2.0L 8V turbo C20GET Lemans

[GsiTurbo]

If you are willing to set up the non coilvoer, APEX suspension system or Bilstein with Eibach would be nice.

Or if you are thinking about the track, people here use the TRD short strock shock abosrber or QUEST(the company in S.Korea) for the Lanos.

And as you know Lanos is almost same with Lemans.

The suspension setup between the Lemans/Racer and the Lanos is mechanically identical. There are, however, two slight differences between the two. Rear shocks in the Lanos are about 2cm shorter than ones in Lemans (comparison between two KYB rear shocks). On the front end, the lower spring seat seems to sit just a tad lower in Lanos.

TRD as in Toyota Racing Develepments?? They make GM parts??

[Deathwind]

Yes TRD in Toyota Racing Department.

But just the cartridge.

We buy Cartridge and modify it to fit the Lanos.

[C20GET]

Chris,

E85 is not so common in the US as the internet might imply. But GM does make flex fuel vehicles which determine alky content of fuel and adjust accordingly. This strategy might work ok for you. Your car would be limited when running straight gasoline but that would reduce the amount of weight you carry and wouldn't tie you to any special fuel.

"Throttle feel" is a big, big deal. Linear vs non linear response, response time opening and closing, and feedback at pedal all make a difference. If you ever get a chance to drive a 1994 Chevy or GMC pickup with the electronically controlled 6.5 diesel and manual transmission you will understand how things can go wrong. Even after multiple attempts by GM's calibration engineers, the trucks were still difficult to drive. You might want to look for SAE or other articles on this subject.

But a side note is that the throttle pedal from one of the electronically controlled diesel trucks is a great choice for drive by wire. There's three sensors within the pedal for validating pedal position (no misinterpreted WOT commands that way) and the pedal "spring" feels just about right. Look for used as they seldom fail and new parts were $300 - $400 US last time I priced one.

Montana's nice country. I used to live about 50 miles from Billings.

Nice shade of red, btw.

[PrecisionBoost]

E85 is impossible to get here..... but I'd rather set it up as a dual system so that I don't have to contniuously measure out ratios to ensure that I have the right octane.

Bascily... I want it like nitrous.... flick the switch to turn on the secondary fuel pump and injector control.... change the boost map on my HKS EVC6 boost controller ( which is on it's way here )

Swap ignition maps in my programable MSD ignition system and it's ready for a much higher level of boost.

Some of the newer drive by wire systems have feedback controls to simulate pedal feel and response.... but I would be using the stock throttlebody in it's stock location as the "sender" unit to control the quad drive by wire units.... so I'm not using a pedal feedback system like most drive by wire.

[PrecisionBoost]

Well..... things were slow at work for the first time in two years.... so I took some time off (sort of) and pulled my car into the shop to work on it.

Got the old turbo off.... installed the new one.... I had to put in a spacer where the turbo attaches to the T3 flange (used one of the flanges I got from GSEturbo )

As well I had to grind a tiny bit off the factory engine mount (which is normal for anything other than the stock T25 ) but it fits nicely.

I rerouted some plumbing to get it further away from the manifold and did some work on setting up the wastegate.

The wastegate stuck up too high and I was worried that the hood was going to hit it so I made two new flanges on my lathe and created a 90 degree elbow (using a weld fitting )

I don't have pics yet.... but it looks good.... I'm hoping to finish up the oil supply and downpipe tommorow so I can fire it up.

On the "negative side" I noticed that the first cylinder on the right hand side it running lean ( could tell from the color of the exhaust port ) so I'm glad I removed the turbo at this point.

This is the exact same cylinder that caused GSiTurbo's C20GET to blow up...... for some reason it seems to run leaner than the rest of the cylinders.

We both agree that it may have something to do with the intake design as that first runner lines up so that it's facing the open throttle body.... so it probably sees more air than the rest.... especially under boost.

I will be fabricating a completly new intake at some point..... hopefully it will help the engine to breath a bit better.

So... although my Astra VXR injectors are friggin huge compared to stock.... they will also go in before starting up the car again.

It will run stinking rich at first but I have and adjustable fuel regulator that I can install.... so it shouldn't take long to get it back to normal.

[Efratech]

some news there....

why dont you use a intake from the Subird NA 2.0 MPFI ?

[PrecisionBoost]

I have thought about it.... but it's pretty easy for me to simply fabricate one.... I've spent the last couple days making stuff on the lathe and milling machine.... I have the pictures but I forgot my camera at work.... so I will upload them tommorow.

I can pretty much make any kind of flange inside of an hour ( roughly ).... so far it's cost me about $30 in steel.

The cool thing about making it yourself is that each and every part can be made to fit absolutely perfect.... I even incorporated ramped angles within the flanges when changing diameters.

I figure an intake is a three to four hour job..... but I won't be tackling that quite yet.... It will probably be the last thing I do since it's the least important right now.

[PrecisionBoost]

Here is the T3/T4 turbo from the passenger side



Here is the turbo from the driver side



Here is a picture of the wastegate..... I made the 90 degree bend out of mild steel and a weld fitting



Here is the old T25 compessor wheel from one of my dead T25 turbos..... made it into a key chain



Here are my Centerline Forged 18" rims...... I am having some Toyo T1R tires mounted this afternoon.



The last picture is of a mold I'm making..... I took a lemans fender and added a wheel flare from a Sunbird GT turbo car.

I coated it with six applications of wax and then sprayed it with a release agent.... then I covered the entire thing in 60 Durometer Urethane (from my local fiberglass supply store )

The knobs sticking out are actually screws underneath embedded into the Urethane.... the next step is for me to apply several layers of fibreglass to make the mold rigid (using the screws to help tighten the Urethane mold to the fibreglass structural mold.

[Efratech]

some nice progress there, the fender looks cool so does the turbo.

but dont you think 18s is a bit extreme? well extreme is your last name i guess.

btw why dont you change the water pickup of the radiator to the other side?

[PrecisionBoost]

The 18's are actually for my Optra5...... I will show some pics later when I download them off my phone.

They are rotary forged rims so they are very light..... and I need clearance if I'm going to put a Willwood big brake kit onto the car.

The Radiator is an aluminum AFCO "race" radiator and I don't want to screw with it.... it was fairly expensive.

I will probably change the piping around so you don't see it.... but for now this works just fine to get the car up and running.

[PrecisionBoost]

Well.... here is a picture of those 25" diameter tires....sitting next to the factory ones.



They rubbed the plastic inner fender when I made a U turn (full lock) and also when I went into dips in the road (thanks to my crappy factory struts )

Here is where the 225/40/18 tires rubbed on the front fenders....



As well there was some slight rubbing on the rear plastic inner fenders as well..



I'm actually surprized they worked.... and they look really good.... too bad the other pics are on my Phone... I will upload them later.

Ideally I would like to change the suspension on my Lemans and put these tires/rims onto that car.... since I will have wide fenders to accomidate the extra width and diameter.

[PrecisionBoost]

Here is the turbo downpipe I made..... I fabricated the flange to fit the factory exhaust system.



At this point it's just a matter of picking up a few bolts, an oil inlet/outlet for the turbo, installing the wastegate pipe and then all the electronics and intercooler.

[PrecisionBoost]

I have also been doing some research into the suspension of the Optra/Optra5/Reno/Forenza/Lacetti/Nubira versus the Leganza suspension.

The purpose of this is to convert the 4 X 4.5" pattern to a 5 X 4.5" pattern ( mainly for Kinkyllama who needs wider tires/rims )

I took indepth measurements and the front knuckle of the Forenza and Leganza seem to be identical.... so it's just a matter of swaping over the knuckle/hub/disks from a Leganza to a Forenza.

The rear is a little tricky.... they both use the exact same style suspension with a trailing arm and two latteral links and the knuckle from the Leganza does have the correct pattern to fit the Forenza strut.

But.... the lenghth of the bars are different.... so I'm going to cut and thread the bars (one lefthand thread one right hand thread) and install an adjustment nut (just like a tie rod)

This will allow the Forenza bars to match up with the leganza knuckle/hub/disk assembly and it will give the added benifit of making the suspension completely adjustable for Camber, Castor and Toe in/out.

Once I have a set of prototypes and have tested them on my own car I will probably turn the manufacturing over to Kenny (audacityracing) since this is his specialty.

So that's the good news..... anyone with a Lacetti based vehicle will be able to switch bolt patterns and get an adjustable rear suspension

Here is a couple of pics showing the suspension and where the three bars would need to be cut and threaded......

[PrecisionBoost]

Here are a few pictures of the large tires and 18" rims on my Optra5...

[Mr_Efficiency]

I'm a little late on this but did the lemans come factory with the C20GET?
Nice build btw, i cant wait to see some dyno numbers.
also, with my C20GET intake i welded over the throttle body hole and relocated the throttle body to the end of the intake and it fixed the leaning out in cyl 4 problem, not that you care since your making a fully custom inatke, but just figured i'd point it out to anyone else wanting to deal with this problem.