Lanos 1.5 SOHC deassembly

nefary · Post by **nefary** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 9:44 pm

I have trouble with my 1.5 L engine- I think it is caused by a cylender head- as a mechanic said- So I had to open the engine to replace the diffective part

I decided to do the job my self . So i prepared my garage to the job . I took off the engine from its place . I printed the avaliable pages about the engine assembly in my manual- I have many manuals but most of them in czech, Bad luck but what can i do!!!- the engine now on a table away from the car- I decide also to make a full service to the engine- so I strated the job by remove the cam shaft cover , remove timing built ,tensioners and other parts. I reached to a point that I need to remove the cam shaft . I must firstly -as manual said- remove the ignition coil . I have a bad screw in this point.

I stopped at this point today. I will start tomorrow. I want to know your opinion about the next steps to complete the job . Is it easy to remove the Cam Shaft????

a.k.n

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 11:04 pm

as a rule removing anything is much much easyer than putting it back so you won't have a problem in doing so... the real problems might occure during reassebly.

needless to say you need a shit load of gaskets to replace the old ones you have, using old gaskets is never a good thing to do.

BTW: what are you trying to replace here that requires removing the whole engine??

good luck with your task

MMamdouh

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Fri Jun 10, 2005 11:22 pm

BTW if you want to work with the head then why you wan't to remove the cam shaft?? just remove the assembly contaning the sahft as one part then you will be able to work on the head, valves and all the other stuff without removing the shaft.

see here the cam shaft housing is the old dark part... you can remove that block as a whole and then the head will be free to work on it.

now here you see the head with all the valves... ready for you to get busy, i know this is not out exact engine but basicly it is the same layout as our 1.5 SOHC, i know that as i saw many gutted engines at my mechanic's shop.

also my mechanic never takes off the intake or exhaust manifolds off the head... it saves time and gaskets.

MMamdouh

tango · Post by **tango** » Sat Jun 11, 2005 1:59 am

I am doing the same thing right now. If you are only changing the cylinder head then really you didn't need to remove then engine from the car. Seeing that you already did that let's answer your question.

First, let's understand that our engines (SOHC) actually have a two-piece head. There's the cam-box (that has the camshaft) and the the valve-box (that houses the valves and springs). The 10 cylinder head bolts hold both parts to the block. I would advise that you remove the camshaft sprocket before you undo the head bolts. Once you undo that, you can remove the cam box. Undo the ignition coil next. On the ignition coil side of the camshaft you will see two hex-head bolts holding a thrust plate. This thrust plate actually keeps the camshaft in place. Undo both bolts (mark which side of the flex plate was facing the camshaft), and remove the thrust plate. Carefully and slowly remove the camshaft. Pull it out with one hand and support the camshaft with your other hand as you slide it from journal to journal. That's all you need to remove the camshaft. Easy.

NOTE: Be sure your hands are as clean as possible. Wash your hands and oil them lightly (spray some WD40 or something similar). Acids from sweaty hands can cause corrosion later. Dirty hands may have little bits of metal on them that can scratch the camshaft surfaces.

nefary · Post by **nefary** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:28 am

Hi all,

sorry for stop post to the forum . but I have a malfunction PC so I took some time to replace the damaged part

I continue my work on the engine . I got much plastic bags with labels for each part (screws , bolts & small parts) . I followed the diagrams in the manual . I reomevd first the cam cover, the cam shaft block , the valves block & now I can see the pistons.

When I removed the valves block I saw much amount of burned oil in the 1st cylinder. this burned oil is spreaded to the intake . so I had to remove the intake from the valves bloc . the valves look fine but I saw black smoke condenced on the 1st cylinder's wall . I have photos for that but they were taken from a mobile device . so bad quality . but this is what I have .

see the pictures & tell me what do you think the proplem is?

I think it is a bad piston rings. I will continue the job tomorrow by remove the pistons & see if there are bad gaskets or what

_____________________________________________
my car

start the job by removing cam cover

oil on intake

valves

a.k.n

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:51 am

intakes are not crystal clean after beeing used... normally you will find dirt, smog, oily stains and all sorts of $hit in them so it doesn't mean you have a faulty piston ring.

burned oil will condense on the walls of the exhaust system and the more you go to the back of the system (where it is much cooler) it will be more obvious.

also burned oil will be dumped to the exhaust manifold during the exhaust stroke and even if some were left in the combustion chamber, it won't have a chance to reach the intake as the air flow is going from the intake to the combustion chamber opposing any attept from the burned oil to go to the intake.

that oil could be condensed oil vapor from the crank case breather... the oil vapor is heavy and will tend to condense in the first low point it comes accross... which is intake pipe no.1.

to test piston rings you can take dry compression test results and compare them to wet compression test (wet is when you squirt oil ithrough the spark plug hole so it can make much tighter sealing for the chamber), if results are dramatically different (or non consistan accross pistons in the dry test) then you got rings and/or piston problems... since you aready removed your engine head it is too late for that.

you can also check for piston/chaber wall clearance with a feeler... unfortunatly i don't know the correct clearance that you should have to judge the engine condition.

MMamdouh

tango · Post by **tango** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 4:11 am

I agree with Mo...

If you have bad piston rings you would not normally find oil in the intake as a result. Oil in the intake usually comes from the breather hose. But Mohamed. Take a look at the pic. There are not four but FIVE ports there! Four round and the fifth square. What's the square one for?

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 12:27 pm

no idea whatsoever... i noticed it too and i will check it on my car, will post my feedback within the few comming hours.

MMamdouh

Post by **Efratech** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 1:30 pm

that's a coolant line.

are you sure that your headgasket is ok?

tango · Post by **tango** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 2:30 pm

Thanks Efrain....what's up by the way? Todo bien?

It looks to me as if he had a blown intake manifold gasket in this area, perhaps caused bo corrosion. If the manifold is indeed corroded you'll need to have that repaired before you refit it.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Wed Jun 15, 2005 2:45 pm

Efrain A. wrote:that's a coolant line.

are you sure that your headgasket is ok?

yes indeed its a coolant line, their is a rubber hose in the back of that port going to the main coolant pipe at the back of the engine.

also their is a sensor on top of that port... kinda temp. sensor or so.

in that case then that contamination got nothing to do with faulty piston rings, its more like a leak through the gasket.

MMamdouh

nefary · Post by **nefary** » Thu Jun 16, 2005 7:41 pm

finaly I found the bad part
it is the 1st piston ring. it is in bad condition and made the piston it self rough. I took the piston to a mechanic to confirm my opinion . and he told me that it is right. so I went to buy a new piston - because the old piston wont work good anymore.
I will start assembling the engine from tomorrow

thanks to all who tried to help me
a.k.n

ubuyau · Post by **ubuyau** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 9:39 am

Having read this and the other posts about porting and stuff i've thought i may as well give it a go. Im replacing all my cooling system hoses and ill be removing the intake manifold to get to some of the hoses just to make it easier (im arranging new gaskets) and thought about cleaning out the intake manifold and gasket matching the intake manifold (1.5 SOHC).

Two questions - what to use to clean out the intake manifold with (im sure there'll be oil residue and all sorts of crap in there from years of faithful service)? Will WD40 or carb cleaner and a toothbrush cut it?

Also is there much meat to take out of the lanos intake manifold ports? or does it just need a smoothing with a dremel and the correct bits? what about between the intake manifold and the throttle body? I know it'll make close to bugger all difference but where in the power band am i likely to notice any changes if at all (remember the car is turbo too - i know ill probably notice most difference from cleaning out the oil residue

)

--Tim

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 10:49 am

ubuyau wrote: what to use to clean out the intake manifold with (im sure there'll be oil residue and all sorts of crap in there from years of faithful service)? Will WD40 or carb cleaner and a toothbrush cut it?
--Tim

yeah... WD-40 is what i always use... if things are too stubborn ( and i don't think they will be) you can use karosin for desolving the deposits, wash the whole thing with with gasolin to remove all the dirt and leave the intake crystal clean. and a from a guy who did this before... you will feel a difference for sure.

MMamdouh