bmiester wrote:Yes, that is the estimates I was given. the soft turbo kit got up to 170hp, and the turbo plus close to 200 hp with stock internals.
I would think they would be loosing some money not selling overseas. I would say there is a pretty big demand for a kit over here in the US. But it is their shop...
Maximus wrote:Those kits give about 160-170 HP for 1.6 16V
Daewooluvr when you have a turbo you can use it every time you want to, as to nitrous noup, the fun last only coupe of seconds
I think you're numbers are a little off there. at 5-6psi you only get approximately 40% gain in hp. Even with intake and exhaust you're probably still only putting 115hp at the crank. So that means with the turbo kit you're putting 161 to the crank, which is only approximately 134 to the wheels (assuming the standard 17% drivetrain loss). Still kinda weak for spending over $2K USD. And the boost only lasts as long as your at peak which all depends on the turbo, so no, it's not on all the time.
With a zex kit and assuming the same 115hp at the crank, with the zex kit you're putting 170 at the crank, and 141 at the wheels for around $500 USD.
The only way that the turbo set up is benificial is if you're running higher boost, which means replacing stock internals, which means much much more cash.
Nitrous is raising engine temp. and the torque is incrising drasticly, so 55 HP is to much IMO, 35 shot would be ideal.
As to turbo you didn't understand me, if you were using nitrous as much as turbo your engine would be dead in one month. Still nitrous is not that cheep couse you have to refill the bottle
bmiester wrote:Yes, that is the estimates I was given. the soft turbo kit got up to 170hp, and the turbo plus close to 200 hp with stock internals.
I would think they would be loosing some money not selling overseas. I would say there is a pretty big demand for a kit over here in the US. But it is their shop...
bmiester try to Email them
I would not risk 200 HP with stock internals...
The internals were fine, it was the head that was giving grabwoski problems. So he recommends redoing the head with more durable valves.
With a zex kit and assuming the same 115hp at the crank, with the zex kit you're putting 170 at the crank, and 141 at the wheels for around $500 USD.
The only way that the turbo set up is benificial is if you're running higher boost, which means replacing stock internals, which means much much more cash.[/quote]
$500 sounds good..........until I start thinking of my driving habits. Then a turbo seems more senseable. I'd be replacing the NOS bottle every two weeks.
Many people on other Forums have argued NOS vs Turbo and what it comes down to is the fact that a turbo builds power slower than NOS and doesn't "shock" the engine with instant power like NOS.
It was best described as follows.... Take a branch off the tree and bend it slowly to the point you think it's about to break...measure the smallest radius you can make....then try to take the branch to the same radius as quick as you can....the branch will break 99% of the time well before you hit the same radius you got when you applied the force slowly.
If the engine can handle 170hp at the crank on NOS there is no reason why you couldn't hit 170hp with a turbo.
All you do is install a switch to change the pressure from a nice easy 5 psi (34% increase) to a bone crunching 15psi (102%)
So hitting the 15psi button for a short period of time shouldn't be any more harmfull than hitting the nitrous. (the question is if you can fight the urge to keep it on 15psi all the time)
The 2.0L C20LET I'm working on for my Lanos is the exact same engine family as the 1.6 / 1.5 and I know for a fact the steel block is good for more than 15psi (all the time)...some guys are well over 20psi with stock internals. (other than some ARP bolts....the con rod bolt tend to break easy)
Given the C20LET has the advantage of some forged internals and sodium cooled valves the 1.6L (A16DMS) probably couldn't run 15psi all the time but my guess would be more like 8psi constant pressure as long as a decent intercooler was used.
8psi would be about a 54% increase in power (assuming the use of an intercooler) which would make the Lanos lots of fun.
I agree, your cheaper nos systems are a "shock" however if you get a little more expensive one you can dial in how much at what rpm you want delivered so you can dial in a smoother boost.
Where did you get the C20LET engine? Does canada have any opel or vauxhaul cars sold there?
I would really love to get my hands on an F28 6sp.
The 2.0L C20LET I'm working on for my Lanos is the exact same engine family as the 1.6 / 1.5 and I know for a fact the steel block is good for more than 15psi (all the time)...some guys are well over 20psi with stock internals. (other than some ARP bolts....the con rod bolt tend to break easy)
the C20 series is called "big block" in the UK, like the 2.0 16v nubi is a bigger, stronger engine than the C16 series (A16DMS, 1.5, 1.6) wich is called "small block" its a bit weaker 'cos is an smaller engine, diferent internals, i really dont know if the small block (steel block) can handle 15 psi on stock internals no matter if this is only for a "moment"...
again... great post Erfinder
'88 Pontiac Lemans GTE - 2.0 16v XE - fully programable ECU, Custom made intake manifold and other bits.
146.6WHP/135lb.ft - 14.81@94mph
The engine I have is the C20E (2.0L turbo) found in the late 80's Pontiac Sunbird. (165hp 175lb-ft at crank stock)
I was getting a little of myself calling it a C20LET .... I plan on importing the 16V head (C20E is only an 8V) and the associated internals (forged) to convert it into a C20LET.
I haven't found any decent Opel/Vauxhall/Holden guys here in Canada but I deal with suppliers in Belgium and Germany all the time so it shouldn't be too hard to import the parts I need.
As far as the C20 / A16 / A15 series.... I was told that they are all the same "big block" design built by Holden. ( the small block starts at the 1.4L)
I will have to try and find the info on this...got it from an engine supplier in Korea.
They seem to have all the same casting designs and all three are interchangeable.
They have the same tranny mounts and engine mounts (thus the 2.0L turbo swap into my Lanos)
I like the C20XE as well but the fact that the C20E (sunbird) is easy to get in Canada makes it my number one choice.
I only payed about $900 US for the entire car... I plan to part it out and make most of my money back.
Great thing is that I got everything I need for the swap.... motor/wiring/ECU and the car was running when I bought it (210,000km but still very strong)
Oh ya.... I'd love an F28 6spd.....that is on my wish list after my stage1 swap (stage 2 is more power and a standalone FMU to allow more boost)
It would be great to use the AWD F28 and put the power to all four corners of the Lanos.
I think for now I'm going to get an F20 and throw in a Quaife LSD... then at least I won't have to worry about the tranny self destructing.
About the Nitrous... I guess if your using a computer controlled delivery system it would be better but I still like the flexibility of a turbo system.
I have other ideas that involve certain secret "oxidizer" I plan on trying on my car in stage2 of my Lanos upgrades.
This oxidizer runs cooler than Nitrous and I belive that it could be used continuosly if required ( this oxidizer helps burn more fuel like nitrous but part of it's molecule breaks up during combustion and helps cool the cylinder and head during the exhaust stroke)
Thus it helps eliminate detonation by reducing operating temperatures even with elevated fuel/air amounts.
It's kinda secret as nobody in the automotive industry has ever used it (to my knowledge at this point)
Needless to say I'm eager to try and work with it and possibly start manufacturing a "next generation" oxidizer system.
But then again who knows...it might not work in such a small displacement engine (that's a hint....it's been used in engines much much much larger than an automobile engine)
2.500 $