Please help 2002 daewoo lanos 1.6 at

Boybuboo · Post by **Boybuboo** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:27 am

i have them how the pic shows 1234 still not running

mezomaster · Post by **mezomaster** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 8:55 am

did u make sure that all the fuses are fine?? check the ECM fuse and the injectors fuse

Boybuboo · Post by **Boybuboo** » Sun Jul 08, 2007 9:06 am

fuses was 1 of the first things i checked ive learned its usually the simple things that keep things from working i replaced every fuse and relay in the car

Boybuboo · Post by **Boybuboo** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 2:51 am

well this is what i have come to the conclusion of....i am selling the car problem is i wont get out of it what i have put into it or what i would need out of it....i cannot get it running and i have replaced anything that makes sense as to why it will not continue running after the key is not turned to crank it......if anyone has had the same problem or has anymore ideas before i post it for sale please let me know if not the car is being posted for $1500 usd to cover the head and other parts i have put into the car.

Spider · Post by **Spider** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 6:09 am

Boybuboo wrote:i have them how the pic shows 1234 still not running

I am not understanding you on this. You keep sayin "1,2,3,4"
1,2,3,4 is the order of the cylinders starting at the timing belt end of the engine.
the actual firing order out of the coil pack is: "1,4,2,3"
(viewed looking at the engine from the front of your car, #1 begins at the coil-pack socket that is closest to the firewall, #2 is the next one,
#3 is next and #4 is the socket closest to the radiator.

My Daewoo sat for over a year, I had a lot of fuse problems.. They looked good were not burned out.. BUT ! most of them were corroded on the blades and not making good contact. I had to replace some and the others I cleaned up with my pocket knife. Also used some electronic spray cleaner on the blade sockets and 'dielectric' grease.

I had a no-start problem very similar to yours once on a motorcycle. Everything I tried did not work. I ruined the starter cranking it because the engine would pop and run while being cranked. I worked on this for over a month. Than I finally discovered what it was. This was a 4 cylinder engine and 2 intake valves were were hanging up and not completely closing. When the problem was corrected ? the engine fired up on the first crank-over. I am not saying this is your problem but it is something to think about.

Just my two cents but I think your giving up now is something you may regret later. But of course this is your choice. To each their own.
And I am not you. If this was my problem I would pull the timing belt covers and the crankshaft pulley and re check the alignment marks and make sure everything was "by the book" (factory service manual) I thought the water pump install was a little tricky and spent quite a bit of time doing it on mine. Also getting the timing marks on the cams aligned perfectly was also tricky I needed a couple more hands. I later discovered there is a special "cam holding tool" that is cheap and would have save me a lot of time and effort.

what ever you do good luck !

Boybuboo · Post by **Boybuboo** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 6:40 pm

hey spider thanks for the input the fuses are all brand new i replaced all of them fuse block has no corrosion or gunk in the slots.....the spark plugs are how they are listed in the link provided to me for firing order....as far as the vavles hanging open i honestly do not have the money for a new gasket set to take off the head....as far as the timing goes i had a friend helping me and yes did it by the book and i did it correctly i have even tore it apart and re-did the timing 3 times thinking something was off...as far as the timing belt adjustment tool j42492...everyone says it didnt exist so i just fabricated 1 from a steel sheet to fit on the old water pump and it worked just fine....timing marks are on the tensioner mark is on...i manually rotate the crankshaft until the cam pullys are aligned and the crankshaft is aligned. what is the compression supposed to be on the cylinders? i think if i am having a compression leak i will not be able to fix it for i dont have the money for the gasket set....if something is wrong with the head i do have a warranty on it but again i would need new gaskets :-\

Boybuboo · Post by **Boybuboo** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 8:05 pm

I am not understanding you on this. You keep sayin "1,2,3,4"
1,2,3,4 is the order of the cylinders starting at the timing belt end of the engine.
the actual firing order out of the coil pack is: "1,4,2,3"
(viewed looking at the engine from the front of your car, #1 begins at the coil-pack socket that is closest to the firewall, #2 is the next one,
#3 is next and #4 is the socket closest to the radiator.

ok so im confused now when i re-read this.....on my coil pack going from the firewall to the radiator is listed 1 4 2 3 so it would look like this
1(a)
4(b)
2(c)
3(d)
then the engine going from left to right (from the bumper of the car) is cylinder 1 (by timing belt) 2 then 3 then 4 (by coil pack)

the firing order i have it set up on is cylinder 1 coil (a) cylinder 2 (coil c) cylinder 3 coil (d) cylinder 4 coil (b)

Boybuboo · Post by **Boybuboo** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 9:55 pm

ok thinking here...i checked the camshaft sensor thats fine where exactly is the crankshaft sensor located? and how hard is it to get to

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:06 pm

the crank shaft positioning sensor is located just to the left and above the crank pully. its not hard to get to, you have to take the front passanger side wheel off to get to it easly though. i might be able to get you a pic of where its at lemme look around

daewoomofo · Post by **daewoomofo** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 10:09 pm

here you go, its not the best but it might help

Spider · Post by **Spider** » Mon Jul 09, 2007 11:12 pm

Boybuboo wrote:
I am not understanding you on this. You keep sayin "1,2,3,4"
1,2,3,4 is the order of the cylinders starting at the timing belt end of the engine.
the actual firing order out of the coil pack is: "1,4,2,3"
(viewed looking at the engine from the front of your car, #1 begins at the coil-pack socket that is closest to the firewall, #2 is the next one,
#3 is next and #4 is the socket closest to the radiator.
ok so im confused now when i re-read this.....on my coil pack going from the firewall to the radiator is listed 1 4 2 3 so it would look like this
1(a)
4(b)
2(c)
3(d)
then the engine going from left to right (from the bumper of the car) is cylinder 1 (by timing belt) 2 then 3 then 4 (by coil pack)

the firing order i have it set up on is cylinder 1 coil (a) cylinder 2 (coil c) cylinder 3 coil (d) cylinder 4 coil (b)

------------------------------------------------------------------

Ok, it is confusing and to top that off ? I made a error in the firing order !
I said it is : 1,4,2,3 this is WRONG! sorry, my bad !

The actual firing order is: 1, 3, 4, 2
This is CORRECT and straight from the Daewoo Factory service manual

Now for the engine cylinders...

Stand at the front of your car..look at the timing belt end of your engine... (that will be to your left)
Starting at that end, is the #1 cylinder, next to it is #2...and so on .. so your cylinders are numbered 1,2,3,4

Now for the coil pack sockets...

While your still standing in front of your car.. look at the coil-pack.. it has 4 sockets in it.
The closest one to the firewall is A, next one in line is B..and so on... A,B,C, D
(D being the socket closest to the radiator)

So...
A=cyl #1
B=cyl #3
C=cyl#4
D=cyl#2

------------------------------------------------------------
Three more things,

I hope you used new head bolts. The originals are one-time only stretch bolts.

Have you run a compression test ?
your looking for around 100 psi from all cylinders.

Have you removed one spark plug at a time and grounded it while your helper cranked the engine over ?
Are they firing ?

keep us posted ?

Boybuboo · Post by **Boybuboo** » Tue Jul 10, 2007 12:35 am

ok so the firing order is not the problem no way i change it makes a difference and no other way allows the car to run while the key is turned....i looked at the crankshaft sensor to make sure its completely attached and it is no way i can think of to make sure its good or to figure out whats wrong with the car if anyone lives close by and wants to buy it im selling it for $950 cuz i have had enough of trying to figure out whats wrong with it

man talk about taking a loss

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Tue Jul 10, 2007 7:19 am

guys... whats with the firing order/spark plug wires issue here?

i made the how to specificly to avoid such confusion but still i see so many wrong ideas going arround.

first off... forget about firing order, it is just how the engine works and you got nothing to do about it, in a setuaton like this i consider this peice of info as SPAM. (the correct firing order is 1342 though)

by marking the cylinderrs 1 to 4 from T belt to tranny and marking the coil pack A to D from firewall to radiator (or from top to bottom if you got a 1.3/1.5 SOHC) then the correct assignment is:

A:1
B:4
C:2
D:3

because of our waist spark system you can swap the cables at A & B and swap the cables at C & D... you should have noticed that the coil pack is almost 2 halfs were A & B at one half and C & D are at the other. if for one reason or another you swapped cables from different halfs of the coil the car won't fire as the ignition timing is totally screwed.

the ECU will fire the cylinders in the 1342 firing order we mentioned before and to do that given the above wiring example the ecu will simply fire one half of the coil pack every 180 degrees so:

when cyl. 1 is 10 degrees away from TDC the ecu will fire the A/B half of the coil pack, this will ignight the mixture in cyl. A and kill all fuel remains in exhaust charge at Cyl. 4 when it is almost ending its exhaust stroak.

i know this is soemwhat confusing and this is why i didn't want to dive into it in the how to topic as the next guy that reads the topic surly got enough issues with his ignition wiring and the last thing he needs is extra complications.

to cut it short: stick with the assignment on the how to topic and forget the 1342 peice of info. for the time beeing.

MMamdouh