Post your Oil...

N/A tech, Cold Air Intakes, Spark Plugs/wires, Cat backs, Exhaust...etc

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MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

lanos2001 wrote:well i use 5w30(i think) mobile one synthetic. but on a related subject. i've had a slow leak from my drain plug and its the gasket thats doing it. my friend that works at walmart that changed my oil put in a little cheapo walmart one that is like cloth or something like that and it still leaks. he was talking aout getting a metal one so it doesn't do that. anyone know where i could get one? i tried autozone but they had the same cheapo stuff.
for the drain plug i use a copper gasket which is like a really thin washer... copper is soft enough to work as a gasket and it is working fine for me, as every other gasket it can only be used once.

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genie47
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Post by genie47 »

lanos2001 wrote:he was talking aout getting a metal one so it doesn't do that. anyone know where i could get one? i tried autozone but they had the same cheapo stuff.
Why don't you get the Fumoto oil drain valve at http://www.fumotovalve.com

I use the F106 w/o nipple. With a flick of a switch I drain oil. No need for washers and no fear of worn threads because you don't have a torque wrench. The valve comes with a fiber gasket. It will be the only gasket you will ever use. :)
TheGreatAndPowerfulOz
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Post by TheGreatAndPowerfulOz »

I can't see inside the sump of my car? What do you think I have a lighted flexable inspection scope for? A colonoscopy? LOL (would you like to try that? LOL)
I can check inside my engine when the oil is out and there is no buildup.

Say what you want about PTFE, but from many years of use, I know what I have seen and what it has done for many of my cars. I also know that I have had several engines exceed 200,000, even 300,000 miles with no rebuilds and remain with high compression, no leaking or burning oil.
Leaking from old gaskets can not be avoided, but, as you know, gaskets can be changed.

There is no build up or sludge in the sump of my Lanos or Leganza, and unless you have personally inspected my engine, please don't try tell me something that I have personally seen within the engines of my cars.

Do not assume that I will not see the inside of my engines. You do not know how many decades I have been preforming engine work, full engine rebuilds, full body restoration or much else about me for that matter.
With under 30 posts, you should get to know some of the members on here before you start telling people what they do or do not know.


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genie47
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Post by genie47 »

OK its your money. I have no right to tell you how you should spend your money. :oops:

It is interesting however that you use a scope to see. I measure oil performance through analysis. Used an oil for the wrong application and that damn near killed the oil and the engine. Got to know the engine's behaviour a little better too.
asam
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Post by asam »

Im gonna have to agree with OZ on this. Teflon (PTFE) has shown alot of success in tests. However from my experience I prefer prolong. Next time you post proof make sure you know what you are talking about. The guy who did the test was using leaded fuel. Wonder why he had bad readings. Also who would warrenty your engine if their product sucked? I have also used the PTFE stuff and it seemed to work well.
genie47
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Post by genie47 »

I don't know about how these tests are conducted but my understanding is that teflon in these additives are solid pellets. You got to have it adhere to the point of contact to be effective in lubrication. Teflon however does not have affinity for metallic surfaces. This is where it doesn't make sense to me as a lube aid. Most of it is suspended in the oil. This situation is not your typical lube aid spay where you spray some teflon dispersion on some thread and allow the solvent to evaporate leaving a film of teflon as lube.

Another reason is that they are denser. Teflon as a polymer is the densest hydrocarbon plastic. It would be very difficult to keep it dispersed as a suspension. They will finally rest in the sump.

There are better OTC additives out there as compared to teflon. As for Prolong, did you see the virgin analysis. What I don't understand is why are there other bits of metal in the formulation? I know the guy is using leaded fuel but the same argument can be said that if it is the leaded fuel that is causing the problem so with or without Prolong, things are still the same which could well mean that Prolong does not improve lubrication. If it makes anyone feel better to put it in together with the oil, I can't argue against that.
Efratech
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Post by Efratech »

I Just use what the factory recommends, the original OEM filter... :P
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MMamdouh
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Post by MMamdouh »

Efrain A. wrote:I Just use what the factory recommends, the original OEM filter... :P
me too... just on the last oil change i tried a MAHLE oil filter and so far it is working good.

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Post by Roadrunner 16V »

I use the Castrol TWS 10W60 for my C20LET engine. This oil was developed particularly for BMW M3, m5 and Porsche engines.
agentsmith
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Post by agentsmith »

i use mobile 1 15w50 full synthetic. my engine purrs. i wish i could make an audio clip of my car starting up and idling, then revvin. it sounds like new :oops:
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Roadrunner 16V
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Post by Roadrunner 16V »

This year I will use the Mobil1 5W50.
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