turbo 1.5 lanos probs

Forced induction, NA tunning, exhaust, just performance

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MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

what do you mean by them markings 1-4?? are those the cyl. numbers that are supposed to fire or the coil pack ports??

in order to make this easyer lets use this diagram as a guide
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now which ports on the coil pack that does not fire?? are those C and D?? if so then check the wiring to the coil pack, their is a little socket on the back of it with some 3 or 4 wires... check if they are all in a good condition.

this socket delevires the signal from the ECU to the coil pack to order it to fire, if you miss that signal the coil pack won't fire and from what you discribed you are missing the signal to the lower part of the coil pack.

also this could be a faulty coil pack, if you got a spare or can borrow one from a friend, swap it with your pack and test the car to make sure wether it is a coil pack or signal problem before you spend money on parts you don't want.
i have no oil watsoever in the car , have no clue Y ?, it had oil yesterday b4 i took the car out ? wats weird is no oil psi drop showed up in the stock cluster or in the aftermarket gauge
this is by far the most strange thing i ever heared, complete oil loss is associated with loss of pressure, period.

you were leaking oil from the turbo but will that use up all your oil? i don't think so especially that you say you checked the oil a day before.

i suppose you would have noticed an oil leak under the car (assuming you have one) especially when it leaks 3.50 liters on the street, with all feedback you say i am really confused.

try to drain all the oil in the engine in a contaner and see for real how much oil is their, if you got no dip stick reading and no oil pressure loss whatsoever then your dip stick is just stupid. maybe you did lose lots of oil some how but not much to cause oil pressure drop... again i am confused with that so you won't be sure till you drain the oil and see how much oil you got in their for real.

sorry for your problems bro. :(

MMamdouh
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tango
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Post by tango »

You say you are arcing between 1 and 4 on the distributor. I had a friend with a Leggie that had the same problem and the car mis-fired like nobody's business. Cure: he changed the plug wires. This may or may not be the problem with you, but it's a place to start. Switch back to the old plug wires and see what happens. There is a posibility that the coil pack is damaged but let's not look there yet.

As for the oil loss that's a mystery. But if you are definitely not seeing any oil on the ground or any significant leaks around the engine then I have only one assumption. Oil may be getting into your coolant system. Have a look in the reservoir and see if there's any gunk in there.
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woo_sleeper
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Post by woo_sleeper »

tango wrote:You say you are arcing between 1 and 4 on the distributor. I had a friend with a Leggie that had the same problem and the car mis-fired like nobody's business. Cure: he changed the plug wires. This may or may not be the problem with you, but it's a place to start. Switch back to the old plug wires and see what happens. There is a posibility that the coil pack is damaged but let's not look there yet.

As for the oil loss that's a mystery. But if you are definitely not seeing any oil on the ground or any significant leaks around the engine then I have only one assumption. Oil may be getting into your coolant system. Have a look in the reservoir and see if there's any gunk in there.
Ok now i have changed all 4 plug wires 2 the stock ones and i get arc's on cylinders 1-2-3, changed the plugs w the +4 bosch platinums and still nuthin the car doesnt even start up nw , also changed wat oil that was left in the car w a filter
MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

now from what i got from Woo_Sleeper is that he got spark leaking from the wires into the engine head... this shows that his coil pack is working fine and either he got bad wires or too much resistance at the spark plugs.

having changed the wires and spark plugs yet you till got the same problem means some thing is really off but i don't know what... maybe we both can arrange a meeting on Monday or so and i can see this for my self... also we can try my wires and spark plugs too in the attempt to find what went wrong with your Woo.

MMamdouh
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woo_sleeper
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Post by woo_sleeper »

hey guys , new news i yesterday took my intake mani apart to try and figure out wats wrong also took off the coil and sparks and wires to test them all , so this is wat i found :

1) coil was casuing the prob nt the plugs or the wires
2) when i took out the intake mani off i found oil resedue and alot of black shit , now the prob is that i cleaned the damn thing 2 weeks ago, so i cleaned the damn thing out good like new and checked the TPS, and Idle sensors and cleaned them up and put it all back 2gether, car started fine no probs at all but still abit sluggish while idleing didnt take it out to run yet dunno wats causing the car to be soo sluging in the RPM climb while ideling , also i cant find any check valves yet and i think its a must to make a catch can for it ... now i wanna know something does the can have to have anything inside of it of wat ?? , i was thinkin of fittin a small filter in it or something
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Post by woo_sleeper »

ok guys this is gettin too fucked up , i changed my coil, plugs, wires, basically everythin and now the car starts up but when i press on the accel pedell the car goes smoothly to 2500 rpm then gets realy slugish and starts to die out , now i dnt get any cel at all so i dnt know wats the prob can the fuel pump be the cause i dnt get any cel, the only time i did was when i was the cel would come on and the rmp wouldnt work and it would stay on for like 20-30 sec then the rpm would work again

guys help me out plz zzz
tango
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Post by tango »

Like I said before...MAP sensor seems to be a problem here. Disconnect your blow-off valve (so that the boost leaks to atmoshpere) then disconnect the MAP sensor. Drive the car and see how it feels. Then disconnect the MAP sensor. If the car drives better with the MAP sensor disconnected then you have a bad MAP sensor. This sounds EXACTLY like the problems I was having.
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woo_sleeper
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Post by woo_sleeper »

tango wrote:Like I said before...MAP sensor seems to be a problem here. Disconnect your blow-off valve (so that the boost leaks to atmoshpere) then disconnect the MAP sensor. Drive the car and see how it feels. Then disconnect the MAP sensor. If the car drives better with the MAP sensor disconnected then you have a bad MAP sensor. This sounds EXACTLY like the problems I was having.

when i disconect the map the car dies and i tried testin the car w out boost same result at the end ??? whether its hooked up or nt the car doesnt run
tango
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Post by tango »

I've heard of turbos damaging MAP sensors and then going on to damage the ECU...but I don't know if we are at that stage or not. I hope not though...I'm still giving thought.
Cogito ergo sum...
woo_sleeper
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Post by woo_sleeper »

tango wrote:I've heard of turbos damaging MAP sensors and then going on to damage the ECU...but I don't know if we are at that stage or not. I hope not though...I'm still giving thought.
im gonna try and test a new map sensor and see if it works i hope it does cz i cant figure out wats goin on
richardmatalon
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Post by richardmatalon »

ok, let me try something here, turbo may damage map sensors, but only under extreeme boosot conditions, to be honest, in my personaly opinion, Tango, bro, i don't think that turboing the car will damage the map sensor and then go on to damage teh ecu. just ain't going to happen, what i know is the problem, which is the same problem that i was having with my corolla when i turboed it in jamaica, is that the map is a 1 bar , not able to read boost pressure, maybe 1 or 1.5 psi at most, so when it reads boost, it doesn't know what to do, so it will throw a red flag to the ecu, the ecu will then react by cutting either fueling or ignition, or retarding the ignition, or all of the above, ( well not retarding the ign), just put some check valves in the line of the map sensor, it isn't that hard, u can by them at any autoparts store, I am sure even over there, all you have to do is just allow for them to blow boost but not suck air, that is it, ist is really easy, once you fix that problem, the let us know what else is tehre, if the map was damaged, it would throw a cel, for sure, becuase it wouldn't respond in the pre start check conduted by the ecu everytime the ignition is switched on. Just try the one way valves, or buy an apexi s a fc, if you run that then you will not get any probs with the map. YOur not going to damage the map sensor with boost, bnot like that any ways.. Just my two cents.
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woo_sleeper
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Post by woo_sleeper »

hey guys i tried swaping maps from another friends car and same result at the end, i knw some korean guy that runs his own shop here in cai for Woo's, kia's,hyun, etc hes tellin me that the turbo mani is 1 of the causes. he told me that it might be restricting the exhaust flow from the engine, cz of its desight and the pipes width. he scaned the cr for codes didnt find any so he told me the map is good and everythin else, so i dnt knw if wat hes sayin is true, but i might have to just make a whole new mani at the end and test it and see if theres a difference ..... , as for check valves ive been lookin around here for then and showin pics from my laptop and no result its a fuckin bitch !!! i cant find them but still lookin... :?
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Air check valves

Post by john_trickle »

Hey is this the check vavles that are used to block the map sensor when running boost.tim said he used 3 where abouts do they go exactly have any pics please





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norbie
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Post by norbie »

Woah old post!
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MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

BTW that car is boosted once again after sorting lots of issues in it... it is running 4psi due to some leaks in the intake and exhaust sides but it is beeing tuned.

just thought of givng you a heads up on this.

MMamdouh
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