I think I know the answer, but just need some clarrification.
I have a Cielo 97 which I have just rebuilt the engine. But now there is a very steady water flow.
It looks like the leak is coming from one of the retainer bolt holes of the coolant pump.
I have removed all 3 bolts from the front & even 2 bolts that attach to the side of the block near the pump & have attempted to remove the pump but it is solid.
Is there a special twist, tool or trick to removing the pump??
I have even attempted to knock the pump out via the hose hole at the rear of it, but it is solid.
Any help would be brilliant.
Cheers!!
Removal of the coolant pump!
Moderators: daewoomofo, Moderators Group
Hey Frplymstr,
We don't have them here but........
I think a Clieo is a Daewoo ?
SOHC or DOHC engine. They both have basically the same water/coolant pump procedure.
The "book" says you need a special tool to rotate the pump but you don't.
I used thin "channel lock" pliers on mine. Some people call them "water-pump" pliers.
Anyway, the water/coolant pump is also the way you tension the timing belt. It all works together for engine timing.
If your existing timing belt has been on for 50k (plus) miles you should change it now as well. Along with the tensioner pulley.
When you rotate the pump you do it (from the right* side of the engine) not facing the engine.
This will loosen the tension on the timing belt. Than you can remove the pump. This is a procedure you need to study in the factory service manual. It's not hard to do but for me to type it all out is not something I can do.
I hope other water pump and timing belt knowledgeable forum members will add to this.
Cheers back @ ya !
(*right-side as viewed from the drivers seat, no matter which country your driving your car in
)
We don't have them here but........
I think a Clieo is a Daewoo ?
SOHC or DOHC engine. They both have basically the same water/coolant pump procedure.
The "book" says you need a special tool to rotate the pump but you don't.
I used thin "channel lock" pliers on mine. Some people call them "water-pump" pliers.
Anyway, the water/coolant pump is also the way you tension the timing belt. It all works together for engine timing.
If your existing timing belt has been on for 50k (plus) miles you should change it now as well. Along with the tensioner pulley.
When you rotate the pump you do it (from the right* side of the engine) not facing the engine.
This will loosen the tension on the timing belt. Than you can remove the pump. This is a procedure you need to study in the factory service manual. It's not hard to do but for me to type it all out is not something I can do.
I hope other water pump and timing belt knowledgeable forum members will add to this.
Cheers back @ ya !
(*right-side as viewed from the drivers seat, no matter which country your driving your car in
)~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Hey Spider, thanks for the quick reply.
The manual just said to remove the coolant pump retaining bolts & remove the water pump. The pliers you mentioned is news to me.
I've checked out the pliers you mentioned & the coolant pump itself has the shaped connection where I could get an adjustable spanner onto it, a 375mm, but the thing is solid & after a few attempts, even tapping the spanner with a wooden mallet, it still did not budge.
So to get it straight, the coolant pump needs to be turned anti-clockwise to be removed?
If that is the case then a little bit harder tapping may be needed.
I will let you know how it goes.
The manual just said to remove the coolant pump retaining bolts & remove the water pump. The pliers you mentioned is news to me.
I've checked out the pliers you mentioned & the coolant pump itself has the shaped connection where I could get an adjustable spanner onto it, a 375mm, but the thing is solid & after a few attempts, even tapping the spanner with a wooden mallet, it still did not budge.
So to get it straight, the coolant pump needs to be turned anti-clockwise to be removed?
If that is the case then a little bit harder tapping may be needed.
I will let you know how it goes.
EDIT..(found this after posting) check it out.
I have the DOHC Lanos engine which is a little different than the SOHC which has a thermostat right above the coolant pump. It might get in the way. I don't know but it looks easy enough to remove if necessary.
When I did mine? I did a new belt, tensioner pulley and water-pump . I had everything off including the rear timing cover tin. I can't remember but the rear tin may be holding the pump in place. I don't think it is though. But if it is ? You need to remove the tin. You will be able to tell when you get the pump loose.
Remember, the water-pump is also the timing belt tensioner. If that pump goes bad, so goes the belt (and valves)
So,it is an important "key" to the whole picture. Now is the time to replace the timing belt if it isn't new.
After you install your new pump (and there is a procedure for it too) you need to be sure the timing is perfect.
The cam/s and crankshaft marks must line up. You really need the manual for this. If your computer is fast and in good shape? You can download it. I don't know the URL. Maybe other forum members will pass it on to you ?
As for water-pump removal ?.
Do not remove but just loosen the three bolts that hold it on!
As I recall one of those little bolts is different to get at than the others.
Use some WD-40 around where the pump is up to the engine block. Use the tool you have to rotate the pump counter-clockwise.
This will release the tension on the timing belt.
After the tension is off the belt ? Than completely remove the little bolts. The pump should come out. Before you install the new pump? Clean the orifice where the O-ring goes and use a new one with white grease on on it.
Short of mailing you my Daewoo factory service manual ? This is about the best description I can give you. Hopefully someone will add to this.
Keep asking questions though. Only way to get the job done.
And keep us posted.
For edit..go here:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2746
When I did mine? I did a new belt, tensioner pulley and water-pump . I had everything off including the rear timing cover tin. I can't remember but the rear tin may be holding the pump in place. I don't think it is though. But if it is ? You need to remove the tin. You will be able to tell when you get the pump loose.
Remember, the water-pump is also the timing belt tensioner. If that pump goes bad, so goes the belt (and valves)
So,it is an important "key" to the whole picture. Now is the time to replace the timing belt if it isn't new.
After you install your new pump (and there is a procedure for it too) you need to be sure the timing is perfect.
The cam/s and crankshaft marks must line up. You really need the manual for this. If your computer is fast and in good shape? You can download it. I don't know the URL. Maybe other forum members will pass it on to you ?
As for water-pump removal ?.
Do not remove but just loosen the three bolts that hold it on!
As I recall one of those little bolts is different to get at than the others.
Use some WD-40 around where the pump is up to the engine block. Use the tool you have to rotate the pump counter-clockwise.
This will release the tension on the timing belt.
After the tension is off the belt ? Than completely remove the little bolts. The pump should come out. Before you install the new pump? Clean the orifice where the O-ring goes and use a new one with white grease on on it.
Short of mailing you my Daewoo factory service manual ? This is about the best description I can give you. Hopefully someone will add to this.
Keep asking questions though. Only way to get the job done.
And keep us posted.
For edit..go here:
http://www.daewootech.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=2746
~Spider~
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
2000 1.6 DOHC Lanos 'S'
Silver HB.
____________________
"The three great essentials to achieving anything worthwhile are; first, hard work, second, stick-to-it-iveness, and third, common sense."
- -- Thomas Edison
Done!!
Jee Wiliker Radio Active man, that had to be the most stubborn water pump that has ever been!! It was like Stewie Griffin when it was time to be born, it just did not want to come out!!!
In the end I got a 375mm adjustable spanner & belted the bejesus out of it to loosen it.
The thing was coroded solid, so it was obvious were the water issues were.
I picked up a replacement & greased up the new O'ring with rubber grease. The car is running perfect again with no temperature issues.
Well, that about does the entire engine rebuild from the block up. Thanks to all for the advice I needed from my posts + other posts that were relative.
I will be staying in contact with the site so if any other Cielo or Lanos drivers need help, hopefully I can pay it forward!!
Cheers!!
Jee Wiliker Radio Active man, that had to be the most stubborn water pump that has ever been!! It was like Stewie Griffin when it was time to be born, it just did not want to come out!!!
In the end I got a 375mm adjustable spanner & belted the bejesus out of it to loosen it.
The thing was coroded solid, so it was obvious were the water issues were.
I picked up a replacement & greased up the new O'ring with rubber grease. The car is running perfect again with no temperature issues.
Well, that about does the entire engine rebuild from the block up. Thanks to all for the advice I needed from my posts + other posts that were relative.
I will be staying in contact with the site so if any other Cielo or Lanos drivers need help, hopefully I can pay it forward!!
Cheers!!