Sunbird hybrid

N/A tech, Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat backs, Exhaust...etc

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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

Efrain A. wrote:dont u think the lack of power has something to do with the timing?
Possibly.. But it sounds like it's revving, but I'm just not going anywhere too fast. Might be timing....
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PrecisionBoost
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Post by PrecisionBoost »

I don't think timing will be bad.... but it could very well be a problem with the ignition system.

Are you using the Sunbird ECU to fire the Daewoo Coil pack? Or did you install the sunbird ignition coils?

That may be a huge issue since I would bet that the two have different signal requirements. ( hard to explain this.... just trust me.... there is a circuit board built into the Daewoo Coil packs.... which is somewhat unique )

If I were you..... I would install the Sunbird ignition coils and double check to make sure that the spark plugs go to the correct location.

I'm somewhat unfamiliar with the MPFI Sunbird without the distributor..... does it have two ignition coils like the Daewoo engine?
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

well.. I wish this was the solution, but I am already using the sunbird coils. should I try the daewoo ones?
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PrecisionBoost
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Post by PrecisionBoost »

No....you may damage your ECU and or the coils.... I'm pretty sure the Sunbird coils are a pull down firing circuit where as the Daewoo ones are a pull up to fire circuit.

That's why I had to make a small circuit board to make the MSD systems work with the Daewoo ignition.

I still think the idle problem is an IAC problem.

If you remove the IAC completely does the engine start up and rev up to redline within a couple seconds??

If everything is ok with the engine management the air bypassing the throttle plate will be enough to make it go to redline.

So.... if it does go to redline or atleast very high RPM then it's defnitly an issue with controlling the IAC

You could take out the IAC and move the pintle back about 1/8" and then reinstal it......that should at the very least get it idling.

If it idles low.... take the IAC out again and move it back another 1/8" and try again

If the idle is too high move it back outwards slightly in 1/16" or 1/8" increments.

Oh...... do this without the electrical plugs attached..... the IAC pintle will stay at this position and allow your car to idle.

Personally..... I would set the idle to 2500 RPM when cold.... that way when it warms up the car will idle closer to 1000 RPM.

It's a temporary solution... but it should make it driveable until I manage to figure out the IAC coil pairing on the Daewoo engine.

Chris
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PrecisionBoost
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Post by PrecisionBoost »

Looks like the IAC stepper motor on the Nubira is the same as it is with the sunbird.....

Light green/black and light green/white are one pair of wires for one coil on the stepper motor
Ligth blue/black and light blue/white are the other pair of wires for the other coil on the stepper motor

So in theory you probably allready hooked it up correctly.... so the sunbird ECU should be able to control the IAC

Of course there are a dozen other problems would could allow the engine to die at idle.... but this is the first thing to check.

Unfortunatly if it's not the IAC or the "minimum idle speed screw" position then it's a problem with the ECU/sensors

It could be as simple as different voltages between the Sunbird and Nubira sensors

One good example is the TPS ( throttle position sensor) if your Nubira sensor is indicating closed via a particular voltage this could equal 5% opening on the old Sunbird sensor.

So.... basicly the engine might think that you've got the throttle open when you really don't ( which would cause low speed idle problems )

I could suggest a couple dozen things if I were there working on the car with you.... but I'm not.... so it's hard to help.
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

Thank you for this help so far Chris!

Well.. Right now it does idle. But I think it only idles because of the position of the screw. If I rev the car, it revs and stays there for a few seconds and then comes back down; so I guess that's the IAC problem? It also dies after 10 seconds of being in gear; reverse or drive.

I also remember looking at my monitor and when the car was idling, the "IAC desire" was at 0. "0" means closed, right? If so, then yes, that is the problem; most likely. I believe my dad is going to try and get a thing from one of his GM buddies called a "tech 1"; which is capable of tuning IAC position.

Do you think I should see if the TPS from the sunbird will fit on the Daewoo motor?

Do you know the stock duration of the daewoo motor's cams? Is 260* a big increase from stock? The VE tables in the ECM are a definite possibility.

The thing I'm mostly concerned with is that it doesn't feel like it has a lot of power when driving it.. It might be that the transmission kick down cable is the one from the sunbird and it has to be adjusted.. But, the problem is, we did adjust it a bit, but to adjust it we have to bend the metal bracket that it mounts to on the throttlebody to the right. I'm hoping it's just trans issue and not that the engine isn't making power much at all. I got it up to around 70 mph, but it didn't feel like it had much more than that.. Before we do anything else, we have to get the mysterious oil leak fixed. I can't even start it right now, because the front of the engine is disassembled again. :(
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

Another video.. Maybe someone can say something about what is seen on the monitor there?

Sorry about the sound, it actually sounds pretty good with the exhaust.


Once again, turn your volume up..


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Post by Dillon »

Idk it dose kinda sound like your timing is off a little. Mine did that cause i was screming with pullys and i had the timing adjusted and it was better.
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

Application Power Band Cam Lift(mm) Valve Lift(mm) Duration Timing Full Lift VC (mm) LTDC
Sports Injection 1500-6500 10.08 10.08 260 Deg 20/60 60/20 I 110 Deg E 110 Deg 0.00 I 1.22mm E 1.22mm


Does anyone know what the timing part means? "20/60 60/20"
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

It seems to be running a lot better now. I think it's also a lot cooler under the hood now, it was most likely burning lean before.

Re-routed the MAP straight to the manifold, found that the fuel pressure regulator's vacuum line port on the manifold was clogged with black crap, fixed the throttle valve cable for the transmission, and re-gapped the sparkplug that had a VERY SMALL GAP. Now.. All I have to do is drive it and see how that goes and get a radiator cap.. (bottle pressure cap)
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

hmmm.. now Im thinking I should use the daewoo injectors. I dont know.. Im kind of lost, if anyone can give me anymore help, it will be much appreciated.

BLM is around 105 at idle..
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Post by GsiTurbo »

I still think there might be a problem with your ignition and timing. DOHC was design to run the injectors off the reluctor wheel (same as in the sunbird), but then it uses camshaft sensor to set the ignition in fully sequential style. Sunbird, on the other hand, uses multiport firing in pairs. It would be nice to check the timing with the OBD scanner, or timing lamp (trouble is, there is no scale on the pulley)
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

you think the timing could be the problem with the power loss? I think it might not be getting enough fuel or something..
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decyphex
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Post by decyphex »

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Definitely come a long way.. LOL



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GsiTurbo
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Post by GsiTurbo »

Looks good!!! Have u sorted the drivability issues??
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