Is this a replacement to the ECU??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... N%3AMT%3A1
ECU Performance upgrade??
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TheGreatAndPowerfulOz
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No, simply because you have to connect it to your Battery Positive Pole and the Blue Wire to a Ground. That is all, no other connections... as you know ECU has a bunch of wires connected to it (3 big branches). Here you only have 2 wires.
From what I got out of it, it works similarly to Ground Wires... nothing special.
From what I got out of it, it works similarly to Ground Wires... nothing special.
Well, actually they do work pretty well. Let me explain how we found out.
Another forum member (AerioStyle.com) had found a guy in Japan who took one of those expensive $300+ units that does the same thing and found out it was just a bunch of resistors. So he reversed engineered it and made his own. Went to the dyno and got exactly the same results for only a few bucks. Saved him close to $280!
Anyway, the forum member I mentioned was able to translate the page (reading it, not bablefish), and read his uploaded graphs. (Speaks Japanese) And made one himself. Then he told the rest of us his findings.... well we all were impressed and practically forced him to make them for all of us. Which basically brings me to my point. He kinda turned this little project into a side business.
Well, he needed a venue to sell them, and well, I already make stuff for "underdog" cars lacking in the aftermarket, so I offered him webspace on my site as if it was part of my growing inventory of cool stuff that works.
But we all agreed that the prices of these things were stupidly high for what they were. So he was able to build them in a nice little case for around $38 for the plastic case, and $45 for a cool looking aluminum case. I did all the marketing for him and now he makes around $10-11 each one. So not a huge profit margin, but enough to keep him happy enough to continue his little venture.
In a nut shell, when connected they do smooth out the idle, and we were able to actually test with a voltmeter how much your cars voltage drops when you floor it... with the voltage stabilizer installed the voltage only dropped like .1 to .2 on testing. So we know it does something. I've noted a gain of 2 - 4 mpg on a given fuel up, nothing spectacular, but again... a noted result.
I've gone into greater detail on my site about all of the stuff it can do/or has done... but the bottom line is, his price is fair and it does do "something" Even if you get the cheapy one, it's not a lost cause and you won't kick youself in on how much you spent for some "Tuner Magazine" hyped up product.
http://www.DeckerPerformance.com Look for the VS3. (Sorry, but I don't know why the direct link /VoltageStabilizer.html is not working, let me fix that)
Another forum member (AerioStyle.com) had found a guy in Japan who took one of those expensive $300+ units that does the same thing and found out it was just a bunch of resistors. So he reversed engineered it and made his own. Went to the dyno and got exactly the same results for only a few bucks. Saved him close to $280!
Anyway, the forum member I mentioned was able to translate the page (reading it, not bablefish), and read his uploaded graphs. (Speaks Japanese) And made one himself. Then he told the rest of us his findings.... well we all were impressed and practically forced him to make them for all of us. Which basically brings me to my point. He kinda turned this little project into a side business.
Well, he needed a venue to sell them, and well, I already make stuff for "underdog" cars lacking in the aftermarket, so I offered him webspace on my site as if it was part of my growing inventory of cool stuff that works.
But we all agreed that the prices of these things were stupidly high for what they were. So he was able to build them in a nice little case for around $38 for the plastic case, and $45 for a cool looking aluminum case. I did all the marketing for him and now he makes around $10-11 each one. So not a huge profit margin, but enough to keep him happy enough to continue his little venture.
In a nut shell, when connected they do smooth out the idle, and we were able to actually test with a voltmeter how much your cars voltage drops when you floor it... with the voltage stabilizer installed the voltage only dropped like .1 to .2 on testing. So we know it does something. I've noted a gain of 2 - 4 mpg on a given fuel up, nothing spectacular, but again... a noted result.
I've gone into greater detail on my site about all of the stuff it can do/or has done... but the bottom line is, his price is fair and it does do "something" Even if you get the cheapy one, it's not a lost cause and you won't kick youself in on how much you spent for some "Tuner Magazine" hyped up product.
http://www.DeckerPerformance.com Look for the VS3. (Sorry, but I don't know why the direct link /VoltageStabilizer.html is not working, let me fix that)
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TheGreatAndPowerfulOz
- All Powerful
- Posts: 2767
- Joined: Thu May 01, 2003 10:37 pm
- Location: Virginia, USA
- Contact:
Replacing the stock power cable from the alternator to the battery positive with heavier guage cable, such as 4ga or 2ga, with soldered on gold ring terminals, and also replacing the stock ground cables from the battery negative to the body and the body to the engine block stablize the car's electrical system and greatly reduce the amount of voltage drop when accellerating hard (or playing bass heavy musuic with a heavy amperage drawing amplifier) because of less resistance for the entire electrical system.
This requires no resistors, no boxes and, if using 1200 strand 4ga welding cable, costs a total of less than $15 for all parts needed.
Also changing from a stock lead-acid battery to a sealed battery, such as an SVR or an Optima also greatly reduces the fluctuations in voltage.
I am still not sure how a box of components (including resistors as you mentioned) connected between the battery & body can result in everything it claims.
Cliff
Oh yeah, Hi Mr. Bill!
LOL
(how many of you actually know who that is, and actually saw him on Saturday Night Live in the mid 1970's?)
This requires no resistors, no boxes and, if using 1200 strand 4ga welding cable, costs a total of less than $15 for all parts needed.
Also changing from a stock lead-acid battery to a sealed battery, such as an SVR or an Optima also greatly reduces the fluctuations in voltage.
I am still not sure how a box of components (including resistors as you mentioned) connected between the battery & body can result in everything it claims.
Cliff
Oh yeah, Hi Mr. Bill!
LOL
(how many of you actually know who that is, and actually saw him on Saturday Night Live in the mid 1970's?)
Well, this was a lengthy discussion on our old, (now defunct forum) with many people spanning 10 pages. Experts in nearly every electronic dicipline all had their say in this. (Mainly the discussion was about ground wires) Eventually, we started talking about Voltage Stabilizers and how nothing about them made any sense, yet actual results were coming in from all sides.
In any event it boiled down to two camps... the old "fuddy duddies" who refused to believe that a couple of cheap resistors wired in parallel could do anything worth noting, and those who were younger, and more easily influenced by marketing and tuner magazines.
Either way I stayed out of it, as my electrical knowledge is limited to flicking a switch, and I've never switched off circuit brakers when installing new recepticles... yeah, moron, but hey, as long as I didn't ever get shocked right?
Anyway, I just saw a market potential and knew they'd sell if they were reasonably priced, and looked cool! *kicks self for not arranging profit sharing for hosting product*
The stupid thing works to some extent, and that's all that matters I suppose. But it really angers me to see those schiesters at e-bay ripping people off with their "one size fits all" crap, and they've never tested anything, nor even looked under the hood of the car they claim their crap fits.
Oh, and btw... go ahead and save yourself a few cents on those "Gold" connectors. They are "electro plated" and not even out of a carat rated gold either... only mircons thick and only for show. but you're right, all modern cars need better grounding, and even with backyard, homegrown ideas, you can achieve measurble results... often times they don't look as pretty, but most cheap people on a budget don't care.
Oh, and yeah... I legally changed my first name to Mr.Bill
In any event it boiled down to two camps... the old "fuddy duddies" who refused to believe that a couple of cheap resistors wired in parallel could do anything worth noting, and those who were younger, and more easily influenced by marketing and tuner magazines.
Either way I stayed out of it, as my electrical knowledge is limited to flicking a switch, and I've never switched off circuit brakers when installing new recepticles... yeah, moron, but hey, as long as I didn't ever get shocked right?
Anyway, I just saw a market potential and knew they'd sell if they were reasonably priced, and looked cool! *kicks self for not arranging profit sharing for hosting product*
The stupid thing works to some extent, and that's all that matters I suppose. But it really angers me to see those schiesters at e-bay ripping people off with their "one size fits all" crap, and they've never tested anything, nor even looked under the hood of the car they claim their crap fits.
Oh, and btw... go ahead and save yourself a few cents on those "Gold" connectors. They are "electro plated" and not even out of a carat rated gold either... only mircons thick and only for show. but you're right, all modern cars need better grounding, and even with backyard, homegrown ideas, you can achieve measurble results... often times they don't look as pretty, but most cheap people on a budget don't care.
Oh, and yeah... I legally changed my first name to Mr.Bill
Mr. Bill
How are my Suzuki Aerio brothers doing over there at the new forum? I used to lounge around the old one, went back a couple of weeks ago to find it was gone. Man I would really like it if we could combine forces and up the brand recognition. I'm kinda frustrated with Suzuki's lack of aftermarket integration. How about you?
How are my Suzuki Aerio brothers doing over there at the new forum? I used to lounge around the old one, went back a couple of weeks ago to find it was gone. Man I would really like it if we could combine forces and up the brand recognition. I'm kinda frustrated with Suzuki's lack of aftermarket integration. How about you?
The new forum kicks all kinds of arse! But it kinda sucks that we don't have the numbers anymore... we lost about 2500 members when the old one unexpectedly shut down. All of our posts, our vital information... but the new forum is growing again, and seems to be more cohesive group of people.
Yeah, I hear ya on the lack of support. Which of course, is why I stepped up to the plate. I've been toying with the idea of adding Daewoo stuff to my line up... since Suzuki carries two of them now!
Coincidentally, the reason I'm lurking over here, is that I helped my Sister-In-Law buy a 2000 Lanos, and I just what to get as much info on the car as possible in the event something comes up! 
Yeah, I hear ya on the lack of support. Which of course, is why I stepped up to the plate. I've been toying with the idea of adding Daewoo stuff to my line up... since Suzuki carries two of them now!
Coincidentally, the reason I'm lurking over here, is that I helped my Sister-In-Law buy a 2000 Lanos, and I just what to get as much info on the car as possible in the event something comes up! Please do add Daewoo stuff to the line upI've been toying with the idea of adding Daewoo stuff to my line up... since Suzuki carries two of them now!
Don't forget the Reno which is coming out this month which will be the third Daewoo in the Suzuki Line-up. Oh yeah and the Chevy Aveo which is the Daewoo Kalos. If you need any measurements or specs on the Forenza let me know. I have been talking to my dealer about contacting the customers to see who is interested in having get togethers at the dealership and trying to pump up the brand. The manager said he will consider it and get back with me....so hopefully this attempt goes well.Anybody want to send me a common size crank pulley? I'll machine them out of some nice soild billet 6061T, and have them Hard Anodized. <-- this is probably the most important step, and makes the pulley harder than the parent material.
We can go either two ways here, a lighter weight OEM sized pulley or an Underdrive pulley. They both will give you nearly similar results, since most of the benefits are from the actual loss of rotational mass. The U/D version will slow down your accessories and need a new belt included.
This is a preproduction pulley for another car, but basically the concept is the same, just gotta make to the same specs as your guys' cars. Oh, and they ship Black only. They'd probably be around $75 or so depending on design. I don't really know what your guys' pulley looks like, but I'm bettin' it's a simple design.
Is your engine internally balanced?
We can go either two ways here, a lighter weight OEM sized pulley or an Underdrive pulley. They both will give you nearly similar results, since most of the benefits are from the actual loss of rotational mass. The U/D version will slow down your accessories and need a new belt included.
This is a preproduction pulley for another car, but basically the concept is the same, just gotta make to the same specs as your guys' cars. Oh, and they ship Black only. They'd probably be around $75 or so depending on design. I don't really know what your guys' pulley looks like, but I'm bettin' it's a simple design.
Is your engine internally balanced?
And this will help the ECU how?? LOL your off topic
Mr.Bill wrote:Anybody want to send me a common size crank pulley? I'll machine them out of some nice soild billet 6061T, and have them Hard Anodized. <-- this is probably the most important step, and makes the pulley harder than the parent material.
We can go either two ways here, a lighter weight OEM sized pulley or an Underdrive pulley. They both will give you nearly similar results, since most of the benefits are from the actual loss of rotational mass. The U/D version will slow down your accessories and need a new belt included.
This is a preproduction pulley for another car, but basically the concept is the same, just gotta make to the same specs as your guys' cars. Oh, and they ship Black only. They'd probably be around $75 or so depending on design. I don't really know what your guys' pulley looks like, but I'm bettin' it's a simple design.
Is your engine internally balanced?
Opps, sorry... I didn't think you guys were anal topic watchers in here! (with the low post count and all, I didn't think keeping the conversation flowing, like they do in real life, would have been all that bad) 
You oughta come over to our board... where if the topic does not stray or get hijacked then you aren't applying yourself.
*opps, I'm not an admin here, I automatically went to move the topic to a new thread... I suppose if it needs to, a mod or somebody will move it.*
You oughta come over to our board... where if the topic does not stray or get hijacked then you aren't applying yourself.
*opps, I'm not an admin here, I automatically went to move the topic to a new thread...
I suppose if it needs to, a mod or somebody will move it.*