Recovery from broken timming belt

[gudolegeorgiaboy]

This forum was very helpful to me in repairing a 1.6 Lanos, I fiquer I should give some info back that may be useful to someone else. A couple of months ago a friend of my sons had his timming belt break on his 2001 Lanos. After getting some repair estimates he decided that the cost of having it repaired was about what the blue book value of it was. He ask my son if he wanted it fo a couple of days of his labor. My son called me and ask if I would like to work on it. I said why not. We had it towed here and took the head off with the intake and exhoust manifold attached. We attached it to a engine stand. We found four severly bent exhoust valves, although a few more had been hitting the pistons. We also discovered that you cant get the water pump pully compleatly off without removing the engine. We just let it hang there after taking out the bolts. We found that the lifters wouldn't pump up so we took them apart and cleaned them, then they pumped up. We decided to purchase new ones tho since we didn't know if the tiny ring keepers were seated back where they should go. To purchase parts we went to the local Chevy dealer. The parts guy didn't know if it was the same engine as the Aveo and told me that if I ordered them for a Aveo I would have to pay for them in advance and there would be no refunds. We paid for them and when they came in he was amazed that they were in Daewoo boxes. The parts, four valves and 16 lifters and some gaskets. head gasket and seels and belt tensioner and pully and head bolts and timming belt cost $501.44. To get the valves out we made a valve spring compressor by drilling two holes in a piece of flat stock and running two of the old head bolts up threw the head in the bolt holes ajacent to each set of valve, we bent a smaller piece of flat stock into a enlongated C and put it on top of the springs. We then took a large screw driver and pried down. The keepers came out easily althouth it is a little harder to get them back in. I have several valve spring compressors but none of them would fit that haed. We did a pop test on the valve guides and found all but two to pass, after aplying some oil to the stems those passed also.
We began to assemble the head. We hand lapped the valves. Droped in the new lifters after a good coating of oil and put the cams back and stuck the head back on the block with the manifolds still intack. Everything was cleaned first. We began to install the new timming belt. We found that had to leave the bolts out of the power stearing pump to get to the third water pump allen bolt. We didn't know where we could get a 42mm open end wrench so we used a thin pair of chanel lock pliars to turn the water pump to adjust the timming belt tension. These pliers fit perfectly after taking off the alternator mount and the pump was easy to turn with them as they had the perfect angle to get a good grip. Before putting the timming belt colver back I drilled some vent holes into the top cover as I demised that it is a little over engineered and is so tight it doesn't allow for any heat dissipation. The old belt seemed to have slowly cooked in there. I was also amazed at the nominal ware on this engine with 62.000 miles on it..
Once all back together we left the spark plugs out turned the engine over for 15 seconds to prime it and get the oil flowing then we put the plugs back in, it cranked on the first try and after a few minutes the oil began to get to the head and the engine smoothed out and began to run really well.
I hope this rendition can be of help to someone in this forum as the forum has been so helpful to us.

[MMamdouh]

i appreciate your valuable feedback... it is now copied to the timing belt how to topic.

MMamdouh