Problem with nubira

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gazza_uk
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Problem with nubira

Post by gazza_uk »

we changed the head, we have now what i think is low fuel pressure its not firing on cylinders 1 and 4.compression is good.changed all leads,sparks,ignition pack.

cel is on.

any ideas???
greatiliad
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Post by greatiliad »

how about the fuel injector?
does it work?
MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

cyl. 1 and 4 are on the same half of the coil pack... are you sure the coil pack is in good condition? i know you replaced it recently but you know... shit happens.

check the signal wires to the coil pack... if the A side gets no signal to fire you will not get a spark @ cyl. 1 and 4 for sure.

swap injectors 1 & 4 with 2 & 3 and see where the misfire will go, if it stayed the same then the injectors are OK but if the misfire went to 2 & 3 then the injectors are bad.

scan the car and get the DTC... it will help diagnose the issue.

MMamdouh
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Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

On earlier Nubira injectors are coupled 1-4 & 2-3. My '00 Nubira is so. Maybe you have a single wiring problem.
Get the error code. If there is a ALDL connector you can easely scan it yourself.

Daniel
gazza_uk
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Post by gazza_uk »

Could you please tell me how to scan it my self?

Cheers
Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

First I must say that doing the following is at your own risks. I don't take any responsability for that.

You must be sure that you car is ALDL compliant not OBD2. If you find somewhere (under hood, behind kik panel, near diag connector, on papers,...) a sticker saying OBD2 compliant STOP HERE and buy a scantool.

The crude method to get the error code on ALDL connector is to short pin 5 & 6 if like on my '00 Nubira. See pic.

Short pins 5 & 6.
Key to ON. (don't start engine!)
Then begins a repetitive sequence of flashing CEL.
3 x code 12: - --, - --, - --.
Then 3 x first error code if any.
Then other codes.
And 3 x code 12 ending sequence.

Note the code(s), turn key OFF, remove shorting wire.Image

Other good readings are http://www.aldlcable.com/ http://www.s10blazers.com/service_engine_soon.htm http://astra.autokacik.pl/download/aldl.pdf .

Daniel
gazza_uk
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Post by gazza_uk »

just taken it to a garage to get fault read but he couldnt read it.it just came up running.

so he suggested it can only be now crankshaft sensor or my ecu is talking rubbish.

as he has a tool to open up the injectors manually while running and sounded perfect.when he opened 1 and 4.


so off i go in search on sensor :roll:
Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

Is your CEL off now?

Daniel
gazza_uk
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Post by gazza_uk »

it normally comes on when engine is under load or throttle totally open.

i got crankshaft sensor and its not that.

so now all possible problems must be my ecu has been fried.

there is definitly no power to injectors 1 and 4 had this confirmed by someone else today but they did say that all 4 injectors are meant to fire at the same time.

can someone confirm this
Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

What is your car model year?
Did you find the diagnostic connector? Can you post a pic of it or describe the shape and pins location?
Was the garage a Daewoo garage? If he wasn't able to read the code with the CEL ON maybe he had not the correct tool.

On prior engines injectors are fired 1&4 then 2&3.
Image


On newer engines injectors are fired separately.
Image

Check voltage to injectors connectors 1&4 relative to ground, key ON. You must read approx 12volts.
The ECU acts like a switch to put one side of injectors to ground and you must have always 12 volts on other side.


Daniel
Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

What is your car model year?
Did you find the diagnostic connector? Can you post a pic of it or describe the shape and pins location?
Was the garage a Daewoo garage? If he wasn't able to read the code with the CEL ON maybe he had not the correct tool.

On prior engines injectors are fired 1&4 then 2&3.
Image


On newer engines injectors are fired separately.
Image

Check voltage to injectors connectors 1&4 relative to ground, key ON. You must read approx 12volts.
The ECU acts like a switch to put one side of injectors to ground and you must have always 12 volts on other side.


Daniel
gazza_uk
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Post by gazza_uk »

Hi Again,
No it wasnt a daewoo garage it was a local one..but he did say that these type of ecu's run on 1&4 and 2&3(which we know anyway) and has 2 diodes in the ecu one for 1&4 and one for 2&3 hence why i dont have anything on 1&4 the reason why he said was so cars can get home if 1 goes wrong..

Mine is a 1999 1.6 dohc nubira



Update: Im 99.9% sure ive figured it out.im positive now its the ecu i took off the cables to injectors 2 and 3 stretched them over to 1 and 4 and the car started fine.left of 2 and 3 and reconnected the cables to 1 and 4 tried to start and it wouldnt.

so ecu is the cause think diode has gone for 1 and 4

found another ecu but does anyone know how to bypass the immobiliser :roll: :roll: :roll:
Last edited by gazza_uk on Thu Jul 27, 2006 9:37 am, edited 1 time in total.
Daniel
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Post by Daniel »

gazza_uk wrote:Hi Again,
No it wasnt a daewoo garage it was a local one..but he did say that these type of ecu's run on 1&4 and 2&3(which we know anyway) and has 2 diodes in the ecu one for 1&4 and one for 2&3 hence why i dont have anything on 1&4 the reason why he said was so cars can get home if 1 goes wrong..

Mine is a 1999 1.6 dohc nubira

>So I think it is ALDL. Try to read the code if the battery wasn't disconnected.



Update: Im 99.9% sure ive figured it out.im positive now its the ecu i took off the cables to injectors 2 and 3 stretched them over to 1 and 4 and the car started fine.left of 2 and 3 and reconnected the cables to 1 and 4 tried to start and it wouldnt.

>Measure voltage at pin 1 of all injector's connectors.

so ecu is the cause think diode has gone for 1 and 4

>Is replacing diode (I mean transistor) a job you can do?

found another ecu but does anyone know how to bypass the immobiliser :roll: :roll: :roll:
>I'm afraid you need the "official" tool :cry: .
gazza_uk
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Post by gazza_uk »

Ok...

Heres another one for you...

This ecu that i have found is from a 98 car(mines 99) the service numbers are the same on on the top but non of the other numbers match...The long one with the bar code matches untill about half way then changes ...

Now the question is..

If i changed over the ignition and took the key from the other car would this start my car??

Cheers

Gary
gazza_uk
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Post by gazza_uk »

Thought id post this up.

a circuit board designer friend of mine designed this for me.im going to try it out later.

if you try it i hold no responability for any damage caused.

its a circuit to make all 4 injectors work at the same time instead of it splitting them into 2 lots.

so if 1 set of injectors fail (like me :roll: :roll: ) you can fix your car cheap!!! i know in my diagram it says maplins but most electric compont store will sell them

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