Daewoo Lanos 1.6 head rebuild and timing belt.

[Rust Never Sleeps]

Daewoo Lanos 1.6 head rebuild and timing belt.

First I would like to say this forum has came in very handy during this process and I feel obligated to file a report because some of the most helpful posts on this matter were from members posting after the fact once they had finished their particular rebuild/replacement/fix. I preface this with saying the Daewoo head rebuild presented more than its fair share of challenges and should not be undertaken lightly but with some decent mechanic skills its not that difficult just more less a pain here and there. I made the mistake of starting the project without a repair manual but you can download a Lanos repair manual from thePiratesbay.org.

(1)I fired the Engine up once all was bolted back together and she fired right up after a cough or two. Came to life but not without some ticking lifters for awhile and then all smoothed out. A welcome sound after two weeks of wrench turning in the evenings. So heres how it went.
(2) The tear down was fairly straight forward. I do suggest bagging misc bolts and labeling them.
(a) I simply unbolted the intake manifold and pushed it back out of the way.
(b) Exhaust was not difficult to remove at all if you first spray everything with liquid wrench or WD-40.
(c) Valve cover was a pain as the eleven cap covers were very difficult to remove. Each one had to be pried off one by one.
(d) Once all the external belts, pulleys, and crank pulley is removed you have access to the plastic cover which retains the timing belt and assorted pulleys. Again the timing cover is fairly straight forward to remove. A impact is handy for removing the crank bolt. Let me say here the steering pump is a design disaster on this engine. It is compacted in with hardly any room to do anything with it. You learn this right off just trying to remove the pulley. The steering pump is located dead center and is in the way of anything you do. I found the pulley has to be removed and replaced with the steering pump as a unit.
(3)Going back together was of course slower than the tear down.
(a) Had the head checked to see if it was cracked and trued up. Completely rebuilt the head including new valves. I like doing my own valve jobs but this little head was a real challenge.
(b) Once the head was done all the parts arrived. I ordered most of the parts from Ebay because of availability and price. I did purchase a Goodyear timing belt local and a set of valves for reasonable. A couple of Junk Yard runs for miscellaneous parts. I did replace the timing cover as it was cracked.
(c)Head went back on no problem except the TTY bolts acted real strange. Threads were clean but still the sequencing was all off on some bolts.
(d) The water pump for reasons unknown was welded onto the block and was a bear to remove. No rust, its like the anti-freeze just glued it to the block. The water pump adjusting tool can be ordered from Amazon for like $12 USD
(e) It goes without saying to clean and check any old parts you are re-using. On went the metal backing plate and then first thing is to put the steering pump back on before you install the head. Timing belt installation very straight forward but a good video to watch on
YouTube.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qaWyvBC-jCk
(f) The rest is just dotting eyes and cross the tees hooking up all the little stuff and as they say the Devil is in the details.
(g) Do this slow and right and all will be fine.

Let me add this disclaimer that my description is merely an overview and not meant as a step by step official process and more just an old shade tree mechanic doing his thing.

[Daniel]

Thanks for sharing your experience. Hopefully for me the PS pump is outside the block on european 1.6DOHC so it's not that nightmare doing a timing job.

[greg409]

Nice, phil

I just did the same to my 2000 nubira 2.0

I had put on an ITM? belt 14k ago, it broke unexpectedly (frayed like it was just snapped) - (6) valves, new bolts, tensioner & gaskets later with a new Gates belt - (appeared much more robust) - it's back on the road.

The GMB waterpump and idlers from previous were still like new.

(I'm retired so it only took (2) days in my garage.)

My Avalon's getting a goodyear gatorback, I like them for acc belts.

greg

[Rust Never Sleeps]

so it's not that nightmare doing a timing job.

Not a nightmare just a real pian in the ass =) But ya, the poweer steering pump needs to be external.

[Rust Never Sleeps]

it broke unexpectedly (frayed like it was just snapped)

The timing belt was fried in my case and snapped going 70 MPH.

The belt came in the kit I used it at the 60,000 mile replacement. Although the belt did go 38,000 miles I knew better than to let it go that far as the belt did not look to have the quality of a Goodyear. Even though I did use a Gatorback this time I will do the next belt change at 130,000 mark.

When I say shade tree mechanic I mean shade tree because the garage is full of...well...other cars and its hot as hell in there compared to the shade tree =)