Lanos 2k 1.4 starts then dies NEW

[weirdscenes]

Howdy gents.

I posted in topic Lanos - water pump adjustment last week,

As of tonight I am back to the original fault.
Engine cranks, starts immediately then dies.
Please bear with me here, I live in a village, have no transport (can't get to a breakers yard) I have no assistance (so no-one to crank the engine while I check spark and fuel) I need to get it running so that I can find employment as cash has run out.

Right - Heres where I'm at.
Turn ignition on. Fuel pump runs 2 secs, immobiliser light goes off, brake light on, battery light on, engine service light on (solid) airbag light on but goes off after a couple of seconds.

Start car - engine cranks , fires immediately sounds good, eng service light goes off, eng sounds lumpy after a couple of secs - will rev briefly when I press throttle then dies. less than 20 seconds total.
Car will ALMOST restart on next immediate attempt, cranks, almost catches then starter motor sounds like it's disengaged.

After failed start -
Bridge A+B on ALDL outlet - engine light flashes code 12 repeatedly (in a loop) but no other codes.

I have checked and adjusted timing belt so now know timing is good.
I have checked all wiring to-and-from the ECU all OK
Ditto all fuses,fuseholders, plugs and sockets and wiring at and around the interior fuse unit. Have had a good scrutiny of all sensor plugs and wiring - nothing obvious.
I have followed the idle learn procedure several times.

My instinct is telling me it's not getting a spark shortly after it starts, possibly it's also losing fuel supply ?
Although I am an electrical eng, I have never worked on a car withan electronic control system before and for the past 10 years or more have had a company car so no need to develop an interest.
Any help greatly appreciated..

For anyone who is interested I've posted an update on my water pump adjustment issue in that topic.
Tony

[weirdscenes]

Sorry folks
I forgot to say - I HAVE searched in all the related posts and have not found much that relates to my problem.

Tomorrow I plan to check fuel flow somehow (I have some pressure gauges and hope I can make an adaptor).
I also want to remote start the engine while I check for spark - but need to find out how/where to attach a push button for this - any tips welcome.
When I removed the plugs they were black (but no heavy carbon build up) I think this suggests very rick mixture ??
Tony

[Daniel]

Hi Tony,

I don't know if I have correctly understood your sentence in your other post concerning Tbelt job:

screwdriver inserted through the cam sensor toothed-wheel which is immediately behind the crankshaft pulley, and wedge it under the crancase lip

Did you jammed this toothed wheel? Please comment.


If so I would check that the inner&outer parts of this wheel have not slipped over giving you incorrect ignition timing.
Just a idea.

Daniel,

Edit: BTW is the woodruff key still in place?

[weirdscenes]

Hi Daniel
Thanks for your response.
I'm guessing the drawing shown in your post is from the DOHC engine ?
On my 1.4 SOHC lanos, the toothed wheel is behind the crancshaft pulley at the bottom of the engine (directly in-line with the camshaft pulley). It is not solid as shown in the manual. It has slot cut-outs all the way around. If you imagine that the pulley is at the bottom of the engine instaed of as shown then your red arrow is shown at about 7 o-clock position. I inserted a star screwdriver through one of the slots and under the lip of the crankcase to wedge the pulley/toothed wheel.
Yes key is in and wheel is correct.
As stated the engine does start and runs for a few seconds and sounds OK timing wise before it dies.If it was a valve timing issue I would think it would not start as promptly or run evenly.
I stripped back to the belt to check and make sure it was correctly lined up because the previous owner told me the head gasket and timing belt had been replaced recently.
I have checked out the crankshaft position sensor and wiring as per the manual and am 95% sure it's OK.
I have also read in other that if this sensor fails the engine will still run.

Thanks for yor comments though