This is a general question for anyone who has pulled there engine.
Does your car have air conditioning ? If so, what did you do about it? I cant go to town to have the R134 "evacuation procedure" done.
Nor do I have the equipment to do it.
I can unbolt the plate where the lines go into (and out of, I guess) the A/C compressor.
I figure by doing that I will lose the R134 out of the system. Which can be replaced when the car is back running. Wonder how safe this is ?
Did this once on a Ford, used gloves, eye protection and wrenched it at arms length. That worked out ok.
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Make sure to disconnect the low pressure side first (it will still spray), then the high pressure. It's ok, though quite nasty to the enviroment. I've been forced to do it before.
Audacity Racing wrote:Make sure to disconnect the low pressure side first (it will still spray), then the high pressure. It's ok, though quite nasty to the enviroment. I've been forced to do it before.
Thanks A.R.
I'l do just that !
I'm about 70 miles from an A/C shop and of course the car is too.
I hope the R134 is a little more enviromentaly friendly than the old freon was.
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
from what ive heard the new refrigerant (i cant remember which one it is) is ok to dump into the envireoment, its CFC free (or some shit like that) so i say just dump it
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You do not need to disconnect the AC. I pulled my engine many times unfortunately and never had to disconnect it.
Just unbolt the compressor from the mounting bracket and tie it up using bungie cords so it doesn't put any strain on the AC lines.
daewooluvr wrote:You do not need to disconnect the AC. I pulled my engine many times unfortunately and never had to disconnect it.
Just unbolt the compressor from the mounting bracket and tie it up using bungie cords so it doesn't put any strain on the AC lines.
THANKS EVERYONE ! I feel better now.
And daewooluvr, Shaun ?
Your takin about your 2000 Lanos right ?
Thats what I have, a 2000 Lanos (hatchback) if it worked for you ? It will work for me.
Sounds good ! And will save me some a/c shop $ when I get back on the road with this car.
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
You can leave the alternator on the engine, its attached to it, so no worries,and they suggest you to pull the pwr steering pump pulley cause its a tight fit in there, and you don't want it damaged.. but there is room to pull it out, but i would keep it on there and be careful pulling out the engine.
My friends had a pulley that got stuck under the body work when hoisting the engine, and it bent the pulley and the shaft of it. But removing the pulley as i see it, is a waste of effort at this point. You can get the engine out regardless of what you do to that.
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lanowoo wrote:You can leave the alternator on the engine, its attached to it, so no worries,and they suggest you to pull the pwr steering pump pulley cause its a tight fit in there, and you don't want it damaged.. but there is room to pull it out, but i would keep it on there and be careful pulling out the engine.
My friends had a pulley that got stuck under the body work when hoisting the engine, and it bent the pulley and the shaft of it. But removing the pulley as i see it, is a waste of effort at this point. You can get the engine out regardless of what you do to that.
Thanks Lanowoo !
I can see how it might get stuck and if I can get a wrench in on those bolts, I will pull it off. If I can't ? it stays and goes along with the engine. Apreciate your reply.
Oh yeah ?....
And how about the starter ?
Kinda tight to take it out while the engine is in the car, I would rather leave it but wondering if one of its mounting bolts is into the transaxle or not ? Im thinking I can leave it on the engine. Yes or no ?
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
lanowoo wrote:You can leave the alternator on the engine, its attached to it, so no worries,and they suggest you to pull the pwr steering pump pulley cause its a tight fit in there, and you don't want it damaged.. but there is room to pull it out, but i would keep it on there and be careful pulling out the engine.
My friends had a pulley that got stuck under the body work when hoisting the engine, and it bent the pulley and the shaft of it. But removing the pulley as i see it, is a waste of effort at this point. You can get the engine out regardless of what you do to that.
Thanks Lanowoo !
I can see how it might get stuck and if I can get a wrench in on those bolts, I will pull it off. If I can't ? it stays and goes along with the engine. Apreciate your reply.
Oh yeah ?....
And how about the starter ?
Kinda tight to take it out while the engine is in the car, I would rather leave it but wondering if one of its mounting bolts is into the transaxle or not ? Im thinking I can leave it on the engine. Yes or no ?
Again, thanks
No, you'll want to remove the alternator so that you can get to the starter bolts. I used a couple extensions and a swivvel. You will have to remove the starter to separate the engine from the transmission. As for the power steering pulley, it doesn't really help to remove it because the mount for it is right behind it and it only saves you like 1/8" inch.
I guess the Leganza is a bit different. I had to take off the alternator but left the starter on. I used every extension I had (about 2 foot) and sat right next to the wheel well, and removed the trans to engine bolts next to (or part of) the starter. The starter, however, stayed on the motor.
I understand what everyone is saying. I just wish the starter was easier to get at !
And the power steering pump pulley ? I see the close clearance and now ( thanks Shaun) don't think it will be a problem if I'm carefull and keep an eye on it as the engine goes up and out.
I'm rained out today. So all I can do is make plans and organize all the parts and nuts/ bolts etc.
Oh well, I'm retired and we do need the rain.
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
lanowoo wrote:That one is fine. the R-12 and R-13 refrigerants are the ones that you ahve to have a liscense for and stuff so just do it XD.
I do commercial and industrial refrigeration for a living and venting any refrigerant in the atmosphere is illegal. R-134a is just as harmfull as venting R-12. R-134 is safer because is does not have as much CFC. Your not suppost to do it!!
What little bit you cannot recover can be released and is not a problem with the EPA laws(deminimus). If you are working on a car in a shop and you could have somebody looking over your shoulder. They could take a pic or small video with their phone and turn you in. All licences can be taken and there is a hefty fine for something like that.
If you are in your garage and fixing your own car i wouldnt worry about it.
Be sure to change filter dryer and oil if you open the system. Those two things are made to absorbe moisture. If a system is left open you can get moisture or noncondesables in your systemand it could cause problems "down the road"!! hehe
2001 Lanos 1.6
--1.25 Eibach Pro kit
--2 1/4 Pro 1 catback
--custom intake (short ram)
--port and polished head
--port and polished TB
--port and polished intake manifold
--Kenwood head
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lanowoo wrote:That one is fine. the R-12 and R-13 refrigerants are the ones that you ahve to have a liscense for and stuff so just do it XD.
I do commercial and industrial refrigeration for a living and venting any refrigerant in the atmosphere is illegal. R-134a is just as harmfull as venting R-12. R-134 is safer because is does not have as much CFC. Your not suppost to do it!!
What little bit you cannot recover can be released and is not a problem with the EPA laws(deminimus). If you are working on a car in a shop and you could have somebody looking over your shoulder. They could take a pic or small video with their phone and turn you in. All licences can be taken and there is a hefty fine for something like that.
If you are in your garage and fixing your own car i wouldnt worry about it.
Be sure to change filter dryer and oil if you open the system. Those two things are made to absorbe moisture. If a system is left open you can get moisture or noncondesables in your systemand it could cause problems "down the road"!! hehe
Your point is well taken Tx and for a professional like yourself, I understand why it is a 'must-do'.
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For the "non-professional refrigeration" people working in the backyard ?......
If at all possible? the following is the best way to do it. This worked for me on my Lanos engine.
And it saves work, time, money, your a/c system and even the air:
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daewooluvr wrote: "You do not need to disconnect the AC. I pulled my engine many times unfortunately and never had to disconnect it.
Just unbolt the compressor from the mounting bracket and tie it up using bungie cords so it doesn't put any strain on the AC lines."
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"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
