u20sed na build help/info needed

[7-even]

hey guys. i have the reno u20sed motor. i decided to get either the qed cams or the piper cams cams. heres the specs for the piper cams http://www.pipercams.co.uk/pipercams/ww ... &engine=25 i was thinking about the fast road cams. it seems like you can just bolt them in and go with no other modification. for the ultimate road cams they say you might have to machine the pistons/head. now what would need to be done to the head? where would i get pistons machined and to what specs?
the qed cams bolt in with no modification http://qedmotorsport.co.uk/the-engines/ ... /camshafts. not sure what the specs are.
now when i put the cams in should i upgrade anything else while im in there? or should i just leave everything considering both the qed and piper fast road cams need no other upgrades. in the future ill be upgrading rods and pistons. witch leads me to my next question. witch pistons and rods work? i read somewhere that the pistons for the xev will work but the rods wont? the toga rods are decent and a decent price but i dont know which ones i need. which bearings should i get? now im looking for more power but i still need it to be a daily driver. i heard 11.5:1 is a good compression to get but is that to high to be daily driven? iv only done bolt ons on this motor and really dont know that much about it so part numbers, where/who to buy from, suggestions if you know of better parts, are all welcome and appreciated. thanks

[7-even]

anyone have any suggestions? i know i can get weisco pistons 86mm i believe? but then i need rods because the stock ones dont have floating wrist pins. whats a recommended compression ratio and rods from what motor.

[greenbluewoo]

if your going to upgrade the cams you might as well uprade the valvesprings to duel valvesprings from qed because your stock valvesprings might fail with the different cams.... as for the rods and pistons I used toga rods from a c20let, c20xe you can use pistons from these motors too but i would suggest to use the c20xe pistons as that was n/a engine as the c20let was turbo pistons and i got the rods from here importperformanceparts.net your comp ratio sounds fine for n/a setup but for the size of your pistons you would have to measure the bore hope this helps

[greenbluewoo]

the duel valvesprings you would need is from a c20xe from qed and you would need flat retainers to run duel valve springs

[7-even]

hey thanks for the reply. since the cams can go in without any mods do you think the dual springs might hurt the performance of the cams? also what bearings will i need, are the stock ones ok? anything else i should look into?

[greenbluewoo]

the dual valvesprings wont hurt your motor if anything they would save your motor from valve float at high rpm and if you get valve float that means your valve stays open when they should be closed and you may bend some valves its better be safe than sorry..... as for bearings I am using the stock ones just because my motor only had 55 miles on it but your better off getting new ones if your motor has more than 30,000 miles on it.. gse_turbo is selling some clevite rod bearings and mains and some other nice goodies for the 2.0 heres the link http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... 11&t=13300

[exist3nce]

Hey 7, just some background info..... here is a post by Garrett from my thread on migweb from a couple years ago...


X20XEV vs. U20SED (specifically 04-current US spec)

Motor Core: all the specs are all the same, this can be said for ALL 2.0 blocks with the only difference being minor variations of bore size over the years (with in 0.010"=.25mm). the difference is that the XEV comes with a manufacturer supplied main girdle, the U20SED does not. the provisions are not even in the US spec block. This is not a big deal, there are ways around it but all other specs are identical.

Crank: the cranks are identical to each other and are like the 8v cranks. the redtop crank is VERY different and is lighter weight.

Main Bearings: Identical

Rod Bearings: Identical to ALL 2.0 motors (and motors in the same "R90" family)

Connecting Rods: the rods are identical to each other and again are thin and come from the same casting as the 8v motors. this also means they use a pressed in piston pin. the dimensions otherwise are the same as ALL 2.0 motors and this means upgrading to redtop rods is a great option.

Pistons: they both use the same type pressed pin piston, the pistons and rings are the same quality but the compression ration is less in the State (strict emission regulations). the only CR available in the States (from the manufacturer) is 9.6:1

Head: I want to say that the casting are the some on all eco motors but for some reason I think the early eco motor came with NO emission equipment in Europe. The cams are different (or so is speculated, I'd like someone to spec an XEV cam for me to know for sure). the valves are said to be the same in all ways.

Inlets: identical

Throttle Bodies: SOME of the throttle bodies are the same, 98-05 are cable and 06-current are DBW in the States. Not really sure about the UK so I wont put my foot in my mouth.

Fuel System: HERE IS WHERE THINGS CHANGE! in ALL UK and European they use a fuel rail that has an inlet and a return with a pressure regulator. in the States the 98-03 eco uses an identical system. in the 04-current eco, the use a "returnless" fuel rail with no regulator. this means that the fuel can't be played with at all in the current US spec eco.

Flywheels: Identical, the both use the 8v type 6-bolt flywheel where the redtop uses an 8-bolt (as I'm sure everyone knows)

Ancillaries: like water pump, oil pump, cam pulleys, alternator... are the same.

hope I'm not for getting anything important...

cheers!


So basically as i understand it, all 2.0 blocks have the 86mm bore. 86mm stroke, 143mm rod.


I can't really say at what point you would have to machine the pistons, etc because I dont know lol. 11.5 CR sounds good though, so long as you always use premium gas. IMO, you can use the stock bearings if they're in good shape and the motor has been well maintained (regular oil changes with quality oil, etc). But if you are changing out the rods or opening up the bottom end, you should just change them anyways since they don't cost that much.

[7-even]

thanks exist3nce very helpful. im thinking im going to do these upgrades then figure out the transmission i have an hks f con IS on the way for tuning and a knock sensor, a/f meter. been slowly collecting parts over the last few months. i need to start thinking about some income i figure ill run with this set up for a while and see how i like it than either change things up for turbo or add itb's. itb's will basically be bolt on except ill have to change the engine management. qeds kit comes with everything witch is good but expensive. the good thing is the management is already somewhat tuned to run everything.the problem with itb's is nobody around me has experience with them. ill have to track someone down, still researching. turbo ill have to change pistons again but everything else should be ok. i also found out that sbd helped chevy develop there race motor, considering how close our motor is to the c20xe they might have some useful info. they did say they dont know much about the x20xev though.

[7-even]

hey exist3nce can you post a link to your return fuel line thread? ill need to start getting parts for that also. how is the mounting point where you put the fitting for the return line in the top of the fuel sending unit holding up? not sure if it was you or not but someone posted that where they mounted the fitting the plastic was to thin and it didnt really work. are you still using the stock fuel rail and injectors?
greenbluewoo witch motor are you building id be interested in hearing about your build. witch motor, specs, management how much hp your shooting for ect...

[greenbluewoo]

I'm building a u20sed and putting it in a lanos as for management I was going to use greddy emanage ultimate with turbosmart boost controler as for power I'm shooting for 350 hp heres my link so you can see what I have done http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... f=2&t=9969

[exist3nce]

hey exist3nce can you post a link to your return fuel line thread? ill need to start getting parts for that also. how is the mounting point where you put the fitting for the return line in the top of the fuel sending unit holding up? not sure if it was you or not but someone posted that where they mounted the fitting the plastic was to thin and it didnt really work. are you still using the stock fuel rail and injectors?

here is the link: http://daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.p ... &start=645

The fitting is holding up fine, we ended up using some JB weld in and around the fitting to get a good seal. We are using the stock rail, the dampener on the end of the rail is removable. Stock injectors are also being used along with the additional injectors just before the TB.

[7-even]

greenbluewoo looks like a nice build. did you end up machining the block? do you have the motor built yet?

[PrecisionBoost]

Just thought I'd mention I have a spare set of de-beamed / polished C20XE rods if you need to convert from press pin to floating pin.

PM me if you are interested, otherwise they go up on classifieds.

[7-even]

thanks for the offer. unfortunately i cant afford them right now.