Domwoo's turbo project (got some new goodeis!!!! ) page 7

CustomLanos · Post by **CustomLanos** » Wed Nov 02, 2005 3:13 pm

So how is this project moving along? what the latest news, i really want to know how its coming out.

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 3:14 am

alls good.. got my egt system in and now i need to install it.. i havnt had anytime, so this weeked i should have it done and then i will be able to go for a good spin around town

i will get some vids of the car when its all said and done

daftmajin · Post by **daftmajin** » Thu Nov 03, 2005 3:23 am

WooHoo wrote:i will get some vids of the car when its all said and done

Please do!

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 8:30 pm

was driving the car today and when i boost over 5psi it starts to studder like its getting fuel cut

i have the map clamp set at 4.00 volts because WOT is 4.22

i am also adding 30% more fuel because thats about how much boost i am running, it could be the injectors are running out of steam at around 4kRPM, i am going to have to find a closed parking lot and do some testing on the laptop i guess

EGT system gets to about 850' - 900' but not past 900' so i think i need to get this thing on a dyno

Audacity Racing · Post by **Audacity Racing** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:04 pm

yeah, you're fuel cutting if your egt is getting like that...

Brian5475E · Post by **Brian5475E** » Sun Nov 20, 2005 11:09 pm

better watch it, getting to thoses tempscan make stuff melt

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 12:02 am

I would consider 900 degrees Fahrenheit to be nice and cool.

Some of the higher boost cars run up in the 1100 degree range.

I asked Tom and he agrees that 1200 is an evil bad number where the exhaust manifold turns cherry red and you start to have detonation issues.

I thought you were using an E-Manage piggyback fuel system.... why would you need a map clamp?

My thought on map clamps is to turn the ignition on without starting the car and measure the voltage for the set point = atmospheric pressure= 14.7 psi.

Say that voltage is 4.45V ... I would then adjust it so that it clamps the voltage at 4.44V

If you are clamping at 4.00V I have to wonder if your cutting fuel too early as you move into boost.

With that setting moved up closer to the voltage found with the engine not running it will dump in more fuel.

Are you using a check valve with your Map Clamp??

If not.... you should.... the Map Clamp is more of a "backup" than anything..... in case the check valve fails or there is a quick surge in pressure prior to it closing off.

Did you upgrade the fuel pump?

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge... or can you monitor that via laptop?

Given the lower exhaust temperatures I have to think it's not a "lean" situation...... perhaps it's just the opposite and the car is dumping in way way too much fuel.

12:1 is perfect for a turbo car..... if your jumping down to 9:1 it's possible that your running too rich and the car is miss firing.

Having said that.... there are a number of cars which like to run down in the 10:1 range (such as the SRT-4).... but a wideband O2 on a dyno will settle what it going on.

Do you have the ability to monitor knock sensor info??

Hopefully the local dyno shop should be ablt to let you know what is going on..... personally I won't go on anything other than a Dynojet.

Speaking of Dynojet..... they have an office in Montana (not sure where... probably Billings ).... you could always give them a call to see who they would recomend for tuning a turbo car.

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:16 am

yeah i figured it would be up in the 1000' range but its not so thats why i figured it might be getting to much fuel.. but i dont think thats possible running on the stock injectors and fuel pump. it must be the map sensor fuel cut

i have a brake valcumm check valve hooked up but i dont think it is working correctly because the car ran better with out it

i am getting ahold of some injectors off a eclipse turbo and i am going to order a booster fuel pump

getting it tuned is going to be the hard part.

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 2:58 am

Personally..... if I were you I'd get it on a dyno before buying any parts... just buying parts and throwing them in might not be the best idea.

I'm not 100% sure of what will happen to a 1 Bar MAP sensor if it goes past regular atmospheric pressure. ( it's designed to be used up to 14.7PSI.... so if you have 5 psi of boost your pushing on the sensor with 19.7PSI....but I'm not sure how fragile the MAP sensor is to added pressure.

I'd imagine that it's a solid state sensor but it's possible you might have damaged it if you ran it without the check valve. ( I will do some research)

By the way....... how much boost are you planning on running ???

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:36 am

right now i have been boosting it from about 3-5 psi for the time being but the map sensor works fine on the emanage charts its just when the check vavle is hooked up it doesnt run as good.. like its not reading right with the check vavle in place, maybe i am doing something wrong. i could always just get a missing link check vavle.

anyways. the car runs great at about 3 psi.. you can feel it pull but when it gets into high RPMs and goes over 4-5psi it will studder untill i let off the gas or change gears

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 3:36 am

Here is a good article on how a map sensor works.... it's a silicon wafer that bends as pressure increases.

www.autoshop101.com/forms/h35.pdf

I would imagine that it's designed to only bend so far.... so if a 1-BAR sensor is only designed to see atmospheric and you exceeded that via forced induction it stands to reason that the MAP sensor could break.

If the MAP sensor is screwed the ECU reverts back to a "theoretical" MAP sensor setting based upon the throttle position sensor.

I couldn't find anywhere that outright said when a 1-Bar MAP will become damaged but I did manage to find an article about a 2-Bar sensor.

I think it was a mustang.... the guy said his 2-bar MAP sensor died when his turbo threw out 20psi of boost (only designed for 15psi )

So... if a 2-Bar breaks when you go 5psi over it's "maximum" it stands to reason that perhaps your 1-Bar would become damaged with 5psi over atmospheric.

I really have no idea when a 1-Bar will break.... I do know that most guys throw in the check valve to ensure that the 1-Bar MAP won't see boost pressure.

Perhaps you need to try out another Lanos MAP sensor with a correctly installed check valve to see if that might be part of the problem.

The MAP clamp protects the ECU but it does nothing for the MAP.

Given I know a fair mount about electronics.... damage might not mean that it's showing 0V or 5V (open or short).... the Silicon wafer could be cracked and give false readings.

Anyways.... I thought I'd put that out there..... you still need to get on that DYNO ASAP in my opinion.

Perhaps you could bring a spare MAP.... if the dyno is all over the place on the first run.... try replacing it with the check valve and new MAP and see if it helps.

richardmatalon · Post by **richardmatalon** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 4:12 am

hey wehat plugs are u running, u might want to change those, i know that when i first turboes the car, it would shudder under higer boost levels, change the plugs and see if it channges. hey did u just get one of those aluminum rads for the civic off ebay liek i was saying or did u get a fludyne??? i am doing to get one soon, i want to do my manifold over first though, have a tubular that i am going to modify. did you ever find that email from summit racing to see what oil adapter u are using?? Also how does the tepms run??

DomWoo · Post by **DomWoo** » Mon Nov 21, 2005 5:31 am

well i figured out why it runs different with the check valve.. the weight of it pulls on the hose and along with boost it pops it off the little peg and the map then reads no vacumm

JC · Post by JC » Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:05 pm

you might want to check how much fuel pressure you have also when boost comes on, my car was acting the same way and i found out i was running 90psi when boost would come on and on hi-throttle, what are you using for fuel regulator or fmu(rrfpr)? also the way you may have the check valves installed might not be as effective.

JC · Post by JC » Mon Nov 21, 2005 7:32 pm

is your egt installed pre-turbine or on the downpipe?