Yeah.
I'm thinking of going brand new z20let fuel rail with 3.3 bar fpr (46psi) as on the 2.0l engines, the fpr is the drop in type rather than the external type.
The 2.0l doesn't lag as bad as the 1.5l but i have exhaust and intake coming and more air = more fuel needed... Lol
Also, your description of roads is very British... Are you sure your location is South Wales rather than NSW
Been in Aus for 9 years+ now, but old habits die hard!!, 2223 is the post code without being too specific.
The Reg probably increases the horse power by about 4-ish, but the torque is amazing. Where on the F3 I used to sometimes run her to 3rd gear to get up there at 100kmh plus, I now, and this was yesterday, kept it in 5th, and she responded to giving it more throttle fed in, and it was a roll-on from 100kmh. got to top of the hill, in 5th, and she ran perfect .....with NO DOWN GEAR CHANGE!!.
The way I can describe it is... it seems like the engine capacity has been increased from 1.5 to 2.0, and thats the best way to describe it. Less shuffling of the gears at mid throttle range. Heaps more torque... period. Which Is what I'd expect with this kind od modification. AND..!!!, it will not change insurance, as nothing has really changed.
Whole new car to drive. So the other way is to say driveabilty is much, much improved. Pull on the flat is totally alien to me in this car, but it sure does now!
If I get chance, I will wang it on the Dyno at Pulse, when I get chance, but don't wait up. My prediction is mid-range torque has no longer that hole in it.
50psi base pressure, and then vacuum connect it, and it seems to love 43psi, which is what the injectors are rated at.
Damn, if i'd known about this mod, i might not have done the engine swap (which i'm yet to get engineered lol).
Yeah, im 2640/2630 depending on uni.
I'm keen on trying this even though it doesn't seem like such a problem (but more fuel would improve things when exhaust comes).
So Richie, you seem pretty experienced with making vehicles go, are you in the industry?
I sold my workshop on 26th January this year, which was another one of my business ventures.
I am a electrical and mechanical engineer by trade. It's in my blood so to speak.
I got here, and had the usual Toyota Bum, and it just was too placid for me... givn it was a heap of antiquated junk, but then, one day whilst rumaging around the car yards at Parramatta, spotted a Woo hidden over the back.... made an offer, and got it!!, and now on the 3rd one.
I know these engines etc from Europe where they are in Opels and Vauxhalls where one of the cars we had was a Vauxhall Astra GTE. We used to tool around with cars all the time there, always fixing and modifying. Best mods were port matching, or blue-printing. This always livened them up for us.
Had the 1.4 and 1.3 engines in other Vauxhall offerings too.... which funnily enough, are the same in the Woo's.
The fuelling on the Woo's is not the best shall we say, and yet the engine is bullet proof. The Girl loves her ride to work in the morning in the Woo now, as her complaint was it always felt a little under-powered, we addressed it for her, and off she goes. Trouble is, I can't get time or occasion to get some snaps of the set-up in there lately.... But I will.
The art of the game was to do this on a strict budget, and it is paying off now. Only issue I have is the throttle cable, it is worn out now, and really does need replacing. The mod has made throttle response instant now from idle, and the cable does not help if it jumps quick.
Actually am going on Walk-about to Europe in a few months, so am off to grab a few goodies from the SRi vauxhall which will be safely in the breakers now, given the corrosion to the body on them will have taken its toll.
The SRi was quite a weapon.... and the conversion should be easy. Cam and gear, ECU, injectors and poss T Body. I would like the perf Zorst Mani I have seen over there if I can dig one out.
Best thing to do is look at the fuelling with an LM1 or LM2 if possible, and you can see the fuelling is kept pretty stingy. We go for around 11.9:1, but thats pushing it hard, and running a lot of fuel through it. Most road cars seem to run better around the 12.6:1 ratio, but best nearer the 12 mark under acceleration. That was the bit I had to get into the engine, but maintain economy when it was up to speed.
I figured to use the mani vacuum, and enhance the fuelling a little. I am suprised that the pressure I can push the pump to is just over 60psi at the return though!!. I have a few Higher pressure pumps I want to get in there next from Seadoo's.
The pressure is something I want to investigate, or find out if this is the expected pressure of the OEM ones, which Iswapped out for a pattern one last year!
i was on the malpassi website and couldn't find the regulator you have... and i also found regular fuel pressure regulators and rising rate fuel pressure regulators... will i get the same results if i used a standard fuel pressure regulator as the one listed below instead of a RRFPR?
I want to do this mod also but I don't find a suitable adapter. I looked on Google but all I come across are adapters for Japanese cars like Honda,Toyota,Nissan and Mitsubishi. Does any of these fit the 1.5 Lanos?
Last edited by MaXiMiZoR on Fri Jul 22, 2011 3:19 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Daewoo Lanos 1.5i 2002
-Bosch Super 4 sparkplugs
-Shark Racing front strutbar
-Pipercross foam air filter
-Cold Air Intake MOD
-Grounding Kit
-Malpassi Rising Rate FPR
Last edited by MaXiMiZoR on Thu Jul 28, 2011 6:16 pm, edited 1 time in total.
Daewoo Lanos 1.5i 2002
-Bosch Super 4 sparkplugs
-Shark Racing front strutbar
-Pipercross foam air filter
-Cold Air Intake MOD
-Grounding Kit
-Malpassi Rising Rate FPR
I'm planning this mod on my Lanos 1.5 but since there is no suitable fuelrail adapter to be found for Lanos, I measured my original FPR and found a suitable adapter on Ebay. Still waiting for it to arrive and hope it will fit or requires minimal adjustments.
Original Fuel Pressure Regulator:
Fuel rail without FPR:
Original FPR adapter:
Measurements I made quickly:
Malpassi Rising Rate FPR (1:1.7), bought 2nd hand for 50€:
The hose is going to be connected to the adapter:
Suitable adapter = SRA01 (69014) for Nissan:
More photo's will arrive if progress is made
Daewoo Lanos 1.5i 2002
-Bosch Super 4 sparkplugs
-Shark Racing front strutbar
-Pipercross foam air filter
-Cold Air Intake MOD
-Grounding Kit
-Malpassi Rising Rate FPR
I'm sure a more accurate FPR has a fair amount of gains over the small OEM unit but one of your concerns with the vaccum. having vaccum pulled on the FRP and then pressure was, in theory, causing weak throttle responce because of a lack of pressure.I've been testing similar setups with the EOM FPR and found that not having the vaccum hooked up helped. but, now i've been considering hooking it back up and using a check valve on the line. the idea being that the check valve will keep the FRP from seeing vaccum but it could still see pressure and in this case still act as a rising-rate and still get the throttle resonce that you noticed in your early testing.
gse_turbo wrote:I'm sure a more accurate FPR has a fair amount of gains over the small OEM unit but one of your concerns with the vaccum. having vaccum pulled on the FRP and then pressure was, in theory, causing weak throttle responce because of a lack of pressure.I've been testing similar setups with the EOM FPR and found that not having the vaccum hooked up helped. but, now i've been considering hooking it back up and using a check valve on the line. the idea being that the check valve will keep the FRP from seeing vaccum but it could still see pressure and in this case still act as a rising-rate and still get the throttle resonce that you noticed in your early testing.
the check valve idea is for forced induction setup... right?
it would be that same either way. potentially higher pressure at idle and rising rate based on manifold pressures. the rise wouldn't be much in a non-turbo setup though. ..although, I suppose it would be more of a vaccum drop in an NA car rather than any type or pressure increase. ...so, having a check valve on the vaccum line to the FPR in an NA motor would probably be like not having the vaccum run to it at all. so yeah, pretty much turbo only in that case, unless I'm wrong.
