Project Daewoo Lanos 2.0L Turbo

Post by **Efratech** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 2:09 pm

i think he has the 1.5 8v.... so less weight... the american version of every brand/model is always heavier than other countrys...

mocpac · Post by **mocpac** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 4:11 pm

Any way is a good idea. Any one know the engine # o model of the nubira 2.0l ?

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 11:53 pm

daewooluvr wrote:
Your weights are a little big off. The stock Lanos weighs 2450 without driver. Now add the additional weight of the 2.0T and you're going to be somewhere upwards of 2600 without driver. Always figure in your own weight when calculating 1/4mi E/Ts

I took the curb weight of each of those cars from Motor Trend so they don't include driver weight either.

Although the 2.0L is heavier.... I plan to strip the car so I figure I should be able to manage about 2200lbs with me in it (2000 curb weight)

I know of a guy with a 12s Sunbird daily driver that comes in at 2400lbs with him in it. Given the Sunbird is quite a bit larger I'm guessing that the Lanos should end up a couple hundred pounds lighter.

That's how I came up with the guess that I did.....it's really hard to say what it will really end up being...I guess we will see in the spring.

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Oct 06, 2003 11:59 pm

TheGreatAndPowerfulOz wrote:Because my other automotive love are old air-cooled Volkswagons, I always go to the VW shows.

I saw a 1963 VW Beetle run the 1/4 mile in 7.229 secs @ 189.72 mph.

I had a 1967 bettle with the dual port 1600.... I could light up both tires for four to six feet with the stock engine.

I loved my Beetle but it had cancer and had to go away to someone who felt like spending massive amounts of money to replace all the rotting undercarrige parts.

It looked good from the outside but I could push my finger through most of the unibody underneath the car....and there were large rust holes in my front suspension.

I'm sure it's resting peacfully in some farmers field somewhere around town.

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Tue Oct 07, 2003 2:01 pm

Here are just a couple of the pictures I uploaded... hopefully this link works....

http://ca.f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/erf ... ph&.view=t

The hoods are designs I am somewhat interested in doing for the Lanos.

gti_7 · Post by **gti_7** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 8:29 pm

[quote="Erfinder"]

In it's stock form it will take 12psi no problem with a resulting net output of about 250Whp. (300hp@crank)

not trying to argue.. i always thought stock a turbo j-body was running from 9-11psi.. giving you 165hp/175ft-lbs.. non-intercooled.. is this wrong? what sort of cooler are you going to be using?

Bernard

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sat Oct 11, 2003 11:52 pm

If you simply take the stock engine and bring it from a stock 7psi to 12psi you really aren't going to see a huge change in power. Say 165hp at the crank (137WHP) to 205hp at crank (168Whp)..... this is with the Stock ECU and no modifications.

The power comes from doing stuff like porting the head, enlarging the throttle body, less restrictive exhaust, INTERCOOLER, ignition system with controler and a whole lot of retuning the fuel maps for 91-94 octane (could use an A'PEXi S-AFC or get the EEPROM flashed with updated fuel maps).

I may also need to upgrade the injectors or add a fifth injector (won't know until I get it on the dyno)

So I may not have been all that specific about how the 250Whp is made... so I'm sorry if I lead a few people along the thinking that a simple boost in pressure would result in major power from a totally stock engine.

What I was trying to say that the stock internal components (pistons/con rods/ head/ crankshaft) will take 250Whp+ without a problem and that with most or all the modifications above I feel 12PSI will easilly make 250Whp.

The only thing I've heard is that it's wise to replace the stock bolts with an ARP bolt kit (connecting rod bolts tend to fail )

I personally want to take the next step and get a 16V head so that I can change cam profiles and timing (adjustable cam gears)

I've seen many a guy on the net with 2.0L turbo 16V engines make power in the 380whp to 400whp range. (with stock internals)

I've seen quite a number of 2.0L turbo 8V engines make 250whp to 285whp. (with stock internals)

I would say that with mild modifications and an increase in boost to 12psi you should be able to make 190whp..... but the torque would be huge... partially due to our gear ratios in the F16 (over 200lb ft).

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 12:03 am

GsiTurbo is making some serious power.... but I'm not sure how modified his engine is. ( I think he still uses the stock ECU without any method of fine tuning the fuel map.....but I could be wrong)

I can't remember off hand but I think it was 187hp and something like 240lb-ft of torque

You have to remember that the gear ratio makes a big difference in how much horsepower you make.....realisticly torque is the primary factor and horsepower is simply made from that torque based upon gearing and RPM.

The Lanos gear ratio's are different than the Sunbird so even stock the numbers are going to be different in a Lanos comparted to a Sunbird.

Hopefully he reads this and will post the info on his engine ( horsepower,torque, modifications)

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 12:16 am

I don't know what kind of intercooler I'm going to use..... I know quite a bit about Thermodynamics (from Engineering) and I was really interested in making a fully insulated water to air heat exchanger (better known as an intercooler) that uses both the outside air and an external coolant source (thinking about using CO2)

Ideally it would be great if I could manage to design a system that cools the intake charge to ambiant or less (CO2 released from liquid to gas which cools the water bigtime.... which then transfers to the intake air )

I was also contemplating using a coolant like R134 (air conditioning freon).

I could run the A/C compressor and charge up a couple of tanks of liquid R134 for use during race..... the A/C would be turned off for the race.... I would just have to make sure that there is enought of a resevoir to last a few minutes.

I'd also like to use another type of "oxidizer" similar to Nitrous....this "oxidizer" releases oxygen under high heat and pressure situations and the remaining part of the molecule vaporizes during the end of the power stroke and "soaks up" the heat from the exhaust charge which will reduce the operating temperature of the cylinder/pistons/head allowing for more boost without the fear of detonation.

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 12:26 am

Being and Electronics Eng. Tech. and a manufacturer of electronics (among other things) I'd also like to make a standalone fuel management system with an integrated touch screeen LCD display and boost controler.

The system will first plug into the factory ECU and learn the fuel and ignition maps....then it will allow you to remove the ECU and it will work just like the stock ECU.....and the you can adjust the fuel maps/ignition maps and boost control maps.

As such you can press "stock" and the engine will drop the boost to factory setings and adjust the fuel and ignition maps accordingly.

Then you can press something like "street #1" and it boosts the pressure up to say 15psi and adjusts everything accordingly.

Then you can press "track #1" and it will switch a fuel solinoid to suck in high octane fuel from a rubber bladder fuel cell in your trunk and boost the pressure to say 22psi with adjustments to all "dyno tuned" maps.

The great thing will be that it won't need an external Laptop....the computer will allready be integrated into the system and display via the touch screen LCD. So you can sit in your car on the dyno and simply adjust things as you move along the power band.

I have a billion ideas but very little time to work on them..... my company will be expanding next July when I take over 51% ownership and this is one of the directions I want to move into. (the other is car audio/home audio and guitar amplifiers)

Sorry for the long post........I talk too much

KeNiCHi · Post by **KeNiCHi** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 12:54 pm

Is really amazing what american people can make to their cars. Here in Spain is practically impossible to make any modification without legal problems (?fine?)

Any Spanish Daewoo onwers around?

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 5:18 pm

I'm Canadian....there are some provinces that don't allow mods and they say that Ontario is considering banning the use of Nitrous.

Alberta (my province) has one of the largest Oil supplies in the world (we have huge deposits of Oil Shale up north).

As such our province doesn't like to do much about emissions stuff since it would piss off all the big oil companies.

This whole emissions thing is a bunch of crap anyways...... forest fires annually put off more CO2 than our cars do in like 10 years (could be an exageration....don't remember what the actual figures are....but it was way more than cars put off )

Given that we stop forest fires as quick as possible there is probably a thousand times less CO2 being put off now than there was 5000 years ago when there was nobody to put out the forest fires (they would run rampant until they ran out of forest or mother nature managed to put them out via cold weather and lots and lots of rain)

Post by **Efratech** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 6:21 pm

Very intresting about the Fuel management/LCD display system

it would be great having "diferent engines specs" in the same car!

BTW Erfinder can u get me a job over there? so i can move to canada! lol

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 10:23 pm

We have lots of "technology" jobs here in Canada (computers/electronics) but the whole imigration thing can be a huge pain......I think work Visa's aren't too hard to get.....not to sure.

What most people don't realize is that we only have decent weather for about four months of the year (typically 80 deg F (26 deg C)) and the seasons change bigtime.

In the middle of summer the sun will get up at 5am and go down around 11pm which is way cool for cruizing the streets in summer.

In the winter the sun comes up about 9am and goes down at 4pm....so that means I drive to work in the dark and come home in the dark....kinda sucks.

And typical temps in the winter are about 0 deg F (-17deg C) with some cold days down to -22 deg F (-30 deg C)

Typically people from warm climates freeze their buts off.... I'm somewhat climatized because I've lived here all my life.

Still want to come

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Sun Oct 12, 2003 10:39 pm

fuel management is not as hard as everyone thinks... it's really not that hard to measure the O2 sensor data via a analog to digital converter and change the pulse width of the injectors to make it read the correct voltage.

Honestly I can say that I could do this with a $5.00 PIC microcontroller.

You might say....why are all the FMU's so expensive???

Three words............Fair Market Value

They make them expensive because that's the going rate.....if someone came out with one for say $300 everyone would drop their prices to try to compete.

I once priced out all the components in a 300WRMS Phoenix Gold Amplifier....and guess what.... the cost of all the components were less than $50 !!!!!

V-MOS and D-MOS transistors are cheap....the circuit board costs more than all the power transistors put together.