Maybe your oil is diluted or the wrong viscosity ? - 5w 30
Maybe your idle speed is set below 825 RPM (at idle) ?-hovers between 815 and 850
Maybe your oil pump is worn or dirty ?-Dont know, how do you check?
Maybe your oil filter is plugged up ?-Brand new, it better not be. Will be changing oil next week.
Maybe the oil pickup screen is loose or plugged ? -I really dont want to have to drop the oil pan.
Maybe the oil pickup tube has holes in it?-Again^
Maybe your crankshaft and or bearing clearances are greater than specified values?-No idea, think I need a mechanic for that one.
Maybe an oil gallery plug is missing or installed improperly ? Might be too obvious and Im overthinking it, where is that?
Maybe a camshaft is (worn) out of spec's. ? I hope to god its not. Although it is more the reason to get aftermarkets or regrinds.
Maybe the next time you race "another Aveo" you will get an expensive ticket that gets you arrested and your car impounded ?-Definetly is that risk there.
Maybe ?-Possibly.
I do and I dont want a oil pressure guage in my car, I dont want to keep installing guages into my car because I feel it takes away from the "clean-ness" of the interior. Unless I install it under the hood, then when I want readings, pull guage into car...-naw. But I also dont want my car to "blow up."
Oil pressure light
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Re: Maybe
Spider wrote:I wouldn't assume all is good yet..keep worryingmikedudley17 wrote:No, the turbo is not on the car. Everything has been reverted back to stock. Sensor in stock location. No oil ines hooked up. It was a T3/4 turbo.
Drove car home last night, no light. I even raced another Aveo and took it up over 100, it was risky but worth it.
Drove car to work this morning, no light.
Do I keep worrying about it, or just let it go and assume all is good? I scanned it with my AutoXray OBDII scanner to see if there were any pending codes or anything, and there was nothing, so thats good anyway. I cant really do anything to it right now as I have these double shifts all week-sux! All I can do is keep watching it carefully and hope that someone can come up with an answer for me as I am broke and cant go to a mechanic. Someone on Aveoclub mentioned it could possibly be bad seals on the oil pump??? But I am not leaking any oil anywhere so I dont think it is.
OBD II scanner won't tell you anything about engine oil pressure.
oil pump is a possibility (see "Maybe's" below.)
Hi Mike,
Seems like your basing everything on "light or no light" ?
Lots of suggestions have been made. And I don't think anyone could "come up with an answer" for you based light or no light.
Have you changed your oil and filter yet?
I see you have a new ?
I see you have a new oil pressure switch.
How about the oil pressure gauge ? does your car have on in the instrument cluster. or just a picture of an oil can?
That problem you had (with the engine running and shooting oil out of the open pressure gauge orifice?)
Tells me that if you had to add a total of 3 quarts to get back up to the dipstick "full" mark.
And that means you were operating with about only one quart of oil for a little while.. crank and rod bearings were probably not very happy about that. This also tells us that your oil pump was working at that time.
Lots of "maybe's
Maybe your oil is diluted or the wrong viscosity ?
Maybe your idle speed is set below 825 RPM (at idle) ?
Maybe your oil pump is worn or dirty ?
Maybe your oil filter is plugged up ?
Maybe the oil pickup screen is loose or plugged ?
Maybe the oil pickup tube has holes in it?
Maybe your crankshaft and or bearing clearances are greater than specified values?
Maybe an oil gallery plug is missing or installed improperly ?
Maybe a camshaft is (worn) out of spec's. ?
Maybe the next time you race "another Aveo" you will get an expensive ticket that gets you arrested and your car impounded ?
Maybe ?
Spider
P.S. As I poster earlier ? Only a mechanical oil pressure gauge will tell you what is or isn't happening with your engines oil pressure.
________________________________________________________________________________
Post Re: Maybe
Maybe your oil is diluted or the wrong viscosity ? - 5w 30
Maybe your idle speed is set below 825 RPM (at idle) ?-hovers between 815 and 850
Maybe your oil pump is worn or dirty ?-Dont know, how do you check?
Maybe your oil filter is plugged up ?-Brand new, it better not be. Will be changing oil next week.
Maybe the oil pickup screen is loose or plugged ? -I really dont want to have to drop the oil pan.
Maybe the oil pickup tube has holes in it?-Again^
Maybe your crankshaft and or bearing clearances are greater than specified values?-No idea, think I need a mechanic for that one.
Maybe an oil gallery plug is missing or installed improperly ? Might be too obvious and Im overthinking it, where is that?
Maybe a camshaft is (worn) out of spec's. ? I hope to god its not. Although it is more the reason to get aftermarkets or regrinds.
Maybe the next time you race "another Aveo" you will get an expensive ticket that gets you arrested and your car impounded ?-Definetly is that risk there.
Maybe ?-Possibly.
I do and I dont want a oil pressure guage in my car, I dont want to keep installing guages into my car because I feel it takes away from the "clean-ness" of the interior. Unless I install it under the hood, then when I want readings, pull guage into car...-naw. But I also dont want my car to "blow up"
_____________________________________________________________________
Hi Mike (again)
I was editing my post as you were replying.. Please read the first part again regarding the "one quart of oil"
Now for some follow-ups:
------------------------------------
"I do not want a oil pressure gauge in my car................."
An oil pressure gauge as used for a TEST ONLY ( does not need to be installed permanently) is the only way to verify your actual "TRUE" oil pressure.
------------------------------------------
-------------------------------------------------
"Maybe your oil pump is worn or dirty ?-Dont know, how do you check?"
If I were checking my oil pump? I would first want to know the actual oil pressure.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------
Maybe an oil gallery plug is missing or installed improperly ? Might be too obvious and Im overthinking it, where is that?"
Anyplace a small (dime sized) plug is in the crankcase (see Factory Service Manual and maybe others in here will help with this question too)
Also? the pressure sender is in one.
-------------------------------------------------------
good luck !
Last edited by Spider on Tue Jun 10, 2008 7:40 pm, edited 1 time in total.
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
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- Super
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Gah-dam!
I hope I didnt fuck my car. So, in the case that it possibly maybe a crank or rod bearing is this a fairly simple fix, like an average joe could do it, or is it beyond me? (Please do not take into acct my stupidity for running car like I did ) Or I suppose if I have to ask, maybe I shouldnt mess with it. Also, the car ran for only seconds, Id be suprised if it ran over 8-10 seconds with the sensor out... Take it how you will.
I hope I didnt fuck my car. So, in the case that it possibly maybe a crank or rod bearing is this a fairly simple fix, like an average joe could do it, or is it beyond me? (Please do not take into acct my stupidity for running car like I did ) Or I suppose if I have to ask, maybe I shouldnt mess with it. Also, the car ran for only seconds, Id be suprised if it ran over 8-10 seconds with the sensor out... Take it how you will.
Not saying that what happened but a bearing can be spun in less than 5 seconds.mikedudley17 wrote:Gah-dam!
I hope I didnt fu*k my car. So, in the case that it possibly maybe a crank or rod bearing is this a fairly simple fix, like an average joe could do it, or is it beyond me? (Please do not take into acct my stupidity for running car like I did ) Or I suppose if I have to ask, maybe I shouldnt mess with it. Also, the car ran for only seconds, Id be suprised if it ran over 8-10 seconds with the sensor out... Take it how you will.
It's your call but before you "fix-it" you have to know what "IT" is
Unless you have a new or very low mileage car? I personally think SAE 5w-30 is too thin for summer use.
Besides 5w-30 ? SAE 10w-30 (API SJ) grade is also recommended for the Daewoo 1.6 DOHC engine.
I've got almost 100k miles on mine and I use oil heaver than that in the summer.. Shell Rotilla (brand) 15w-40 (non synthetic) works good for me.
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
- BosnianLanos
- Expert
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- Location: Clearwater, Florida
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If the bearings are spun, I wouldn't consider that an "everyday" job, you'd most likely need to see a mechanic. Do I think they're shot? No. Is it possible? Yes.
Did you put ANY additives into your oil. And I mean ANY. If anything but oil has gone into the crankcase, there may have been some sort of strange reaction that caused particles to solidify clogging or ruining your oil pump. I've seen a guy on a Miata forum put head gasket sealer into the crankcase rather than the radiator and it seized his motor from the oil starvation.
Go on Glowshift.com, buy their CHEAPEST oil gauge kit (gauge w/sender and sandwich adapter), install it loose, and run it in your car for a couple of weeks. That way you can accurately diagnose the oil issue.
Don't worry if it is a faulty pump. They only cost $80 new and are not too terribly difficult to swap out. It's definitely less than the several thousand it would cost to replace the engine.
And my final thoughts...I'm not trying to be mean, as you seem like a really nice guy eager to learn, but a turbo (especially a one-off) is a tough build. I consider myself a fairly apt mechanic, but I don't think I'd try to tackle a turbo project alone. Sometimes it's better save up a couple of grand and have the parts professionally installed. That way you can ensure quality and reliability, and many shops stand behind their work. It might be a good investment.
Did you put ANY additives into your oil. And I mean ANY. If anything but oil has gone into the crankcase, there may have been some sort of strange reaction that caused particles to solidify clogging or ruining your oil pump. I've seen a guy on a Miata forum put head gasket sealer into the crankcase rather than the radiator and it seized his motor from the oil starvation.
Go on Glowshift.com, buy their CHEAPEST oil gauge kit (gauge w/sender and sandwich adapter), install it loose, and run it in your car for a couple of weeks. That way you can accurately diagnose the oil issue.
Don't worry if it is a faulty pump. They only cost $80 new and are not too terribly difficult to swap out. It's definitely less than the several thousand it would cost to replace the engine.
And my final thoughts...I'm not trying to be mean, as you seem like a really nice guy eager to learn, but a turbo (especially a one-off) is a tough build. I consider myself a fairly apt mechanic, but I don't think I'd try to tackle a turbo project alone. Sometimes it's better save up a couple of grand and have the parts professionally installed. That way you can ensure quality and reliability, and many shops stand behind their work. It might be a good investment.
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- Super
- Posts: 251
- Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:18 pm
The only additives I have ever added to the crankcase is Seafoam and I did that 1 day before I changed my oil. I guess if everyone keeps saying you need to buy a oil pressure guage, then I guess Id better listen. As for your last statement, dont worry, I take no offense and totally know what your saying. Hence why I am having my friend who has worked on cars most of his life and went to UTI helping me with the kit. Theres no way in hell I could do this alone. I only know basic things about motors as you can probably tell. The trouble is, is that he is about 500 miles away. He happened to travel to my house one weekend to help out which was much appreciated.BosnianLanos wrote:If the bearings are spun, I wouldn't consider that an "everyday" job, you'd most likely need to see a mechanic. Do I think they're shot? No. Is it possible? Yes.
Did you put ANY additives into your oil. And I mean ANY. If anything but oil has gone into the crankcase, there may have been some sort of strange reaction that caused particles to solidify clogging or ruining your oil pump. I've seen a guy on a Miata forum put head gasket sealer into the crankcase rather than the radiator and it seized his motor from the oil starvation.
Go on Glowshift.com, buy their CHEAPEST oil gauge kit (gauge w/sender and sandwich adapter), install it loose, and run it in your car for a couple of weeks. That way you can accurately diagnose the oil issue.
Don't worry if it is a faulty pump. They only cost $80 new and are not too terribly difficult to swap out. It's definitely less than the several thousand it would cost to replace the engine.
And my final thoughts...I'm not trying to be mean, as you seem like a really nice guy eager to learn, but a turbo (especially a one-off) is a tough build. I consider myself a fairly apt mechanic, but I don't think I'd try to tackle a turbo project alone. Sometimes it's better save up a couple of grand and have the parts professionally installed. That way you can ensure quality and reliability, and many shops stand behind their work. It might be a good investment.
SPIDER--
I was told to use 5w 30 becuase it was supposed to yield better gas mileage for our 1.6s. So thats what I have been doing. Been doing it since the first oil change. But since I am going to change the oil next week, I will take your advice and give it a shot, hell it cant really hurt things much more. Got to start with the basics.
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- Super
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- Joined: Sat Nov 10, 2007 2:18 pm
Ok, so, I havent had gobs of time like i thought i would this week so I havent been able to get anything done, but, its been running good, no hesitations on starts, no weird sounds, oil light only came on once but then went off again after a few seconds. So im hoping it holds til i get some time, looks like it will and is doing favorable so, cross your fingers for me!