Tried the search, I understand the process of changing the timing belt. My question is, how do I get enough tenstion on the belt in areas not taken care of by the belt tensioner. For example how do I get the belt tight enough between the two cam pullies and again on the right side from the crank to the cam pully. I know the belt tightening is taken car of on the left side by the water pump and tensioner. I am worried about having one side tight and one side loose. and I am double worried about the belt tension being too little between the cam pullies and the marks becoming un aligned. I can't afford a dealer to do this job, so I am counting on your advice to get me through it. I will be doing this change in the fall when I am close to the 60K mark, Thanks a million!
2007 Chevy Aveo 1.6L E-Tec II 34,000 Miles
questions about timing belt change that I could not answer
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20aveowoo07
- Posts: 8
- Joined: Mon Mar 10, 2008 10:56 pm
- Location: E-Town PA
Hi 20aveowoo07
You don't need to worry about the belt being tight and loose as long as the tensioner is operating correctly.
The tensioner exists to take any slack out of the belt and to keep the timing as exact as possible.
Because the crankshaft, cam gears, water pump, idler pulleys and tensioner all operate on independant axles, when the tensioner applies tension to the belt, the tension is applied along the belt by the materials and method of the belt construction and all parts of the belt feel the same stretch. Therefore as long as all crankshaft, camshaft gears and timing belt cover marks are all aligned correctly, then when the crankshaft turns, the belt will pull directly on the exhaust camshaft gear and in turn the intake camshaft gear.
This is why it is very, very, very important when you do the timing belt change to start off with all the timing marks in alignment before you remove the belt. Then you must ensure the engine timing parts are not moved while up take off the belt and replace the new belt. The new belts are often quite stiff and you must be careful to ease it onto the gears without them moving. Finally before you put the belt covers back on, do a final check to make sure the timing marks are aligned correctly with the tensioner operating. From then on the tensioner will do its job of keeping the belt tight over its entire length.
Good luck with the timing belt change when you do it.
You don't need to worry about the belt being tight and loose as long as the tensioner is operating correctly.
The tensioner exists to take any slack out of the belt and to keep the timing as exact as possible.
Because the crankshaft, cam gears, water pump, idler pulleys and tensioner all operate on independant axles, when the tensioner applies tension to the belt, the tension is applied along the belt by the materials and method of the belt construction and all parts of the belt feel the same stretch. Therefore as long as all crankshaft, camshaft gears and timing belt cover marks are all aligned correctly, then when the crankshaft turns, the belt will pull directly on the exhaust camshaft gear and in turn the intake camshaft gear.
This is why it is very, very, very important when you do the timing belt change to start off with all the timing marks in alignment before you remove the belt. Then you must ensure the engine timing parts are not moved while up take off the belt and replace the new belt. The new belts are often quite stiff and you must be careful to ease it onto the gears without them moving. Finally before you put the belt covers back on, do a final check to make sure the timing marks are aligned correctly with the tensioner operating. From then on the tensioner will do its job of keeping the belt tight over its entire length.
Good luck with the timing belt change when you do it.
Lanos - Lots of engineering packed into one little space
Lanos SX 1.6lt DOHC 5spd 09/1997 220kms - No Mods
Lanos SX 1.6lt DOHC 5spd 09/1997 220kms - No Mods
Welcome 20aveowoo07,
The water pump is actually the key to tensioning the belt. You have to loosen it's three bolts to release the tension on the old belt for removal. And you need to rotate it a little when you install the new one.
I recommend you study this:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2746
You won't need a special tool to turn the water pump. I used giant 'channel locks' to do mine.
You will need an impact wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt though.
if you have a lot of miles on your engine, you should replace the water-pump too.
p.s. when you line up the cam marks? you need to hold one of the cams (open end wrench on cam square 'shoulder' next to gear) or you will be off one tooth (note the red marks M.Mamdouh put on the cam marks in the illustration he so kindly posted.
let us know your progress, most of us have done the work you are about to do.
The water pump is actually the key to tensioning the belt. You have to loosen it's three bolts to release the tension on the old belt for removal. And you need to rotate it a little when you install the new one.
I recommend you study this:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2746
You won't need a special tool to turn the water pump. I used giant 'channel locks' to do mine.
You will need an impact wrench to remove the crankshaft pulley bolt though.
if you have a lot of miles on your engine, you should replace the water-pump too.
p.s. when you line up the cam marks? you need to hold one of the cams (open end wrench on cam square 'shoulder' next to gear) or you will be off one tooth (note the red marks M.Mamdouh put on the cam marks in the illustration he so kindly posted.
let us know your progress, most of us have done the work you are about to do.
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Hi Spider
Thanks for the extra information. Can I ask what giant 'channel locks' look like? I might know them under a different name.
I was looking for something to use when I did my timing belt change.
gb2615
Thanks for the extra information. Can I ask what giant 'channel locks' look like? I might know them under a different name.
I was looking for something to use when I did my timing belt change.
gb2615
Lanos - Lots of engineering packed into one little space
Lanos SX 1.6lt DOHC 5spd 09/1997 220kms - No Mods
Lanos SX 1.6lt DOHC 5spd 09/1997 220kms - No Mods
http://www.mytoolstore.com/chnnlock/groove.htmlgb2615 wrote:Hi Spider
Thanks for the extra information. Can I ask what giant 'channel locks' look like? I might know them under a different name.
I was looking for something to use when I did my timing belt change.
gb2615
They need to be of good quality and about 14~16 inch handles.
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Thanks Spider
I know them as Multi-grips. I even own several types and never gave them a thought for a solution to the water pump spanner. I got round it with a piece of cut flat plate steel adapted from another use.
You are right about the need for good handles and leverage.
gb2615
I know them as Multi-grips. I even own several types and never gave them a thought for a solution to the water pump spanner. I got round it with a piece of cut flat plate steel adapted from another use.
You are right about the need for good handles and leverage.
gb2615
Lanos - Lots of engineering packed into one little space
Lanos SX 1.6lt DOHC 5spd 09/1997 220kms - No Mods
Lanos SX 1.6lt DOHC 5spd 09/1997 220kms - No Mods