three weeks ago in Ohio.
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
- Contact:
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
- Contact:
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
- Contact:
I wasn't going to take a chance. This way it won't be an issue.barmanjay wrote:
Do you think it's still nesseccary to add the eyebrow even tho you put in head shims?
Can someone like me with the older LT3 use the stock pistons without having valve clearance issues?
Weeeeeell, I didn't really break it in, so I will give them the benefit of the doubt. It's o.k. for driving around, but I will need to pull it out. It's starting to make noises and grab pretty bad. Ironically, they sent me a 9" clutch for something, probably a Quad4, which fit the flywheel perfect. I would only need to set up the flywheel on the mill and re-drill the bigger bolt pattern. When I called them, the guy talked me out of doing that and sent me the correct 8.5". I really didn't think it was going to hold, despite their claim of 465lbs.ft. I also didn't check the clutch line to see if it needs to be drilled. I need to do that, too.barmanjay wrote:I've been hearing mixed reviews about SPEC clutches,.. I hear the bulley stage 2 is better
Crap! If I ever get down to your end of the continent,.. I'm humping your car![/quote]It ran a best 13.52 @ 103 three weeks ago in Ohio.
No humping... the front bumper is held on with 6 screws and wire ties.
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
- Contact:
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- Posts: 78
- Joined: Mon Feb 09, 2004 2:28 pm
- Location: Atlanta, GA. USA
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Ya, I know. I thought about transplanting the whole drivetrain into a 94-95 GrandAm (my favorite body), but decided it was easier to update the 88 to a 91 body, which is alot more modern looking.Efrain A. wrote:thats beefy!
get that engine into a pontiac '89 lemans or a lanos!!
The Pontiac sales brochure for 89 lists the GA curb weight from 2490-2750#. With the turbo and pipes and extra wieght of the head, I guess 3000# is close. I think I weighed it once and remembered 3100# with me, but I could be wrong.
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- Posts: 48
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- Location: Laurel, MD
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Is there any information that you could give me on the alternator and alternator brackets? Is this something that bolted to the C20get block or does it utilize the head bolts? Are there any cars in america I could find this on?
I'm trying to get my alternator out of the way to run charge pipes around there.
Awesome job so far.
I'm trying to get my alternator out of the way to run charge pipes around there.
Awesome job so far.