Car Croaked, HELP!

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 11:40 pm

Today, I drove the car for about an hour, parked in front of work and I go to start it again, and dead. Has battery and fuel pressure, spark too. When I turn the key it simply makes a little "CLICK" and nothing happens. Checked timing belt and it is tight with no cracks or sheared teeth. I attempted to push start it but afterwords, not even a "CLICK" was heard. I'm thinking it is a starter or MAP sensor as the alternator was checked to be OK. It is going to the mechanic's with my Dad now. Does anyone have any ideas, I'm getting sick of this car!

cpd · Post by **cpd** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 11:44 pm

I had a similar problem; try shorting the starter motor with your wheel-brace or something. I had it die on me in the middle of work (delivery).

Hope that helps.

tango · Post by **tango** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 12:14 am

That sounds liek the starter motor solenoid going bad. Had the same thing happen to my Swift. Easy fix actually.

TheGreatAndPowerfulOz · Mon Aug 22, 2005 12:59 am

My Beetle used to have that problem all the time.

LOL - Until I could get a new starter, I used to bang on the solinoid with a piece of wood and a hammer while someone else turned the key!!

GsiTurbo · Post by **GsiTurbo** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 2:27 am

Before you start doing an extensive repais, start with installing new battery terminals, ensuring your ground wires are in good contact, and check the condition of the power wire going to the starter. I had a similar problem once before, and the problem was poor connections to the starter.

Tom

daewooluvr · Post by **daewooluvr** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 4:22 am

360 Dynamics wrote:Before you start doing an extensive repais, start with installing new battery terminals, ensuring your ground wires are in good contact, and check the condition of the power wire going to the starter. I had a similar problem once before, and the problem was poor connections to the starter.

Tom

Same here...

Post by **PrecisionBoost** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 6:41 pm

If in doubt beat the engine repeatedly with a hammer

Easiest way to check it it's the connections is to jumpstart the vehicle with a different battery.

My experience with bad connections is that it will make a click but won't start..... so I'm leaning towards the starter or starter solinoid as well.

daewooluvr · Post by **daewooluvr** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 7:09 pm

My problem was more difficult than that. The engine would actually turn over but since the connection wasn't good it wouldn't fire up.

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 8:49 pm

Ok, mechanic called back and it is official, the starter has gone bad. Which isn't surprising with 192,000 miles and at least 50,000 or more Key "START" cycles. When I asked if it was just the solenoid, he said no, that the entire starter itself was shot. OK, I'm just glad it ain't anything more. I hate it when anyone besides me tinkers with my engine, but I am now stuck because the car is at his shop.

Well, now comes the momentus task of getting another one in a week. There are no Lanoses in the local junkyards, and starter from the Nubira/Leganza won't fit.

My options include:

1. New starter $230
2. Aveo Starter $199 but I'm not sure it fits.
3. Used starter $? car-parts.com isn't that good at getting back to me.

360Dynamics, can you send me a quote on a 1.6L Lanos starter with shipping to 33764 in FL? I'd like to see some of the prices.

Thanks for all the feedback guys.

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 9:07 pm

Ok, I found a bunch of starters around the Tampa Bay Area ranging from $25-$55. I also have the option of taking the starter off of the car and taking it to a guy who rebuilds them for $60.

Now, the major deal is that I hit a little snag. http://www.car-parts.com gives me two options for the starter, 1.4KW or 1.2KW. I have called my mechanic and he has no clue. I surmise that it might be something with the type of transmission in the car. I have an automatic transmission so I assume that it might need more power so that it might need the 1.4KW starter but I am only like 5% sure of this.

Does anyone know if I need a 1.4 or 1.2 KW starter?

My car: 1999 Daewoo Lanos, 1.6L MPFI D-TEC DOHC 16V, GM 4T40E Automatic Transmission, ABS, all power. Any help?

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:08 pm

well... if you got no confirmation on which one to use then get the 1.4 starter as it won't hurt you to do that (it will hurt your bank account though

)

if you got the 1.2 and you were supposed to get the 1.4 then you will fry it in short time.

MMamdouh

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 10:39 pm

Yeah, thats what I was figuring on. I assume it would be bad if I went from 1.4 to 1.2 because that would be weak and wouldn't respond to the wiring. Not the other way around

Well, Update:

Took starter off of car, which was a pain in the butt but I did it. Starter had a distinct rattle in it so it definately wasn't the solenoid but actual gearing(or something) that broke in the starter and was rattling around. I believe that solves the rattle during idle. Well, I took the old starter to my "friend" in St. Petersburg who said he had 2 for the Lanos, but they were both still on the cars. One was 1.2 and the other 1.4 so he would compare the two with the one I brought to see the one I need. So, tomorrow he'll call me back early and I'll go pick up the right one. Then, off to installation! So, my Lanos is back with me (knock on wood and pray) on late Wednesday or Thursday. Wow, it really shows how much you like your car after you don't see it for 2 days and it doesn't work when you do see it. I'm an addict!

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 2:28 am

Well, starter switched out and car is working excellently I'm happy to report. At $50.00 for the starter and $180 for labor, I'm fairly content with the cost, considering that my mechanic friend worked for something like 5 hours total taking it off and putting the new one on.

However, since my mechanic hates my car and Daewoos and Korean cars in general, he didn't have very nice things to say.

.

1. I need to change out all my engine/transmission mounts, but @ 192,000 miles it makes sense. It also accounts for the occasional jerking and clunking when car goes in reverse.

2. I need a new CV joint as mine is ruined (no surprise here either)

3. I need new vacuum hoses because the silicone ones I put in my car tend to get hot and then collapse under vacuum.

4. I need to undo my TB coolant bypass as he said it was dangerous to have it on my car.

Well, there goes another few hundred USD. I guess I can do most of this myself, but since it is too damn hot to work outside, I guess I'll wait 'till late fall or winter.

And then, to top it all off, I get home and turn my steering wheel to park, and all of a sudden my car starts jerking and the RPM starts getting jumpy with the exhaust spewing out smoke. Terrified, I automatically assume another coil, but it luckily turned out to be just a loose plug.

MMamdouh · Post by **MMamdouh** » Thu Aug 25, 2005 6:55 pm

BosnianLanos wrote: 4. I need to undo my TB coolant bypass as he said it was dangerous to have it on my car.

i see that rather unrealistic

MMamdouh

BosnianLanos · Post by **BosnianLanos** » Fri Aug 26, 2005 12:17 am

Well, I go to turn on the car today, and low and behold... car starts jerking and sputtering again.

So, I pop the hood to push the plug wire back in and low and behold, its fine.

Well, I get a little nervous and start to look around the engine and... My "brilliant" mechanic, with all his years of experience, who insulted my car, Daewoos, Korean cars and pretty much all of the modifications I've done PUT ALL OF MY VACUUM HOSES BACK IN THE WRONG FRIGGIN' ORDER!!!!!!

The VGIS valve, which has zero vacuum in idle was connected to the MAP sensor!, and everything else was fucked up. After reconnecting everything, the car was back to running smoothly @ 1200 RPM, which also means he didn't do the idle learn procedure.

Well, this guy was good but I guess I'm done with him. It doesn't take a lot for a person to lose my trust.

And also, regarding silicone vacuum hoses (That I had on my car). The Lanos has vacuum that is so strong that it can collapse the aftermarket dress up silicone vacuum hoses and effectively cut off whatever it was connected to. I simply sleeved the OEM hoses in the new silicone hoses and solved the problem.

@mmamdouh: The mechanic's reasoning for the TB bypass being a bad idea is that the TB can get so hot that it can get the plastic on the intake hot enough to "catch fire". I suppose it makes sense. I did the bypass and notice zero difference. The TB is as hot if not hotter now than it was back when it was stock. If you think about it, the intake is connected directly to the head and gets super hot, which gets super hot and in turn makes the TB super hot. I think the TB coolant hoses have the opposite effect than what we thought. I think they are there to in fact help cool the TB, not heat it up. It may hurt during the initial few minutes, but after a while, I'm sure the relitively "cool" coolant would help to keep the TB cooler.

Well, car problems are solved, now I have to wait for another hurricane!