Injector probs!

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 11:31 am

no idea... sorry

MMamdouh

Turtle_Wax · Post by **Turtle_Wax** » Sun Aug 26, 2007 7:35 pm

Well I managed to remove the O2 and took some pics below. Anyone know from the pics if this sensor looks ok or not? The flash makes the tip look lighter than it actually is and one side of the sensor tip is darker than the other side. While it was out I used a blow torch and measured the voltage. It quickly reaches about 0.8v with heat applied and very quickly drops to 0 when removed. After refitting the sensor and connected the wire I gave it another try and the car ran shit again and lacked power, but unplug the sensor and a big improvement.

Spider · Post by **Spider** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 12:20 am

Code ?
Connected or disconnected 02 sensor, is the CEL going on at any time, ?...

I can't but maybe someone that knows would/could explain why a engine would run fine with the 02 sensor disconnected and than run rough when it's connected ?

It's mind boggling for me ! (seems like the computer is getting "some message":roll: , huh ?

P.S. Nice photo's !

Turtle_Wax · Post by **Turtle_Wax** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 9:56 am

There's no CEL when O2 is connected (but runs really crap and down on power). When disconnected the CEL comes on after the engine is up to normal temp and you start to push hard on the throttle. I checked for any error codes. My Lanos has the 12pin ALDL connector and using the paperclip method it flashes code 13 which is "Oxygen sensor signal problem or loss". But that's no surprise really if it's been disconnected.

Given it's mileage and age it won't go a miss fitting a new sensor so I'll order a new one and see what that does.

Turtle_Wax · Post by **Turtle_Wax** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 11:29 am

Something's just occurred to me

When I had my injectors serviced they also replaced the rubber O-rings. Now when I fitted the injectors there didn't seem to be much resistance when pushing the bottom of the injectors into the engine intake. Now when my mechanic friend gave me another set of injectors to try, the bottom O-rings were missing (they were probably left inside the inlet from the car it was pulled from) so I replaced them with the O-rings from my newly serviced injectors.

These injectors also slotted into the bottom inlet holes very easy without much effort and I'm now wondering if it's possible the O-rings may not have been the correct size and is sucking in air passed the seals causing running problems when the engine goes into closed loop? However there is no fuel leaks and I also checked for any air leaks by spraying injection cleaner all around the inlet seals and injectors and there was no change in engine sound. This car is starting to drive me nuts!!!

Turtle_Wax · Post by **Turtle_Wax** » Mon Aug 27, 2007 5:03 pm

Ignore my last ramblings!
I took the injectors off again and replaced the bottom brown O-rings with slightly bigger ones for a better seal and it still ran crap when the O2 was connected (lacked responsive power and idled rough). As there's a big improvement when I pull the O2 I can only think it's a bad sensor sending wrong info to the ecu. Will get a new one ordered and let you know what happens.

Turtle_Wax · Post by **Turtle_Wax** » Fri Aug 31, 2007 1:36 pm

Right, I've now fitted a new O2 (if anyone here from UK I can definitely recommend www.sparkplugsrus.com)
It would appear that the problem was not the O2 although it did seem to run a bit better but still lacked power, juddered and rough idle. Getting a bit pissed off I put on my coat of big pockets and headed for the local breakers. Luckily a lanos was there, rear end accident damage so at least I knew the engine parts should be ok. I managed to strip some sensors and the results are as follows:

Replaced the TPS & ISCV made no difference!
Replaced the air intake & MAP sensor and the baby now runs absolutely perfect like a dream

Now I don't know if it was the AIT or MAP that was faulty as I replaced them both together at the same time but the car now runs brilliant with loads more response to the pedal. The engine sounds better, it pulls better with no judder and I can now change up the gears sooner while still maintaining good torque.

What does puzzle me though is the car ran great before I had my original injectors cleaned but why should that have caused a fault in either the AIT or MAP sensor? Still, it's all sorted now and finally running great again so I'm happy

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Sun Sep 09, 2007 1:54 pm

just to cut all speculations and confusion... i have managed to get the P/N of the BOSCH injectors i got for my new woo to help you all getting them for your cars:

P/N: 280150715

MMamdouh

Turtle_Wax · Post by **Turtle_Wax** » Mon Sep 10, 2007 6:12 pm

MMamdouh wrote:just to cut all speculations and confusion... i have managed to get the P/N of the BOSCH injectors i got for my new woo to help you all getting them for your cars:

P/N: 280150715

MMamdouh

Thanks, it's worth knowing for future reference.