Crankshaft won't turn!
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Crankshaft won't turn!
So I have a 1999 Daewoo Leganza and I took the head off and thier doesnt appear to be any rust just some carbon deposits. So I tried to get the crankshaft to turn by putting a breaker bar on the outside pulley bolt and got nothing. Am I screwed as in something is seized up, it's been sitting for 2 years that might have something to do with it? Any help would be appreciated.
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mezomaster
- Expert
- Posts: 354
- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:51 pm
- Location: Egypt-Giza
- Contact:
u mean the crank doesnt move clockwise or to other side?
if u took the cylinder head and the crank still doesnt move then there must be something stuck or broken inside the block, try removing the oil pan and look inside the block...u may find a broken part and mostly it maybe a connecting rod.
keep us posted and good luck, hope its something easy and not serious...
if u took the cylinder head and the crank still doesnt move then there must be something stuck or broken inside the block, try removing the oil pan and look inside the block...u may find a broken part and mostly it maybe a connecting rod.
keep us posted and good luck, hope its something easy and not serious...
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
+ 1
This may be an obvious question..
but I have to ask it......
Did you have the transmission out of gear/park when you tried to turn the engine?
and.....
What was the reason it first was parked 2 years ago ?
There is the possibility that ring/s are rusted to the cylinder walls. At this point it won't hurt to squirt WD40 and light weight engine oil (a mix) on to the top of the pistons and let it seep down overnight. We use to break frozen/seized up motorcycle engines this way. Oil piston tops, put in gear and rock forward and back slowly.
The ones we broke free usually burned more oil than before and we were not always successful.
Anyway,
good luck !
As mesomaster said..."Keep us posted"
This may be an obvious question..
but I have to ask it......
Did you have the transmission out of gear/park when you tried to turn the engine?
and.....
What was the reason it first was parked 2 years ago ?
There is the possibility that ring/s are rusted to the cylinder walls. At this point it won't hurt to squirt WD40 and light weight engine oil (a mix) on to the top of the pistons and let it seep down overnight. We use to break frozen/seized up motorcycle engines this way. Oil piston tops, put in gear and rock forward and back slowly.
The ones we broke free usually burned more oil than before and we were not always successful.
Anyway,
good luck !
As mesomaster said..."Keep us posted"
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Well I went ahead and put the mix in I'll let it sit for a while and see what happens. Now let me ask a dumb question, why would it matter if the car was in park or not? It's an automatic, the transmission was in neutral and the parking brake was off when I did it, just trying to figure out why that would matter?
-
mezomaster
- Expert
- Posts: 354
- Joined: Thu Jul 13, 2006 6:51 pm
- Location: Egypt-Giza
- Contact:
if u leave the transmission still attached to the block, and u leaving it on the park then it will lock the engine and prevent it from moving
>2004 Nubira, 1.6L (Manual Transmission)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
>Custom made cold air intake
>Custom made headers & 2" pipe with mid Walker filter and rear Jasma-5Ziegen muffler
>Custom made intake manifold with 2.0L TB and larger injectors (soon to be done)
The good news is he probably gave you a good deal.JT353 wrote:............ I bought from a guy who snapped the timing belt.................
The bad news is:
Strange things happen when the belt lets go.
It's never good.
Sometimes they 'snap'.
Sometimes they just get all chewed up. And sometimes they do both.
Right after the t-belt dies most people will try to restart the engine. This makes a bad situation worse.
More damage occurs.
Like (possibly) more bent valves, head damage and even piston/rod/crankshaft damage.
Subsequent starting attempts also can jam small rubber pieces around the pulley, covers and crankshaft gear.
This could 'lock' the crankshaft in place.
If you haven't already? You can verify if yours is clear of left over t-belt by removing all of the t-belt covers the crankshaft pulley and the crankshaft gear (i'ts 'keyed' and will pull off)
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
So I took the advice of an old mechanic and he said to use ATF fluid and let it sit and then slowly press on the cylinders until they move then coat them and repeat, so i got them moving and thier appears to be no cylinder wall scoring and they are in good shape. I cleaned them all out and swabbed the sides, thier were also some hardened timing belt pieces in the shaft area, however they were not interfering with rotation. So now I have a new problem I want to put the shaft pulley on but don't know which way to line it up (4 possible ways so that the timing belt gets put on the right way.
It's not the pulley that you line up, its the crankshaft gear and its keyed so it only goes on one way.
It has a pointer/arrow stamped onto the face of it that you line up w/a mark on the lower tin.
I think the Leganza is the same as the Lanos when it comes to setting the timing marks.
If I'm wrong? I hope a "Leganza knowledgeable" forum member will correct me.
So, take a look at #1 (under installation) and #21 under removal) in this "How To" for a Lanos 1.6 DOHC
(Many thanks to MMamdouh for the 'How To')
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2746
Hope this helps
P.S. That "old mechanic" is almost as smart as I am...
It has a pointer/arrow stamped onto the face of it that you line up w/a mark on the lower tin.
I think the Leganza is the same as the Lanos when it comes to setting the timing marks.
If I'm wrong? I hope a "Leganza knowledgeable" forum member will correct me.
So, take a look at #1 (under installation) and #21 under removal) in this "How To" for a Lanos 1.6 DOHC
(Many thanks to MMamdouh for the 'How To')
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2746
Hope this helps
P.S. That "old mechanic" is almost as smart as I am...
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
So I got the timing belt on yet I am having the same problem as the guy below. The Pointer moves after its been aligned and the bolt is been tightened. THe difference from the lanos is the tensioner has its own key that you turn in order to align the pointer much easier than the lanos, and then you tighten the bolt to set it. If anyone could help me with this problem tha twould be a big help.
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... =tensioner
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... =tensioner
Leganza, sorry I have yet to work on one. So I am not sure how big a difference there is when it comes to doing a T-Belt job.
You didn't mention the water-pump ?
On the lanos it has to be turned to set the tension. Did you read the reply I posted on this thread ? It may be relevant.
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... =tensioner
Are you working from the Factory Service Manual ? or just "winging it" ?
You didn't mention the water-pump ?
On the lanos it has to be turned to set the tension. Did you read the reply I posted on this thread ? It may be relevant.
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtop ... =tensioner
Are you working from the Factory Service Manual ? or just "winging it" ?
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Yeh , I own both a Lanos and Leganza, The leganzas timing is actually set on the tensioner itself the water pump gets locked into a fixed position. Yes, I am using the service manual, I try to be as meticulous as possible in terms of following it to the T. Probably more than I should be I just can't figure it out. Thanks for the help.